Pierre Sang was a finalist in France’s TV cooking competition “Top Chef,” yet there’s nothing pretentious or showy about this restaurant. The open kitchen does provide entertainment, as Sang’s chefs chop, sizzle, and steam all sorts of spice-infused delights that send fragrant scents wafting over the long, shared tables. Expect an inventive selection of Franco-Korean tapas made with whatever market-fresh ingredients have come in that week (though they’ll cater for allergies obviously; tell them as soon as you arrive). This might include a tender chicken and tarragon terrine, a crispy herring tempura, or spicy shrimp with gochujang (Asian chili sauce). Reserve in advance; it’s as popular as can be. If you can’t get in, Sang owns two other restaurants on rue Gambey (the street the restaurant looks out onto): On Gambey is a more upmarket version of “in Oberkampf” (menus cost 49€ to 88€), while Pierre Sang Express is a takeout bibimbap counter (from 12€).