What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Chicago

Good news for budget travelers: The new Midway International Airport building (tel. 773/838-0600; www.ohare.com) has added more gates for the discount airlines that fly here, which means more flight options for visitors. Should you be stuck here waiting for a delayed flight, the attractive food court now has outposts of independently owned Chicago restaurants, including Pegasus (Greek), Lalo's (Mexican), and Gold Coast Dogs (hot dogs).

Where to Stay

Average hotel prices have dropped somewhat in Chicago as of late, thanks to the economic climate and subsequent slowdown in business travel. Now more than ever, it pays to shop around to find the best deal. The newest hotel on the scene is Hotel 71, at 71 E. Wacker Drive (tel. 800/621-4005 or 312/346-7100; www.hotel71chicago.com). A complete rehab of a bland 1950s high-rise, it has the soul of a boutique hotel (although with more than 400 rooms, it's far from intimate). It's a good midpriced option in the Loop, with wonderful views of the Chicago River and larger-than-average rooms.

Winter 2004 should also see the debut of the Hard Rock Hotel, 68 E. Wacker Dr. (tel. 312/345-1000; www.hardrock.com) just a few blocks from Hotel 71, near Michigan Avenue south of the river.

Where to Dine

Asian fusion cuisine continues to be all the rage in Chicago. At his namesake restaurant, Kevin, 9 W. Hubbard St. (tel. 312/595-0055), chef Kevin Shikami specializes in Asian-inspired seafood creations (his appetizer version of tuna tartare is considered one of the best in the city).

In the South Loop, Asian goes dramatic at Opera, 1301 S. Wabash Ave. (tel. 312/461-0161). Although the restaurant's upscale take on Chinese cuisine has gotten raves, the bold red-and-gold decor makes this place a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

You'll find the city's only upscale, modern twist on Indian cuisine at Monsoon, 2813 N. Broadway (tel. 773/665-9463), in Lincoln Park. The combination of fine-dining ingredients (lobster, Cornish hen) and Indian flavors should spice up even the most jaded taste buds.

If your tastes run more traditional, try South Water Kitchen, 225 N. Wabash Ave. (tel. 888/306-3507). This Loop newcomer serves up an all-American mix of comfort foods in a setting that recalls an old-fashioned city saloon. One of the most family-friendly downtown spots, South Water Kitchen even has a kids' menu.

Attractions

So what if it's been four years since we celebrated the arrival of the new millennium -- the much-delayed Millennium Park has finally taken shape at the north end of Grant Park along Michigan Avenue. The dramatic centerpiece of the park is a Frank Gehry-designed music pavilion, the home of free summer music concerts by the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra.

The Shedd Aquarium has opened a major new exhibit, Wild Reef -- Sharks at Shedd, 1200 S. Lake Shore Dr. (tel. 312/939-2438; www.sheddaquarium.org), which is made up of 26 interconnected habitats that bring visitors up close and personal with these toothy predators and other sea creatures.

Animal lovers should also check out the Lincoln Park Zoo, 2200 N. Cannon Dr., at Fullerton Pkwy. (tel. 312/742-2000; www.lpzoo.com), home to the recently opened Regenstein African Journey, where visitors can stroll through the habitats of elephants, giraffes, hippos, and other large mammals, and kids can test their gross-out tolerance at an exhibit of hissing cockroaches.

Shopping

Despite gloomy economic forecasts, shoppers continue to throng the designer boutiques and bustling high-rise malls along Michigan Avenue, the city's prime shopping district. The street's newest luxury-shopping destination is Louis Vuitton, 919 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/944-2010; www.vuitton.com). Yes, you can find pricey shoes and clothes here, but most shoppers go straight for the handbags and iconic gold-and-brown luggage.

If Louis Vuitton is out of your price range, you'll want to walk a few blocks south to the new H&M, 840 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/867-7587; www.hm.com), the first Midwest outpost of the Swedish department store chain specializing in "cheap chic," with trendy looks at affordable prices.

With its sleek white decor, Lille, 1923 W. North Ave. (tel. 773/342-0563), could be mistaken for an art gallery, but this Wicker Park home accessories store is actually a lot less intimidating than it seems at first sight. The store's mix of high style and quirky charm has attracted Chicago trendsetters. This is the place to find pieces by internationally known designers whose work is not widely available in Chicago (Lulu de Kwiatkowski handbags, Christian Tortu vases), but you'll also find plenty of inexpensive, fun objects.

After Dark

The Lookingglass Theatre Company, one of the city's most creative acting troupes, has moved to a high-profile location at the Water Tower Pumping Station, 821 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/337-0665; www.lookingglasstheatre.org). Its original adaptations of great literary works are now more accessible than ever to out-of-town visitors--and well worth checking out.

To make the scene after dinner, laid-back lounges are drawing the crowds more than nightclubs. At Domaine, 1045 N. Rush St. (tel. 312/397-1045), the over-the-top baroque decor attracts a sophisticated clientele. A small dance floor here heats up later in the evening, but reserve a table if you want to spend the evening indulging in Domaine's prime activity: people-watching.

To satisfy a sweet tooth, make your way to the "dessert bar" Sugar, 108 W. Kinzie St. (tel. 312/822-9999). Decorated in bright, candy-inspired colors, this combination pastry shop/cocktail bar serves up elaborate dessert combinations and creative mixed drinks. If you're in a romantic mood, reserve one of the booths that can be closed off with a privacy curtain.