What began as a pop-up at the height of the pandemic morphed into a full-fledged restaurant in 2021, when the owners had proof that New York diners would be willing go well beyond the pho and banh mi sandwiches that dominate the city’s other Vietnamese joints. Sure , those are served, and heck, they do half a dozen well-executed versions of each, but what’s exciting here are the specialties one rarely finds on this side of the Pacific, like Bánh Chưng Chiên, mung beans and either pork or mushrooms wrapped in glutinous rice and deep fried (a snacky treat); barbecued ground pork wrapped in betel leaf; and Bun Bò Bơ,  noodles topped with sizzling butter beef. The dining space is bright and cheery but small, so get prepared for a wait many nights.