Getting Off-Center: The Joys of Staying on the Edge of Town

Central is good. That's the assumption of many of the posters on the many travel bulletin boards I haunt: people want to stay in a place that's cheap, clean, and close to the center of town. But I disagree -- in many cities your travel experience will be richer and finer, if you stay in neighborhoods just off-center.

These non-central neighborhoods can provide a glimpse into how locals really live. They're full of charming pubs and restaurants inhabited by residents, not tourists. They've usually got gorgeous parks, and lower crime rates than the tourist centers. And depending on where you choose to stay, they can provide either a peaceful breather from the chaos of downtown, or put you a short stagger from the city's best nightlife.

The Central Rules

Wondering if you should try my off-center approach? Go down this checklist to see if your destination qualifies:

• Off-center cities must have great public transit systems. If you're only a 15-minute ride on a frequent subway train from the tourist heart of town, you get the best of both worlds.
  
• Off-center cities must have large, urbanized cores. New York, London and Paris are all pure city for miles and miles, so off-center neighborhoods are within walking distance and have a high density of services. In tiny Reykjavik, though, the off-center hotels are mostly in a bleak suburban expanse by a highway. Stick to the center for smaller cities.
  
• In many American cities, the center is irrelevant. Whirling in the widening gyre of suburban sprawl, cities like Dallas, Atlanta, Charlotte and Los Angeles have semi-conscious downtowns and vibrant peripheral neighborhoods.

Finding Your Center

So where are the best off-center neighborhoods?

In New York City, two very different choices are the Upper West Side and the East Village. A genteel but vibrant family-oriented neighborhood, sandwiched between two parks, home to Jerry Seinfeld, Woody Allen and tons of families, the Upper West Side is just a few minutes from Midtown and offers plenty of hotel choices. For instance, the Country Inn The City gives you the feel of a classic B&B, and The Lucerne transports you right back to the opening of the 20th Century.

The East Village and Lower East Side are the current hubs of young, hip Manhattan nightlife and dining. The Howard Johnson Express Inn is a surprisingly civilized choice, smack in the middle of the action.

In Amsterdam, the "Oud Zuid" quarter, just south of the museums and by the Vondelpark, gives you a place to escape to when the center of town becomes too loud, crowded and intense. Frommer's gives a wide range of hotels in the area; look for "Around Museumplein & Vondelpark" on our accommodations page for Amsterdam by clicking here.

In London, I've often enjoyed staying in Camden Town and Hampstead. Camden, home to one of London's largest open-air markets, is a hub for restaurants and live entertainment that isn't on many tourist itineraries. There aren't many real hotels in Camden, but several B&B services offer beds in the area, including The London Bed & Breakfast Agency (www.londonbb.com).

Topped by a huge, green forest park, Hampstead is one of London's most genteel neighborhoods, home to personalities as varied as the Romantic poet Keats and New Romantic musician Boy George. The La Gaffe hotel in Hampstead gives you a great feeling of the country in the city.

In Barcelona, I like to avoid the pickpocket chaos of the Ramblas for the more serene pleasures of the Gracia neighborhood, also known as "Barcelona's Greenwich Village." The Aparthotel Silver (www.hotelsilver.com) is an amazing deal, offering rooms with kitchenettes for a mere €80. If you're looking for other lodging, focus on the area between Avenida Diagonal and Via Augusta.

Where have you found great lodging outside the center of town? Tell us on our Lodging Message Boards.