What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Los Angeles

L.A. and Madonna have a lot in common -- they're always one step ahead of the trends. Trying to keep up with the constant changes in this amorphous metropolis is a full-time job, because what was in last year is most definitely out the next. But fear not, fellow adventurers, because I've crammed this new edition with dozens of new clubs, restaurants, hotels, special moments, and insider tips.

Accommodations

It seems like wherever you turn, L.A.'s hotels are upping the ante with stylish facelifts and new personalities. The most talked about newcomer is the Viceroy, 1819 Ocean Ave., (tel. 800/622-8711 or 310/260-7500; www.viceroysantamonica.com), located a short walk from the beach in Santa Monica. If you want to hobnob poolside with L.A.'s top agents, actors, and producers, you'll find them hunched over their laptops reviewing screenplays and looking very important.

Far less pretentious but more aesthetically pleasing is my favorite new L.A. hotel, The Mosaic, 25 S. Spalding Dr., (tel. 800/463-4466 or 310/278-0303; www.mosaichotel.com). Perfectly placed on the edge of a quiet Beverly Hills neighborhood just steps from the prime shopping scene, it's the most impressive boutique hotel in the city and the rates (for now) are very reasonable.

Although the Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., (tel. 800/950-7667 or 323/466-7000; www.hollywoodroosevelt.com) in the heart of Hollywood has been around since 1927, the new owners have pumped millions into updating this national landmark. The fusion of original craftsmanship with modern hotel luxuries has made the Roosevelt go from dated to desirable (and a great bargain until everyone catches on).

Dining

Apologies to all you sushi addicts for not including Hama Sushi, 213 Windward Ave. (tel. 310/396-8783), in previous editions. Dining at this Venice mainstay is a true high-energy sushi experience where the interactivity between the chefs and the clients is the main priority. You can't help but shout and sing with these nutty guys.

I'm also in trouble with L.A. foodies for not including the Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Rd., Calabasas. (tel. 818/222-3888), in the last edition. Think rustic, red meat, rich reds, and romance at this no-cellphone-service (egad!) hunting lodge hidden in the Malibu Hills.

You'll hear plenty of animated cellphone conversations on the fifth floor of the Barneys New York department store in Beverly Hills. The store's authentic -- and expensive -- New York deli, called Barney Greengrass, 9570 Wilshire Blvd., (tel. 310/777-5877), is teeming with power lunchers from the entertainment industry. Dine on chopped chicken liver sandwiches and Nova Scotia salmon scrambles on the outdoor terrace overlooking the city.

Everything Cuban is in these days, so it's no surprise that Paladar, 1651 Wilcox Ave, (tel. 323/465-7500), is one of Hollywood's most popular new restaurants. The Afro-Cuban-American menu -- grilled pork chop with mango/quince chutney and sweet potato mash -- is paired with a stylish decor that includes plaster-and-tobacco-leaf wallpaper.

Anything Indian is hip in Hollywood right now as well, particularly Tantra, 3705 W. Sunset Blvd. (tel. 323/663-8268), a new gym-sized Indian restaurant and nightclub in Silver Lake that's packed with ethnic swingers sipping Tears of Ganesha cocktails and watching Ballywood movies as DJs spin thumping jams.

And save a Sunday for the Gospel Brunch at the House of Blues, 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (tel. 323/848-5100). Groove with inspiring gospel groups while piling heaping plates of all-you-can-eat Southern food.

Attractions

There are all kinds of exciting new stuff to see and do in L.A. in this edition. First off, I've added a driving tour of all the celebrity hangouts on Sunset Boulevard & The Sunset Strip -- a must-do drive -- along with an insider's tour of Mulholland Drive, including tips on avoiding the dreaded L.A. traffic. I've also beefed up the Guided Tours section with several new Hollywood tours and a nifty Beverly Hills Trolley Tour.

To save you money I've added a detailed listing of all days L.A.'s art galleries and museums are open free to the public, but you'll spend it anyway when you visit The Grove, 6333 W. 3rd St. (tel. 323/933-9211; www.elkgrove.org/farm_mkt) a massive 575,000-square-foot retail complex that's now part of the Farmers Market in Hollywood.

When you've loaded up on food at the Farmer's Market, drive over to spectacular Greystone Mansion, 905 Loma Vista Dr., (tel. 310/550-4654; www.greystonemansion.com), the 18.5-acre park overlooking Beverly Hills. Spider-Man, X-Men, Batman, Ghostbusters, The Bodyguard, and The Witches of Eastwick were all filmed here, and there's a good chance you can watch a production crew in action as you wander the Mansion Gardens or partake in Afternoon Tea on the Terrace.

The best attractions to recently open include the incredible Walt Disney Concert Hall, First St. and Grand Ave. (tel. 323/850-2000; www.musiccenter.org), design by world-renowned architect Frank O. Gehry, the Hollywood History Museum, 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood (tel. 323/464-7776; www.hollywoodhistorymuseum.org) housing thousands of artifacts from the entertainment industry, and the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, 555 West Temple St., Los Angeles (tel. 213/680-5200; www.olacathedral.org), a $163 million contemporary cathedral and one of L.A. newest architectural treasures.

My favorite new addition, however, is the Sunset Margarita Horse Rides that take place every Friday night at the Sunset Ranch Hollywood Stables, Beachwood Drive off of Franklin Avenue (tel. 323/469-5450). Take a scenic horsey ride through Griffith Park, dine and drink at a Mexican restaurant, and mosey on back to the ranch.

On a final note, cancel those plans to visit the Griffith Observatory. The entire area is closed for a major renovation and expansion and won't reopen until May 2005. However, a temporary "Griffith Observatory Satellite," located just south of the Los Angeles Zoo at 4800 Western Heritage Way (tel. 323/664-1181; www.griffithobs.org), hosts planetarium shows and provides a telescope to view the moon and planets at night

Shopping

The biggest news in the L.A. shopping scene is the opening of gorgeous new Bvlgari jewelry store, 201 N. Rodeo Dr. (tel. 310/858-9216; www.bulgari.com), at the corner of Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard (former home of the Brown Derby restaurant). Other big names recently added to the Beverly Hills shopping roster include Dolce & Gabbana, 312 N. Rodeo Dr. (tel. 310/888-8701; www.dolcegabbana.it), Badgley Mischka, 202 Rodeo Dr. (tel. 310/248-3750), and British plaid palace Burberry Limited, 9560 Wilshire Blvd. (tel. 310/550-4500; www.burberry.com).

In Santa Monica two new entries include Stanners & Kent, 800 B 14th St. (tel. 310/656-2720), a tiny shoe shop which creates custom-designed shoes in whatever style you desire, and the Epicurus wine shop, 625 Montana Ave. (tel. 310/395-1352), which hosts informal blind wine tastings every Saturday between 3 and 5pm.

Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice has also been included this year. One of my favorite shopping zones, it hosts the most eclectic array of non-corporate shops, galleries, and restaurants in the city. Obsolete, 222 Main St., Venice (tel. 310/339-0024), is the most hip antique store you'll ever visit, with collectibles ranging from antique carnival curios to 19th-century anatomical charts from Belgium.

I just couldn't resist including the boutique-style Hustler Hollywood, 8920 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood (tel. 310/860-9009; www.hustlerhollywood.com) the largest erotica store in the country and managed by Teresa Flynt, daughter of Hustler Magazine maven Larry Flynt. Up the street is Amoeba Records, 6400 Sunset Blvd. (tel. 323/254-6400; www.amoebamusic.com) the largest indie record store in the country with more than 500,000 new and used CDs in stock.

After Dark

The biggest nightlife news in L.A. is the new home of the world-class Los Angeles Philharmonic -- the Walt Disney Concert Hall at First St. and Grand Ave. in Downtown (tel. 323/850-2000; www.musiccenter.org). You definitely want to purchase some advance tickets to witness this strikingly beautiful building both inside and out.

Another venue worth seeing is the new Feinstein's at the Cinegrill, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., (tel. 323/769-7269; www.michaelfeinstein.com), located within the Roosevelt Hotel along the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Michael Feinstein, one of the top interpreters of the popular American song, performs often at this swanky tier-leveled supper club.

In the L.A. club scene the new "in" nightclub is Forty Deuce, 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood (tel. 323/466-6263; www.fortydeuce.com), Designed as back-alley striptease lounge, the low bar, lounge chair seating, and cocktail tables with chic lamps all chip in to create a sexy, burlesque vibe. Models use the bar as a runway so watch your cocktail.