What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Chicago

November 2004 -- The always-busy O'Hare Airport is undergoing some much-needed plastic surgery in Terminals 2 and 3 (which serve all the airlines except United, which flies exclusively through Terminal 1). Travelers should experience minimal hassles, since all the actual work is being done at night. The main inconvenience is for drivers hoping to pick up or drop off passengers, since many of the outside doorways are now closed. To make driving easier, the airport is offering a special reduced rate in its main parking garage: $3 for the first three hours. Trust me -- that's a real bargain, so take advantage.

Frequent road warriors will be relieved to hear that both O'Hare and smaller south-side Midway Airport will have Wi-Fi service by early 2005, allowing Internet access throughout both airports. The airports will be using a "neutral" host, allowing wireless access regardless of which carrier is used.

You can keep abreast what's doing at Chicago area airports by clicking over to www.flychicago.com.

Where to Stay

A formerly desolate stretch of land just north of the Chicago River -- between Michigan Avenue and the lakefront -- has become the latest hot property in town. Now dubbed River East, it's home to the new Embassy Suites Chicago-Downtown/Lakefront, 511 N. Columbus Dr., (tel. 312/836-5900; www.embassysuiteschicago.com). Despite the cumbersome name, the hotel itself is sleek and modern (and includes an indoor swimming pool). A 21-screen, stadium-seating movie theater is located in the same complex.

Where to Dine

Chicago is home to several places that take Mexican cooking beyond nachos and taco (i.e. Frontera Grill, Chilpanchingo, Adobo Grill). The latest Latino success story is Platiyo, 3313 N. Clark St. (tel. 773/477-6700; www.platiyo.com). The chef is a Frontera Grill veteran, and the food (including seafood stew with yellow mole sauce and chile-braised pork shoulder) has made many neighborhood residents into regular customers. Now comes word that a second location will be opening in Wicker Park in early 2005; look for it at the intersection of Damen, Milwaukee and North avenues (the space that use to house Caribbean/Southern spot Soul Kitchen).

Avec, 615 W. Randolph St. (tel. 312/377-2002), is the newest West Loop hotspot, a casual wine bar with a menu of Mediterranean-inspired "small plates" meant for sharing. Opened by the folks behind perennially popular Blackbird (located right next door), it's cozy and casual -- and packed during peak dinner hours. Seating is at eight communal tables, making this a good spot for travelers looking to chat with locals (stay away if you like eating in peace and quiet).

China Grill, 230 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/334-6700; www.chinagrillmgt.com), in the new Hard Rock Hotel Chicago, opened with some buzz (it's the latest in a chain that includes locations in New York, Miami and Las Vegas). But the far-from-amazing food (at sky-high prices) is already drawing a fair amount of sniping.

Attention carb counters! Chicago will soon have two dueling all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascarias, where a set price buys you unlimited grilled meats (served tableside) and a massive salad bar. Fogo de Chao, 661 N. LaSalle St. (tel. 312/932-9330; www.fogodechao.com), in River North, will soon have some competition from Sal & Carvao, due to open in February 2005 only a few block away. Both charge about $50 for dinner (bring your appetite!).

The biggest story right now for local foodies is the drama at onesixty blue, 160 N. Ogden Ave., (tel. 312/850-0303; www.160blue.com), which was widely considered one of the best restaurants in town. Chef Marcial Noguier has left, and while a rumored closing hasn't happened, the restaurant's long-term prospects seem to be shaky.

Exploring Chicago

Millennium Park, at the north end of Grant Park along Michigan Avenue, is the city's newest urban showpiece. The architectural highlight of the park is the Frank Gehry-designed Pritzker Music Pavilion, home of the free summer music concerts performed by the Grant Park Symphony Orchestra. Another popular attraction is "Cloud Gate," a huge elliptical sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor. The piece looks like a giant silver kidney bean, and it's truly an interactive work of art: trying to spot your own reflection can be strangely compelling.

Lincoln Park Zoo at 2200 N. Cannon Dr., at Fullerton Pkwy. (tel. 312/742-2000; www.lpzoo.com), continues to expand and improve its exhibits -- an especially impressive accomplishment considering that the zoo still charges no admission fee. First the entire African habitat was revamped, then the Great Ape House was completely rebuilt (complete with extensive outdoor habitats). The latest project is the Pritzker Children's Zoo, which is scheduled to open in spring 2005. If it's anywhere near as elaborate as the other new exhibits, I expect it to be a must-see attraction for families.

One of the most famous exhibits at The Museum of Science and Industry, 57th Street and Lake Shore Drive (tel. 773/684-1414; www.msichicago.org), is the U-505, a German submarine captured at the end of World War II. Years of sitting outside took their toll; after a year of renovations, the sub goes back on display in a new, climate-controlled exhibit, due to open in spring 2005.

Shopping

The stretch of Southport Avenue west of Wrigley Field has become a new shopping hot spot, thanks to an influx of young professionals with plenty of disposable income. Among the coolest new boutiques: Jake, 3740 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/929-5253; www.shopjake.com), which stocks a variety of trendy jeans lines for both men and women; Flirt, 3449 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/935-4789), with an eclectic mix of fun, feminine pieces; and Kuhlman, 3724 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/472-6332; www.kuhlmancompany.com), featuring stylish menswear at fairly affordable prices. And should you be looking for something a little more youthful, stop by Beansprout, 3732 N. Southport Ave. (tel. 773/472-4780), a kids' clothing store filled with outfits that look good (lots of fun, bright colors) and are -- best of all -- quite practical (the owners promise that everything is machine-washable!)

Chicago After Dark

River North is filled with nightspots -- from laid-back pubs to cooler-than-thou lounges. The city's coolest new place to grab a drink manages to channels a little of both. Rockit Bar and Grill, 22 W. Hubbard St. (tel.312/645-6000; www.rockitbarandgrill.com), is the brainchild of popular nightlife impresario Billy Dec, so the beautiful people are definitely regulars here. The sophisticated décor comes courtesy of Oprah Winfrey's favorite designer, Nate Berkus. But the feel is more neighborhood hangout than fashion show.

Highly anticipated Sound-Bar, 226 W. Ontario St. (tel. 312/787-4480), was supposed to offer the ultimate sound system for late-night clubhounds. While I hear that the sound system blasts away just fine (and attracts some internationally-known D.J.s), the crowd itself can be a little more unpredictable: hard-core club kids one night, wide-eyed conventioneers the next. Still, the space itself is impressive (nine separate bars, each with its own color scheme), so it's worth a try.

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