Where's Johnny Jet? Smelling Swell in Provence

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Bonjour from the south of France. Last week, I wrote about my incredible week-long stay in Cannes and this week, we leave the flashy beachside community to visit nearby Antibes and the villages in the Provençal countryside. If you're up for a little fun in the sun, plus a tour of the perfume capital of the world, where I had the opportunity to create my own sweet-smelling fragrance called "Jet69", then do yourself a favor, grab your overnight bag and get ready for your senses to be overloaded.

Mougins

This was my second visit to the charming medieval village of Mougins. It's a 15-minute, four-mile (7 km) drive from Cannes and is famous for its food. In fact, Mougins is known for having the most Michelin-rated restaurants of any region in France. I wrote about my lovely dinner here a few weeks ago, at a place called Place des Patriots; here's their business card and a link to my review. But this was my first chance to see the village, which has jaw-dropping vistas, during the day. Mougins is so quaint that you'll want to take a special someone on that romantic trip you've been putting off. The village is full of narrow alleys, cobblestone streets, colorful flowers and of course, its fair share of boutiques and cafés. There's even a small photography museum, which I popped into, to see some portraits of Picasso who spent the last 15 years of his life living in Mougins. Although Mougins is picturesque during the day, I believe it really comes to life at night when everything is all lit up and the streets are filled with diners walking off the calories they've just put into their bursting bellies. If you can't spend a night or two, visit for dinner at the very least. You won't be disappointed.

Hotel in Mougins

If you've got beaucoup bucks, the swankiest hotel in Mougins is Le Mas Candille. It's a seven-minute walk down the hill from the village and nine miles (15 km) from the Nice Airport. Originally an 18th-century farmhouse, Le Mas Candille is a five-star, luxury hotel. It's surrounded by 40,000 square meters of Provencal parkland, filled with cypress trees and has an old olive grove. I wasn't there to sleep in the 40-room hotel (thank God; they charge 30 € a day for wireless Internet access.), but instead, to have lunch at the hotel's acclaimed restaurant, which has been awarded the coveted three Michelin stars. It goes without saying that the food was as wonderful as the views that spread before me, across the Mougins Valley to the Pre-Alps.

Lunch at Le Mas Candille

Chef Serge Gouloumes incorporates exotic flavors into his Italian- and Provencal-based cooking and his dishes demonstrate a real artistic flair. For starters, there was a choice of Candille tatin of foie gras or a baby artichoke salad. For the main dish, I chose the tournedos of simmental beef with summer truffles. Dessert was divine and was presented as if it were Picasso's paint palette. A special treat from the chef, macaroons were served with our coffee. The macaroons were so delicate, they melted in your mouth. The service was just okay ... one of our waiters gave us a bit of attitude when we asked for more bread and wine. The man was prompt but we could tell he wasn't fond of obnoxious Americans. The restaurant is open to the public (reservations are highly recommended) and the dress code is smart casual. Open for lunch from noon to 2:15pm and for dinner from 7-10pm.

Shiseido Spa

Most of the hotel's guests hail from France or England. Of those guests, about 85% of them supposedly use the hotel's Shiseido Spa. I paid the spa a visit, too but I wasn't very fond of my experience. To begin with, there's only one dressing room. So you have to wait while someone of the other sex changes. Then, I had to put on a pair of that uncomfortable, scratchy paper underwear, which, I might add, I've seen way too much of lately. Seriously, I'd rather be naked than wear these ridiculous things. But the worst part was what was waiting for me inside. The massage room was uncomfortably hot and the hole in massage table, where you're supposed to put your face, was covered with a towel, making it difficult to breathe. When I turned my head sideways, gasping for air, my neck cramped. To finish me off, like a boxer going for the knockout punch in the 12th round, the pretty masseuse turned me over, put a steaming hot towel on my back, then sprayed some Shiseido Spa product on my wrists. In her cute French accent she said it would energize me but instead, it induced my allergies. When I finally stopped coughing, I ran down to the pool with my robe on and shed it like Superman in midair, as I leaped into the pool. What was supposed to be a graceful dive ended up being an explosive belly flop. And yes, now I know that paper underwear does not hold up so well to water and high impact. I felt bad for the romantic couple that I splashed and flashed when I got out. I was too embarrassed to apologize so I ran back to the change room like an escaped prisoner. Le Mas Candille, for all reservations, call +33 4 92 28 43 43.

Antibes

Mougins is known for its food and Antibes is known for its music. Every summer, there's a major festival that attracts famous jazz musicians from all over the world. This year, Norah Jones was one of the headliners. The resort town is about a twenty-minute drive from Cannes, along the coast towards Nice. The majority of visitors aren't here for the history or art; they come to soak up the sun from the soft sand beaches or from their yachts. I was here for the annual Festival d'Art Lyrique at the Villa Eilenroc in Cap d'Antibes. I went to a concert that featured four countertenors. Tickets begin at 50 euros and should be bought in advance. The setting felt like something out of the pages of The Great Gatsby. A famous Dutchman built Villa Eilenroc as a residence in 1867. He named it after his wife Cornélie (Eilenroc is a palindrome of her name) and he employed the same architect as the Paris Opera House. It was long regarded as the ultimate party place for the rich and famous and in 1982, the palatial residence was bequeathed to the city to open the gardens up to the public and to hold exhibitions and receptions. Today, you can tour the villa on Wednesdays at 9:00am and 1:30pm. Note: This is not to be confused with the famous Eden-Roc Hotel, which is nearby and is a place where countless celebrities have called home.

Four Tenors Concert

Sitting outside along the Cote d'Azur, while the sun is setting, the sky slowly turning from blue to black, shimmering stars popping into view, was a beautiful thing. And then to witness the marvelous villa light up and hear the strumming of the Cannes-Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur Orchestra, made it magical. I know absolutely nothing about music so don't laugh that I didn't know what countertenors were. Obviously, I wasn't alone because judging by the reactions of my colleagues, they didn't know what we were in for, either. When we signed up to see "The Three Countertenors" (though it ended up being four) I thought we would be seeing something similar to Domingo, Carreras and Pavarotti (God bless his soul.) Instead, we witnessed grown men, dressed in tuxedos, singing like little schoolgirls.

At first, I thought my eyes were fooling me. Their voices and the music were beautiful but it was difficult to comprehend that men were actually singing. I don't feel badly joking around about this because I was fortunate enough to have a late-night dinner with the singers after the performance in the villa gardens. They were very pleasant and the Scottish bloke who I sat next to, totally understood where I was coming from when I expressed my surprise at how high they could sing. At their first note, everyone in my group had to pinch themselves to stop from bursting out laughing. The mayor was sitting two seats away and things only got worse when I heard one of my friends, who was having a real tough time holding it in, chuckle. You know what it's like in those situations ... when you're trying to hold your laughter in, but you can hear others struggling to do the same, it only makes it harder. It brought tears to our eyes and I don't think any of us have not laughed so hard in a long time. Reno, the Scottish tenor, was a great sport and said he gets it all the time. Unfortunately, he informed me that my jokes weren't original when I inquired if, just before he goes on stage, he has his assistant knee him where it hurts. He also volunteered that yes, they do have testicles. Maybe you had to be there, but I highly recommend you go next year. Box office: Anitibes Tourist Office, 11 Place de Gaulle in Antibes (+33 4 97 23 11 11) and in Juan-les-Pins (+33 4 97 23 11 10).

Antibes Hotel

That night, I stayed at the 175-room Le Meridien Garden Beach Hotel in Juan Les Pins (part of Antibes). It's located on the beach and in the center of town, which is loaded with stores and expensive boutiques. If it weren't for the cheesy Eden casino/nightclub next door that reeked of stale beer and the bums walking around, the location would be ideal. Apart from the lobby and parts of the rooms, the hotel is in dire need of a renovation. The elevators are painfully slow. The shower in my room was old even though they tried to make it look new with one of those worthless, half-glass doors that's supposedly chic but just creates a flood every time you bathe. Also, my toilet had rust stains and the paint was coming off the bathroom door. All of that can be fixed quickly, which hopefully they'll do soon. Plus, they need to soundproof the balcony's sliding glass doors so you can take a nap during the day and not hear kids screaming on the beach like they're in your room. On the flip side, at night I could hear the pounding of the sea waves, which was soothing. My bed was comfortable and for those who need a TV to fall asleep to, rooms feature flat screens. I would only come back here if I had a family because everyone I saw did and they looked like they were having a good time. Le Meridien Garden Beach Hotel, 15-17 Blvd Baudoin, Juan-les-Pins; tel. +33 4 92 93 57 57.

Antibes Market

In the morning, I wandered around the history-rich port city of Antibes. Out in the distance, was a castle with a Picasso Museum inside, but I didn't get over there. Instead, I went souvenir shopping and perused the outdoor market (Marché Provencal), one of the best daily markets I've ever been to. It's covered by a 19th-century canopy and is filled with locals buying everything from spices to seafood and of course, lots of fruits and vegetables. I picked up some soap and bags of lavender. It's open from 6am to1pm and is closed on Mondays, October through May. It should not be missed.

Absinthe Bar

One of the shops next to the middle entrance of the market sells olive oil. The shop is nothing extraordinary, but downstairs in the cellar is an Absinthe Bar and Museum. Absinthe is the green, licorice-flavored drink that was banned because in excess, it was believed to drive drinkers insane or worse yet, kill them. Van Gogh was perhaps one of the world's most notable absinthe drinkers. Absinthe became legal again a few years ago but today there are very few places to drink it. I'm not a boozer but the bar is quite an experience and the whole serving method is fascinating. Drinks start at 4 euro. Absinthe Bar La Balade (25 Cours Masséna, Antibes, tel. +33 4 93 34 93 00.

Lunch in Antibes

La Taverne du Safranier is a perfect casual, inexpensive restaurant for lunch. It opened in 1950 and is a nice walk from the market. Sit outside on the patio under the grape vines and enjoy fresh seafood and rosé wine. Open for lunch (12pm to 2:30pm) and dinner (7pm to 10:30pm). La Taverne du Safranier, 1, place du Safranier; tel. +33 4 93 34 80 50.

Grasse

Grasse is 1,148 feet (350 meters) above sea level and 12 miles (20 km) from the coast. It has been the perfume capital of the world since the end of the 18th century and produces over two-thirds of France's natural aromas used in both perfume and food. Believe it or not, it's almost a billion-dollar-a-year industry. Grasse's microclimate is perfect for growing flowers. It's warm but just far enough from the sea air and has plenty of water. The top produced flower is jasmine, which was brought to the south of France in the 16th century by the Moors. Twenty-seven tons of jasmine are harvested in Grasse every year. I took a walking tour of this historic village, which now thrives on the tourism industry. There are countless shops and restaurants to enjoy and most people just make a day trip. Note: The best-selling book and movie, Perfume is about Grasse.

Fragonard

By far, the most popular perfume factory to tour is Parfumerie Fragonard. Built in 1782, the factory is one of the oldest in Grasse and Fragonard has been creating perfumes since 1926. Fragonard's name is a tribute to the famous painter Jean-Honore Fragonard and these days, they produce not only perfumes but also cosmetics and soaps. It's open every day of the year (including Sunday and holidays) and is tour bus central so get there early. Tours are free and last about 30 minutes and are given in almost all European languages. It's a good business they have; they suck you in with the free tour and then get you all fired up on French perfumes and their factory-price products. How can anyone say no? Very few do and I wasn't one of them. FYI: There's also a private museum on site where you can see a display of 3,000 years of perfume history. Fragonard's website.

Perfume Workshop

Perfume workshops need to be pre-arranged by a tour group and are not open up to the general public. I think this is a mistake because it was my favorite experience in Grasse. I felt like I was back in college. I don't see why they can't offer these workshops on a daily basis. Our instructor was a "Nose." There are just 500 of these well trained and gifted people worldwide. Everyone in our class was given flasks, eyedroppers and a workbook to record the quantity of ingredients in their fragrance. It was up to us how much more of which fragrance to add in. But as a base, we needed to add a little bit of our nine scents: Brazilian orange, Italian lemon, Italian bergamot, red Italian mandarin, Tunisian neroli, Paraguay petit-grain, verbena, rosemary and lavender. The class was about an hour long and at the end, we all received a diploma as a "Trainee Perfumer" along with our own creations, complete with labels and a box. I named my perfume "Jet 69", for the year I was born.

Hotel Mercure Grasse

Hotel Mercure Grasse is not in the center of the village. It's down the hill on the outskirts so you will need a car or you'll have to take the bus to get around. The hotel is perfect for budget travelers. Rates begin at just 80 € a night and breakfast is included, though I found it to be rather weak. While I was there, there were lots of American kids on a huge European tour staying there. Surprisingly, they all behaved well and although my room had very thin walls, I couldn't hear them. The 65-room hotel is listed as four stars but I would give it three. It has a restaurant (dinner was much better than breakfast), a terrace, small pool, garden and free parking. The rooms are small but are very clean; there's a powerful shower and designer toiletries. The best part of the hotel was the friendly staff that was eager to help. The hotel has wireless Internet supplied by the Orange Network so it's not free but it's not expensive. What's cool about Orange is that you can just buy a certain amount of time, log on and off when you wish and it's good for 30 days. One hour costs 4.50 €,three hours for 10 €,10 hours for 15 € and 30 hours for 50 euro. Mercure Grasse, Rue Martine Carol, Grasse 06130, France; tel. +33 4 93 70 70 70.

Petanque

It was BBQ night at the hotel and before dinner there was a tapenade class being put on by the hotel owner's friend John who runs the popular Palais des Olives store near the Fragonard factory. I learned there are hundreds of types of olives in the world and 30 different kinds in Provence. To make tapenade herbs, like thyme, basil and rosemary are mashed together with garlic and capers. After dinner, our French hosts challenged us to a game of pétanque (more info on pétanque). It's southern France's national pastime; Italians know it as bocce and the English know it as lawn bowling. The hotel had a couple of clay courts so we took them on and got our asses royally kicked. But it was a fun night.

Candy Factory Tour

When I was visiting Club Med Opio a few weeks ago, we went for a hike starting from the top of Gourdon. It's a beautiful hilltop village with a crazy view. On the descent, I remembered seeing a half blown up bridge from WWII and I was told that we wouldn't be going that far down ... it would take too long. Well, when we were driving by this time, to go for a tour of a candy factory and have lunch at a cooking school, we parked right near that bridge. I quickly looked up and there it was -- Gourdon. This valley has to be one of the most spectacular settings in the world and has a beautiful waterfall.

Confiserie Florian

I was now in the village of Le Pont du Loup, where Confiserie Florian is located. The candy shop has been in business since 1949. It used to be a flower mill and was owned by the founder of Fragonard, Eugene Fuchs. When the bridge was taken out in 1944, preventing customers accessing from the Riviera, Fuch's son started a flower candy factory. Today it's a bustling business and they offer free factory tours to see the specialty, crystallized candies being made from rose petals, violet, verbena and jasmine). They also candy local fruit to give buyers another taste of Provence. Like all free tours, this one ends in the expensive gift shop. Of course, the sugar addict that I am, I went to town and spent way too much money ... the place is not cheap and though the candied rose petals were a hit at my neighbor's party when I returned home, no one ate more than one. The Confiserie Florian is located in Pont du Loup (municipality of Tourrettes sur Loup) on the departmental road D2210, 7km from Tourrettes sur Loup and 10km from Grasse. Confiserie Florian, Le Pont du Loup, 06140 Tourrettes-sur-Loup, tel. +33 4 93 59 32 91.

Cooking Class

A one-star-rated Michelin guide chef has capitalized on the tourist Mecca of Confiserie Florian. "Le Chef" as we called him doesn't speak much English. But his adorable, 13-year-old son, a Harry Potter look-alike, translated for him and he provided cooking instructions in English. But to tell you the truth, there was actually something very charming about the fact that we had a language barrier between us. I actually felt even more like I was in a French cooking school, which was as cool as the actual class. For 35 €,he'll teach you how to make his popular yellow peach, verbena, and red currant sugar cookie dessert. He charges up to 80 € per person to put together a whole meal and has a charming picnic bench dining table to enjoy the masterpiece(s). We just helped him whip up the appetizer, which consisted of a boiled tomato with goat cheese, olive oil and rose petals. Then Le Chef prepared seasoned veggies with leeks and couscous in a courgette flower. Everything here has to do with presentation and flowers. Heck, they even offered rose syrup to add to the wine or water. If I was allowed to carry liquids on the plane instead of worrying about them exploding in my checked baggage, I would have bought a few bottles. CREA-T-YVES CULINAIRE, 585 avenue Saint Philippe Bat A Les Grands Pins, 06410 Biot; tel. +33 4 92 11 06 94, Email: info@crea-t-www.yvesculinaire.com.

Note: This trip was sponsored by Maison de la France.

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