For a good two decades, NYC has been obsessed with ramen and for good reason: many of the top Japanese ramen chains have opened outposts here (we cover some in this chapter). But now there’s a new noodle in town, and Raku’s udon is creating line-out-the-door excitement. Udon is thicker than ramen, with a pleasing springy gumminess to it. Here it’s served in a number of different preparations: in clear dashi broth with stacks of tempura, as part of a curry soup, in a tinglingly spicy thick udon broth, chilled with dipping sauce, and as a stir fry. There are add-ons to customize your bowling-ball-sized portion with, from grated yam or daikon to mochi to slices of prime beef or spicy pork, along with a long list of worthwhile appetizers and desserts. One note:  The line moves quite quickly, so don’t get discouraged (they take few reservations). It will also give you a preview of the very Japanese experience to come: the last time I was on this line, I was the only one speaking English.