Where's Johnny Jet? Discovering St. Kitts for Himself

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Greetings from St. Kitts. Last week, we left off after completing a twelve and a half hour flight from Brisbane to L.A. I wasn't home in California for long, before I knew it, it was back to LAX. What's crazy is that it took three planes to get to St. Kitts and the same amount of time as it did to fly home from Australia. But don't worry. Most visitors will plan better and fly to St. Kitts on days that nonstop flights are operating. Besides, most people are traveling from the east coast and the Midwest. For those folks, it's just a few hours away.

LAX To Miami to San Juan to St. Kitts

I got invited to St. Kitts to experience the island's best hotel, and the weather in L.A. was starting to get cold and rainy so it was a perfect time to head south. To get there from L.A. was a trek because I flew on a day that none of their nonstop flights (from JFK, ATL, MIA) were operating. Therefore, I had to fly four and a half hours to Miami, then two hours to San Juan and one hour and 10 minutes to St Kitts. It actually wasn't that painful because all my connections were tight and they moved like clockwork. It was quite amazing that I was able to get from one flight to the next without breaking stride. What also helped is that I was able to secure bulkhead aisle seats so I actually had more room than the suckers in first class.

You're Going Where?

When I told my friends that I was going to St. Kitts, I was surprised when they asked where it was. "It's two miles (three kilometers) from the island of Nevis," I replied. They looked at me with blank expressions. "The West Indies!" I said. "You're going to Africa?" they asked? "No, dummies. Get a map and learn your geography!" I said. "I'm going to the Caribbean!" The Federation of St. Kitts and Nevis are located in the Leeward Islands in the West Indies. St. Kitts is the larger island with a total area of 101 square miles (261 kilometers). Christopher Columbus supposedly gave the island its name. But back then, he called it San Cristóbal (in Spanish) and it got its name Kitts as this is an old-fashioned abbreviation of the name Christopher.

Did You Know: St. Kitts and Nevis are the smallest nations in the Americas, both in area and population.

St. Kitts

To be honest, I really didn't know much about St. Kitts either, so I was anxious to learn all about it. When I stepped off the ATR plane around 8:30pm I soaked in the warm, welcoming air. The airport was small but customs had four agents working. That was a relief because they took their time with each visitor. Obviously, to travel here, you need a passport and you also need to fill out one of the unusually long customs forms. One of the questions asked, "which countries have you been to in the last 6 weeks?" There was only space for two answers and I had been to a whopping 11 countries in that time. It was mind-boggling even for me to comprehend that I had been to so many places in such a short time but it was even more difficult for the customs agent to comprehend.

St. Kitts Facts

I don't know about you but I get a rush visiting places I have never been to and know nothing about. I quickly learned that most Kittitians (and Nevisians) are of African descent. The official language is English but the locals sometimes communicate with each other in a local patois (they call it Kittitian and Nevisian). Both islands only claimed their independence from the United Kingdom in 1983 (September 19, to be exact.) So that also explains why they drive on the right side. More interesting facts: The literacy rate is 98%. The population of the combined islands is 42,696 (as of July 2005). 33,000 of that population resides in St. Kitts. The official currency is the East Caribbean dollar (XCD) but the US dollar is accepted everywhere.

The Sugar Island

Tourism to these islands is fairly new. Up until two years ago, sugar cane was the number one industry here but with their decrease in profits, the plants have closed and now tourism has taken the top spot.

Did You Know?: The first United States Secretary of the Treasury was Alexander Hamilton, who was born in Nevis.

St. Kitts Marriott Resort

After clearing customs, I was stoked that the drive from the airport to the St. Kitts Marriott Resort was just a quick seven minutes. When we pulled up to the hotel, I couldn't believe how big it was. I wasn't expecting a five-floor building and 513 rooms. I'm not usually a fan of huge hotels unless I'm in a big city but here, it worked, probably because the 26-acre resort was spread out and there was plenty of open air, light and things to do. They have everything a business or leisure traveler could want. Right off the bat, a business traveler who's attending a convention would appreciate the high speed Internet and 38,000 square feet of nine indoor/outdoor meeting rooms. As for the other amenities any traveler would love, read on.

My Room

My fifth floor, standard room was a good size and most importantly, it was clean and comfortable. It had West Indian accents and featured the Marriott's standard plush and cozy Revive bed that I love lounging in. The air conditioning worked well and the brown tiled shower/tub was wide enough so I didn't get any cooties touching the clean shower curtain. The first thing I did after the bellman brought my bags up was order some tasty room service and log on to my computer so I could make some free phone calls through Skype and download my emails.

Casino

After a hot shower, I went down to the Royal Beach Casino to see what was going on down there. It turns out that at 35,000 square feet, it's one of the Caribbean's largest. Yes, the Atlantis in the Bahamas is bigger but the Bahamas is not considered the Caribbean. I learned that from chatting with one of the casino managers. I also learned that they offer the same lines and odds as Vegas. That's unusual for the Caribbean but explains why they get 35 junkets to come down a year. I was impressed ... until I lost all my money on roulette.

Rise and Shine

I love arriving at new destinations at night. First, it's easier to ward off the jet lag because I'm tired after a long day of travel. And secondly, you have no idea what a place looks like until the sun comes up. So when you pull back those blackout curtains for the first time the next morning, it's sort of like opening up a Christmas present. And this view was a keeper. When I laid eyes on the beautiful coastline with its perfectly lush green hills, I felt like I was in the South Pacific. Best of all, most guest rooms include large private balconies for guests to sit out and really take in that view.

Breakfast

Surprisingly, even with the four-hour time change (they are on Standard Time so it's one hour ahead of New York) I woke up at 6am, ready and raring to go. I decided to grab some breakfast but the Calypso Restaurant didn't open up its doors until 6:30am. FYI: There's no need to rush out of bed; they don't stop serving breakfast until 11am. So I took a walk around the property until the clock struck 6:25 and snuck in five minutes early. It felt like a coup. At $21, their breakfast buffet was not cheap but it wasn't outrageously expensive either. For what they were offering it was actually reasonable and besides, I'm a big eater so I got my money's worth. Don't you just hate having that mentality? Because that's how you get fat!

I've got to tell you, I love being the first and only person around to dive into a buffet. And believe me, I went to town. I started off with a sampling of their assorted pastries, then moved over to the fruit. The fruit and orange juice was disappointing. Neither were as fresh or as exotic as I had imagined. However, the pancake/waffle bar with every kind of compote (pineapple, banana, blueberry, coconut …) made up for it. As did the made-to-order omelet and the other selections of hot foods.

The Staff: The staff were friendly but their personalities only seemed to shine through once you broke the ice. I got the impression that visitors don't treat them well so it takes a smile and some small talk to get them going.

Resort Food

The resort has eight restaurants and I ate at five of them. Overall, I'd say that the food is above average. I started off at the Royal Grille Steakhouse, which serves a selection of fine beef (including Kobe), fresh seafood and an international wine list. For an appetizer, I had the yellow pepper soup and an incredible Caesar salad; both were yummy. The bread and sun dried tomato butter were also evil and I could just feel my belt getting tighter. The servers were always present, constantly filling up the water and wine glasses. The other standout restaurant was Blu. It's a fine dining seafood restaurant only open for dinner. I'm not a seafood kind of guy but I sampled the crab appetizer and ahi tuna and they were very good -- even to my finicky taste buds. But I really feasted on the coconut soup and chicken with sweet potato mash. I didn't get a chance to try the Italian restaurant La Cucina, the Bohemia Beach Bar & Grille or the Pizza Shack. But I did have lunch at the golf course's Clubhouse Grille and had the best mojito, made with fresh mint grown on property at the Keys Cigar & Rum Bar. The live Cuban music and Havana cigars didn't hurt, either.

Royal St. Kitss Golf Club

The hotel has a really nice 18-hole golf course. The Royal St. Kitts Golf Club has a par of 71. My shoulder was hurting from playing so much beach volleyball that I only played a couple holes. This is a big draw for visitors and they offer lessons and rentals. They also have a driving range and putting green to sharpen your skills, which I clearly needed. The last four holes are along the Atlantic Ocean and are picturesque. The course and resort is so nice that every April, they have an annual legends tournament where many of the famous retired sports stars (like Bruce Smith, LT and Jim McMahon) come down and play.

The Beach

The west side of St. Kitts borders the Caribbean Sea and the eastern coast faces the Atlantic Ocean. I went down to the beach to check it out and quickly realized that it was open to the public. There were a few riff-raff-looking dudes around and they asked me if I wanted to pet their monkey. I looked at them with disgust. "No, I do not want to pet your monkey." They laughed and said, in their thick Caribbean accents, "We asked if you wanted to take a picture with our monkey?" They pointed to a poor, crazy, bouncy-looking thing chained to a beach umbrella and wearing a diaper small enough to fit a Cabbage Patch doll. I said, "Thanks but no thanks," and kept walking. You see, St. Kitts apparently has more monkeys than humans and you don't see them until you drive around the island. These monkeys were introduced from Africa two centuries ago and are called green vervet monkeys. Although my first impression of the beach wasn't the grandest, it turned out to be very nice. The sand was soft, the women selling knick-knacks were pleasant and the monkey guys were really quite harmless. The best part was that the water was like a big bathtub and there's a giant trampoline float to swim out to. It's so much fun to jump off of.

What to Do

There's a lot more to do at the resort then just lounge around at the beach or pool, play golf, chance your luck at the casino or eat. There are a few shops on property that don't try and rip you off too badly (I bought a medium size toothpaste for $1.50) and a hair salon. For one, this is a family-friendly hotel. They offer a kids' club and an arcade with video games. In addition, they have snorkeling, table tennis, tennis, pool volleyball, a state-of-the-art gym and a 15,000 square foot spa. Nearby activities that can be arranged are hiking, horseback riding, jet-skiing, sailing, scuba diving and a jogging/fitness trail.

Emerald Mist Spa

The Emerald Mist Spa has a sauna, steam room and hot and cold tubs. You know that's where I parked my overstuffed arse one afternoon as I signed up for an $85, 50-minute massage. Right off the bat, I knew I was going to like this place because they didn't make me wear paper underwear like in Malaysia and France. They also had comfortable sandals that actually fit my foot (size 13). The soft, heavy robes you can walk around in made me feel like I was Hugh Hefner and the sheets on the hydraulic massage table were cottony soft. Chloestra, my masseuse, was a tiny woman but strong like Bam Bam. The plush treatment room was nice and dark -- and when she flipped me over, she put a cover on my eyes; this should be standard practice during a massage but it's not done in many places. And how could I not love a masseuse who scratches my head, stretches my limbs and smothers warm oil all over my naked body, then cleans me up with hot steamed towels? St. Kitts Marriott Resort & The Royal Beach Casino, 858 Frigate Bay Road, Frigate Bay, Saint Kitts and Nevis; tel. 1-869/466-1200.

Basseterre

If you don't want to leave the property, I walked around downtown Basseterre which is the largest city and the capital of St Kitts. It's just a 12-minute drive from the hotel but I found absolutely nothing there but a few cool street sellers. Basseterre is a French name that simply means "lowland", a description that must have made its way onto a French sea chart sometime during the late 1620s. Unfortunately, I found it to be dirty, with lots of stray dogs, chickens and not many interesting shops or good places to eat. I walked by the three biggest attractions: the treasury building, St. George's Anglican Church and Independence Square. The latter was built in 1790 for slave auctions but it got its name in 1983 to commemorate the island's independence from Great Britain.

Circus Grill

In Basseterre, I ate lunch at the second floor, open-air, centrally located Circus Grill. The view is excellent but the food was below average. They serve Caribbean and Asian cuisine for very reasonable prices. I had the soup of the day (split pea soup) and it was good but my chicken roti was just okay. But then again, at $3.95, who's complaining? Circus Grill, Bay Road, Basseterre; tel. +1-869/465-0143.

Romney Manor

If you're looking to bring home a St. Kitts souvenir, then consider going to the Caribelle Batik Factory. It's a scenic 20-minute coastal drive from Basseterre on the west side of island where all the rich people live. The entrance to the factory is through a mini rainforest where there are a ton of those monkeys. The store is in a former sugar plantation, up on a hill surrounded by a botanical garden and a 350-year-old sprawling Saman tree. The property was once owned by Sam Jefferson II, the great great great grandfather of Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States, and the house was renamed Romney Manor after its acquisition by the Earl of Romney in the early 17th century. The store and grounds are nice and the prices are reasonable for shirts and the tie-dyed tapestry. They offer free demonstrations of the colorful, tie-dyed clothes being made. Tour Caribelle Batik Factory; tel. +1-869/465-6253.

Brimstone Hill Fortress

I highly recommend visiting the Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park. It's a 45-minute drive from the hotel (down the same scenic coastal drive as Romney Manor) and there are three tight entrances to go through. Once at the top, it's about 800 feet above sea level and I enjoyed incredible views. To my left was the island Nevis and to my right was the island of Saba. Brimstone Hill is so spectacular that UNESCO made it a world heritage site in 1999. The Justification for Inscription Criterion reads, "Brimstone Hill is an outstanding British fortress, built by slave labour to exact standards during a peak period [between the 1690s and 1790s] of European colonial expansion in the Caribbean." I was up there for a party put on by the Marriott. They demonstrated that it would be a fine place to have an unforgettable wedding reception and what a way to spend my last night in St. Kitts.

A Magical Moment

I'm not big on souvenirs so the most memorable thing I brought back from St. Kitts was a moment. It happened while I was out on a sunset catamaran cruise. Nightfall quickly descended upon us and I can still remember lying on the bow, away from my friends who were partying on the deck below. It was a beautiful night and though there was a slight breeze I wasn't cold, not even for a second; the warm ocean air covered my body like a cozy blanket. I was soaking it all in and if it weren't for the shimmering shoreline lights, I wouldn't have been able to see the coastline. There were no other boats around and it was the first time in a long while that I felt truly disconnected from the modern world. My Crackberry was turned off and the only noises I could hear were the muffled sounds of my favorite songs coming from the makeshift dance floor below and the waves crashing against the hull of the boat. I laid back for a moment and that's when the magic happened. The black night sky was dotted with stars. It was indescribable, especially for someone like me, who has a limited vocabulary. But I do know it was one of the top five celestial experiences of my life. And to top it all off, I saw a shooting star.

Note: This trip was sponsored by St. Kitts Marriott Resort.

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