Chamonix (tel. +33 450 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com) is far from the prettiest of European mountain towns, but in every other respect it is an unsurpassed destination for dedicated skiers, snowboarders, and mountaineers. Chamonix is a magnet for serious skiers who are there for challenging terrain and scenery that won't quit.
It is located on the main route from southeastern France to Italy and is dominated by Mont Blanc, western Europe's highest peak. Skis were first brought into this once-remote valley in 1893, the first cable car erected in 1907 and it hosted the very first Olympic Winter Games in 1924. Chamonix has never lost its rep, with its extreme chutes have starred in countless ski films well into the 21st century.
None of the three major lift complexes is within comfortable walking distance of the town center. Topography limits some in size, some are awkward to reach, and some suffer from epic lift lines, but in terms of quality of terrain they serve and real mystique, no place equals Chamonix with miles of marked, groomed pistes and some of the most glorious off-piste terrain on the planet. If you're backcountry skills are strong, gather a group and hire a guide to find the best.
Closest to town, Brévent-La Flégère is known for sunny, south-facing slopes and fabulous views of Mont Blanc. Le Tour/La Balme, though not a beginner area as understood in North America, offers some of Chamonix's easiest terrain. The stunning north-facing Grand Montets above the satellite village of Argentière is known for reliable snow and steep runs. With a lower elevation and trails through the trees, Le Houches is popular when a snowstorm hits and visibility drops. A few small lift complexes in the valley offer beginner terrain, but they are not worth crossing the Atlantic to ski.
It is worth traveling far to experience the awesome Vallée Blanche, the world's longest lift-served run. From the 12,606-foot top station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car, it's 13 stunning off-piste miles to the valley below. Guides lead groups through its vast whiteness. It is necessary to navigate safely though the Glacier du Géant's maze of crevasses and around the seracs and ice fall near the glacier's foot. It's a relief to reach the Mer de Glace, a gentle ballroom where skis run and egos soar. These days, it is common to run of snow 2,400 vertical feet above the valley floor. Several flights of stairs and a short gondola lead to the top of the Montenvers cog railway, celebrating its centennial this year, for the ride down to the valley.
Buses reach all the ski areas in the valley, and also to other nearby villages with their own lift systems -- and even to Courmayeur, Italy, on the other end of the Mont Blanc Tunnel. La Balme is practically in Switzerland. Most people decide in the morning and stay there all day. The two main multi-day lift passes are the ChamSki Pass for the valley's main areas; the Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass includes the Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers train and Courmayeur. The Ski Pass Mont-Blanc adds all other ski resorts in the region (Combloux, Cordon/Sallanches, Les Contamines, Les Houches, Megève, Passy, Praz sur Arly and Saint-Gervais), ideal for anyone planning a longer ski getaway.
Chamonix is just 53 miles from Geneva-Cointrin Airport. From Paris, the TGV serves that corner of France, with easy connections to the railroad station in the center of Chamonix. Winter visitors tend to ski hard and play hard, so a lively night scene prevails. Other winter diversions include cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, dogsledding, paragliding and of course, indulging in rich, stomach- and soul-satisfying Savoyarde cuisine.
Chamonix Stats
Lifts: 7 cable cars, 2 rack-and-pinion railways, 17 chairlifts, 11 surface lifts
Pistes: 145 (52% beginner to intermediate; 36% intermediate to advanced; 12% expert)
Terrain Parks: 1 new terrain park
Vertical: 9,209 feet (from the 12,605-foot top of the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the valley at 3,396 feet)
