Where's Johnny Jet? Soaking up the Sun in Provence

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Bonjour from the south of France! I'm here checking out the new Club Med Opio in Provence, which just officially opened last month. If you're looking for a great getaway and want to stay at an all-inclusive resort that offers a cultural element as well, then what you're about to read about, just might convince you to make this your next vacation destination. In short, Club Med Opio is a fun, mid-price, family oriented vacation option that truly encompasses the beauty and sophistication of southern France. What I love about it, is that guests aren't just limited to the Club Med compound. You'll find a variety of excursions from dinners to perfume factory tours in the surrounding charming villages. If you think getting here isn't easy, then think again. Thanks to a nonstop flight from New York to Nice, it just couldn't be any easier. If you want a more detailed account of my experience, then read on.

Unlocking My Cell Phone

Last week, we left off in Toronto, Canada. From there, I flew back to New York's La Guardia airport (LGA), hung out with my family and friends for a couple of days in nearby southern Connecticut and took care of some last minute business and errands before departing again from JFK. One of my tasks before I left was to get my new T-Mobile Blackberry Pearl phone (which I love) unlocked. OK, so if you want to save money when you travel then listen up! If you get your GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) phone unlocked, you can put a local SIM card in from practically any country that you're in. By doing this, you'll get a local number, plus free incoming calls, no matter where they're coming from. In addition, you'll be able to make outgoing calls for less than half the price of most US carriers. Some of my friends, who are using T-Mobile service, were able to get their phones unlocked for free just by calling T-Mobile's 800 number. Unfortunately, T-Mobile wouldn't do this for me, so perhaps my friends received this service because they've been longtime customers. At any rate, there are a number of companies that will unlock your phone. I used Infinity Wireless, a full-service retail cell phone store on Main Street in Santa Monica, CA. Their specialty is unlocking Cingular and T-Mobile GSM phones. Prices vary but it cost me $35 and all I had to do was call the store (310-452-9935) and give them the serial number on my phone. The following day, they called me back with one-minute instructions and a code to unlock my phone. Voila! It worked! Now, I'm enjoying the benefits of email-on-the-go and inexpensive calls. FYI: If you don't have a GSM phone, you can buy one from CellularAbroad, an industry leader and the company behind National Geographic's new Talk Abroad international cell phone. This is where I get my SIM cards before I travel. NOTE: It's a bit cheaper to wait to get to your destination, but it's definitely not as convenient, nor does it instill peace of mind.

Nonstop from NYC to Nice

You might be as surprised as I was to learn that Delta now offers the first nonstop flight from the United States to Nice, France. This service can save travelers a good two to four hours by eliminating a connecting flight in Paris or other major European gateways. From JFK, my flight time was 7 hours and 46 minutes. Unfortunately, door-to-door it might not save time because of the terrible gridlock JFK has been experiencing lately. I have to say, JFK is my least favorite airport. Not only is it a nightmare to get to (I mean, who designed this place?) but it's ridiculously maxed out capacity-wise, especially in the late afternoon and early evening when all the Europe-bound flights are departing. Taxi-time to and from the gate can be as long as four (that's right four!) hours. What a joke!

Checking in for my flight at Delta's international terminal was not a pleasurable experience. The terminal was completely packed, no one knew where to go and the self-check-in machines weren't working. Luckily, I didn't have to wait in the 90-minute economy line because I have elite status on Delta. This means that I could use the business class desk even though I was flying coach; it took 15 minutes for me to get my boarding pass. Our taxi for takeoff wasn't exceptionally long (45 minutes), and I sat in seat 17C, which is supposedly the best economy seat on the 767-300 series plane according to the experts at SeatGuru.com. The good news is that Delta's staff did a great job treating everyone like they were in business class. They came around often with bottled water and even handed out amenity bags with an eye mask, earplugs and socks to help people sleep. On this flight there isn't a lot of nightfall, so the eye mask was key. The food wasn’t too good but at least they served it.

Bottled Water Rant

By the way: Is it just me or do you agree that there's something wrong with our federal government ending the airplane ban on cigarette lighters on August 4th but not the liquid ban? I'm sure the only reason they're doing this is because it's costing the government $4 million a year to dispose of them. How it costs $4 million a year to dispose of lighters is beyond me. Regardless, it seems to me, that someone can do a whole lot more damage with a lighter than with a bottle of water. What airports are charging for bottled water on the other side of security is almost a crime. Would you believe that it cost me $3.24 for a bottle of nasty VASA water? Don't get me wrong, I am all for free enterprise but this is ridiculous. Since no one is allowed to go through security with bottled water, it seems like such a blatant abuse to charge these outrageous prices. It's just wrong. Seriously, I wonder how many people are getting dehydrated or even worse, suffering serious medical consequences due to this ban? In my opinion, if the government wants to continue this ban, they should also pass some kind of legislation on fair pricing of water once you've cleared security.

Arriving in Nice

Once we touched down in Nice, I was one of the first off the plane, which was key as there are only two customs agents working passport control. No matter what, if you check bags, you will most likely wait a good 40 minutes before getting out of the airport. But I prefer to wait at baggage claim because there, you have the freedom to use your cell phone and, more importantly, the restroom. As scheduled, the Club Med driver was waiting outside baggage claim with a sign. If you book your flight with Club Med, transfers to and from the airport are included -- otherwise a taxi ride will run you about 70 € (about US$96), which still might be cheaper if you book the air yourself so price around. The driver was pleasant and though he didn't speak English, I was still able to detect his love and pride for his country, as he proudly pointed out castles and other landmarks along the 30-minute route to the resort.

Club Med Opio

The Club Med Opio village is 30 kilometers (18 miles) from the Nice airport, high in the hills above Cannes, in a truly delightful corner of Provence. It's located in the Maritime Alps between Grasse and Valbonne and the village itself is 50 hectares (123 acres). There are 443 rooms, all situated in 10 traditional two- to four-story Provencal-style buildings, complete with courtyards and water fountains. FYI: There are no elevators so if you don't want to hike it upstairs, then request a room on the ground floor.

I was incredibly excited to be here because I had such a great experience at the reopening of Club Med Cancún last November (here's the link to that story. That's when Club Med unveiled their new philosophy: to go upscale and cater to families. There are 80 Club Med properties worldwide and only a few of them are still adults-only. However, by 2009 virtually all the resorts will be family-friendly.

I arrived around midday. I was looking forward to dropping off my bags and taking a shower but no such luck. It was opening weekend and the front desk was a bit overwhelmed; they were sold out and things were taking longer than expected. That meant I had to wait a few hours before I could check-in. But that was fine with me. After all, I was in the south of France, it was a gorgeous day and I had all kinds of options to choose from -- all for free. In my opinion, being all-inclusive (except for certain activities and high-end alcohol) is one of Club Med's best attributes -- besides their international, friendly staff. I couldn't make up my mind. Should I go to the bar, grab a drink and log on to the Internet. Take part in one of the many sports on offer? Or just take a nap by the pool? Ah, it's nice to have options.

Activities

For starters, Club Med Opio has four pools. One of them is adults-only and is called The Calm Pool. There’s an indoor Roman bath that is reserved for the Club Med Spa customers (more on this later) and one that's reserved for Mini Club Med. Yes, this place is very kid-friendly! The main oversized pool is located in between two bars and next to the lobby so it's the focal point. In fact, it's where the majority of guests spend most of their time. If you want to get or stay in shape, you'll find a state of the art gym with daily spinning and yoga classes. I ventured in one morning thinking I would try an energizing spinning class for the first time ... I walked out with a fresh, warm chocolate croissant in my hand. Only in France would you find croissants in a gym! Other highlights included a compact, nine-hole golf course on the property, where lessons are free; there are 21 other golf courses nearby. Then there's volleyball, archery, tennis (13 courts), mountain biking and petanque, which is France's national pastime, similar to bocce. Oh! And how could I forget about my favorite, the flying trapeze? I became addicted to this curious activity in Cancún and it continued here.

Lunch in the Olive Garden

Fortunately for me, it was time for my favorite pastime: lunch. It was served in the most unusual of places -- in the olive garden. No silly, not the popular chain restaurant but a real olive grove with thousands of these hundred-year-old trees, neatly lined up row after row. What an introduction to Provence! It was magical. Food stations were set between the tree trunks with an assortment of dishes that made my mouth water. This is another thing I love about the new Club Med. Although everything is included, the food is high quality, wonderfully presented and there's something for everyone, no matter what your dietary needs or how finicky an eater you may be. There were loads of fresh fruits, vegetables and a variety of salads, bread and meats. Don't even get me started on dessert! Wow! The special was strawberries soaked in fresh mint, yogurt or wine. Of course, the olive grove is not the typical dining area; it's used every few weeks or on special occasions.

Food at Club Med

There are two restaurants in the village but most meals are served in Le Provencal, a second floor, upscale cafeteria with multiple food stations. Each night featured a different theme, from Italian to Mexican. But no matter what the theme was, there were always some staple foods available for those who didn't like that type of cuisine. Being part Italian, I appreciated that they always had pizza and pasta available, prepared by Italians no less. Lunch was almost as elaborate as dinner, though not as many dessert choices. Thank God. I mean, you've got to draw the line somewhere. And breakfast would satisfy any taste buds as they offered much more than just croissants and coffee. Because of the themed meals, I didn't get sick and tired of the food. A couple of evenings, I went out with friends and explored the nearby towns, recommended by the Club Med staff. NOTE: If you're one of those people who gets the midnight munchies, be forewarned that European Club Meds don't offer food 24/7 like the ones in the US. Plus, there's no room service or mini bars or fridges in the rooms. However, they do offer light snacks in the three bars and poolside.

Entertainment

After dinner you can enjoy nightly entertainment that's family-friendly but to be perfectly honest, I found it pretty cheesy. However, the kids seemed to love it and I guess that's what's most important. This does not include the guitarist by the bar.

My Room

I was in the Bastide du Jasmine building; all of the buildings are named after herbs. This particular building is so named because there are loads of jasmine flowers everywhere that smelled so incredible, I can't do the fragrance justice by describing it. My second-floor room was nice, though nothing special. It was dark, a little on the small side and the bed wasn't too comfortable. Actually, I didn't sleep that well because the walls were thin, the bed too firm for my liking and the duvet too heavy. Since there were no sheets, I was hot most of the time, even with the AC blasting. Actually, the bedding is my biggest complaint about the whole place. They definitely need to get some new linens and a softer flat sheet, as the fabric was too rough on my skin. The bathroom was also small but the water pressure in the shower was hot and firm. Rooms come with flat screen TVs and connecting rooms are available if you're traveling with kids. Warning: Like most of Europe, the maid still comes in and cleans your room even when the Do Not Disturb sign is on the door. I didn't complain because she left bottles of water each time.

Traveling with Kids

Travelers don't come to this Club Med looking to meet someone or for a romantic escape like a honeymoon. As Club Med transitions from singles hotspot to family-friendly vacation destination, the only way I'd ever return is if I were to bring my family with me. I know, I know ... first I need to get a family. No wait, first I need to get a girlfriend ... Anyhow, I digress. Parents love this place because it's a fun and safe environment for kids of all ages and kids love it because they get to meet new friends, and they're never bored. It's win-win, all around. For people with babies up to 23 months, Club Med Baby Welcome offers baby equipment and suitable food. Petit Club Med is for kids 2 to 3 years, Mini Club Med is for kids 4 to 10 years and Club Med Passworld is a new concept dedicated to kids between 11 and 17 years, so they can be creative, play sports and more. For further information, log on to ClubMed.com.

Excursions

One of the best attributes of this Club Med are the excursions available to guests. Being in the south of France, there's so much to see and do and Club Med Opio takes full advantage of this. They offer a wide range of nearby day trips, all about a 30-minute drive away. You can visit Grasse, the perfume capital of the world (33 €), Saint Paul (41 €), Antibes, Cannes and Nice. I'm not including all the prices because they vary but the ones that do include transportation, tour leaders and any entrance fees.

Dinner in Mougins

One night, I had dinner in the charming hillside village of Mougins, which is famous for its food. It's a 15-minute drive and we ate at a lovely place called Place des Patriots (Here’s their business card). This quaint, three-floor eatery with two balconies offers the most incredible vistas of the nearby valleys. To give you an idea of the menu, I started off with cold cantaloupe soup with mint, then a salad with baby artichoke hearts and olives followed by thyme sorbet to clean the palate. I know it may sound somewhat unappetizing, but I'm glad I tried it. It was actually quite tasty. The main dish options are either a local white fish or chicken and one of the best desserts ever; a shortbread cookie with strawberries and star fruit, accompanied by sorbet and topped with pistachio whipped cream.

Taxis

Plenty of taxis are available from Club Med but you have to order them in advance; wait time is usually 30 minutes. There are flat rates so find out first from the hotel what the rate should be, then confirm again with the driver once you get in. When I was headed to La Jarrerie restaurant for lunch, I checked with the hotel staff to find out how much I should expect to pay. They told me 25 €, but when I got in the taxi, the driver quoted me a fare of 30 €. When I said that I was told the fare should be 25 €, he relented and said okay. A little bit of negotiating saved me 5 € and when you're traveling, these expenses can add up. La Jarrerie restaurant (Here’s a scan of their business card) has a beautiful interior but the outside patio is nothing special. The food is good and the service is excellent.

Gourdon

One day, we made the 20-minute drive to Gourdon. Talk about incredible views! The views along the drive up to the top of this mountain are jaw dropping but just wait until you get there and walk along the narrow, cobblestone streets. Gourdon is known as the Balcony of the French Riviera. On a clear day you can see Cannes, the Lérins Islands, the Cape of Antibes, Mandelieu and the Esterel Massif. There are plenty of shops and restaurants in Gourdon, and unfortunately, there are plenty of tourists, too. Our mission wasn't to shop but to begin begin a two-hour hike down the mountain. What? That's what I said when I saw the steep drop. But the hike in the Gorges du Loup was nothing too advanced for a novice like me. The narrow, rocky path was tricky at first but then it became mostly flat and the views were fantastic. Part of the hike was spent walking along a path originally used for mules bearing packages and the fun part was going through dark tunnels that were carved out for Gourdon's water pipeline.

Saint Paul

My final excursion was a 30-minute drive to Saint Paul. This is France's second most visited village, after Mont Saint-Michel. It's supposedly one of the most beautiful villages in Provence, and many famous artists, painters, writers and poets were inspired by its beauty, quality of life and exceptional light. Some, like Picasso and Braque, took up residence here and Marc Chagall is buried in the town cemetery. I would have really enjoyed this village if it weren't a tourist trap but it is. Next time, I need to go back early in the morning before everyone else arrives. The best part besides getting a hot chocolate and banana crepe was grabbing a cold drink at an outdoor café at the base of the village and watching the locals play petanque on the clay courts.

Bastille Day

I was fortunate enough to spend Bastille Day (France's Independence Day, July 14) in Cannes. I will write about Cannes in detail when I go back there later this summer but if you plan to visit before August 24, be sure not to miss the Festival D'Art Pyrotechnique. It's Cannes' weekly fireworks competition, which takes place every summer off La Croisette. Every Saturday from now until August 24, this competition will feature the works of some of the world's best pyro-technicians. The show begins at 10 pm and there's no admission fee. I recommend eating on the beach. I ate at the Plage Du Festival (reservations are a must) and dinner cost 65 € for a prix fixe menu including appetizer, entree and dessert. Sitting at the table next to us were the judges of the competition and this illustrious group was comprised of famous French actors and artists. July 14 was the official kickoff of the show and was produced by a Canadian company. In my opinion, they were the best fireworks I'd ever seen and my American friends agreed. But I got talking to one of the judges who said that this was one of the worst shows and that they were actually embarrassed! I was totally shocked. If that was the worst fireworks show, I can't imagine what the best is like. For more info log to www.festival-pyrotechnique-cannes.com.

Worth Mentioning

I didn't have time to go into Club Med's conference center, but a lot of companies host their corporate meetings here. Rooms don't have irons but they do have them in the washing room where machines are available for a fee. If you don't want to do your own laundry, then you can pay to have it done. The Orange Network, found throughout France, provides wireless Internet for reasonable rates. What's cool is that you can just buy a certain amount of time, log on and off when you wish and it's good for 30 days. 1 hour costs 4.50 €, 3 hours for 10 €, 10 hours for 15 € and 30 hours for 50 €.

Overall

I really had a great trip to Club Med Opio and Provence. As usual, there's so much to do and not enough time. What I liked the most about this Club Med were the rich culture and stunning surroundings. The staff wasn't as friendly as they were at the Club Med Cancun and if you want a drink, you have to go to the bar ... they don't come to you. But then again, this is France. No offense but the French aren't exactly known for being overly warm but they are cordial. You can't beat the setting. I could never get sick of the spectacular views and the refreshing fragrance of jasmine and lavender in the air. Rates per person for seven nights (land only) begin at $1,068 . When you factor in the cost of food, activities and rooms, it's a great deal. Club Med Opio, Domaine de la Tour, tel. +33 4 93 09 71 00.

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