What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Egypt

Egypt is famous for being a low-cost destination, but prices are beginning to go up. The most important factor is the rise in global oil prices, but recent government steps to reduce subsidies on a range of consumer goods (including cigarettes, bread, and gasoline) are also driving prices upward. Expect to see 10-15 % increases in base rates for hotels and transport. While the increases haven't affected the price of dining yet, this can't be too far down the road.

The rising cost of living has also put pressure on a government that lacks domestic legitimacy, and there have been signs of popular unrest. The usual security crackdowns have taken place and the opposition figures have been rounded up, but it is unclear whether these measures have assuaged concerns about a reoccurrence of terrorist attacks on facilities in busy Red Sea resorts like Dahab, Taba and Sharm el Sheikh.

The good news is that price increases are offset by a relative increase in the value of U.S. dollar, and that serious disturbances, let alone terrorist attacks, remain a remote possibility. This aside, Egypt has been such a good deal for so long now that it's going to take more than a minor cost increase before it ceases to be excellent value for your holiday dollars.

Planning Your Trip

Both bus and plane tickets have been subject to price increases in the last few months, so you can expect to pay around 15 % more for getting from place to place. The exception (so far) is the sleeper train to Upper Egypt, which is still charging $120/$80 for double and single accommodations, respectively.

While the new facilities at Cairo International Airport aren't slated to be fully operational until the fall, service is improving incrementally. The shiny new arrivals hall in Terminal 1 is a huge improvement, but of more practical importance is a phone service that lets you check your flight's status. Dial 09/007 7777 from a landline or 2777 from a local mobile to find out what's going on.

Cairo

My favorite chain in the whole world, Wagamama, has (finally) arrived in Egypt. There can be little better news for Cairene diners, who have long sought in vain for a source of reasonably priced healthy food. The bad news is that it's a little out of the way -- it's located at the City Stars Mall (www.citystars.com.eg) in the northern suburb of Heliopolis, close to Cairo International Airport -- but is open from 11am till midnight.

The big accommodation news in Cairo is the arrival of prohibition at the Grand Hyatt Cairo. The hotel's Saudi owner reportedly ordered staff to dump the entire inventory of beer, wine and hard liquor down the drains back in May, and local scuttlebutt assessed the damage at over $1 million worth of booze. Negotiations continue, but Hyatt has no word on when you might be able to get a drink at any of the hotel's outlets. For the time being, the nearby Four Seasons or the Sofitel Gezirah look like the best alternatives if you want a glass of champagne in your room when you arrive.

After more than a century of uncertainty, visitors can see the mummy of Hatshepsut. This 18th Dynasty queen, whose temple complex in Luxor is a must-see for Egyptology buffs, has finally been positively identified using DNA and will soon be receiving visitors at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

Makan -- which just means "place" in Arabic -- is a little spot close to the Saad Zagloul metro stop in downtown Cairo. It has actually been around for a couple of years, but now this tiny club's expanding bill and devotion to traditional Egyptian music are really making it worth a visit. Their website (www.egyptmusic.org) will give you basic information, but you're better off phoning them at 02/27920878 for specifics.

And if Cairo's summer isn't sultry enough already, try the salsa lessons at the Nile Hilton's Jazz Up bar. They run Sunday and Friday night between 8pm and 10pm and Monday between 7:30pm and 9:30pm.

The Sinai Peninsula

If you're out in Dahab, there are two new restaurants to check out. The Seventh Heaven Hotel (Assala, next to the big boat; tel. 069/3640080) has a Chinese restaurant that has quickly gained a reputation for good food at a good price. Try the sweet and sour chicken. The other place that's generating buzz is a sushi restaurant called Sushinami, which imported its chef from London. It's on Fanar Road in the Alf Leila Bed and Breakfast (tel. 069/3640595), and is open noon to 11pm daily except for Friday.

If you're looking for a more authentic local experience while you're on the Sinai, check out the Bedouin Café in Wadi Bidar, close to Dahab. It's run by the Sheikh Salem House (tel. 069/3641820; www.sheikhsalemhouse.com),, and if you don't fancy figuring out the taxi ride by yourself, contact them for arrangements.

Last but not least, Vanilla, the ice-cream outlet at the Camel Dive Center and Hotel (tel. 069/3600700; www.cameldive.com) in Sharm el Sheik has begun selling ice cream in heat-proof take-out containers. This may not sound like big news at first, but wait 'til you've tried the over-priced alternatives at the beach.

The Red Sea Coast

If you're in Hurghada, the newly made-over marina complex (www.hurghadamarina.com) is worth checking out both for chilled-out dining and shopping, and for the revved up nightlife. I particularly recommend trying the soon to be open Bistro Del Mar and B's At The Marina, both run by local restaurateurs with track records of producing unusually good food.

The Western Desert

Meanwhile, out in the Western Desert, the excellent Badawiya Hotel ( tel. 02/25260994; www.badawiya.com), in the oasis of Farafra is opening a branch in Dakhla, a larger oasis to the south. Located in the village of Qasr, and opening in time for the fall tourist season, the new Badawiya will be equipped with a swimming pool, a hot spring and an organic farm to supply its food.