Philoxenia, the tradition of giving a warm and generous welcome to visitors, has a long tradition in Greece. Almost every visitor comes home with at least one story of an encounter with a local who didn't just give him directions, but walked him to his destination. Many who visit Greece at Easter find themselves included in local celebrations, wined and dined by Greeks who see themselves as honor-bound to welcome the stranger as their honored guest. Today, as Greece faces enormous economic difficulties -- including record-breaking unemployment -- it is especially important for those of us who head there on holiday to be sensitive to Greece's problems.
Almost everyone you will meet, from taxi drivers to waiters, from bus drivers to hotel owners, has at least one family member who has lost his job, or seen his pension cut in half. A good word to remember and use when you hear about someone's troubles is Krima, pronounced "KREE-ma," which means "What a shame," and conveys sympathy. And, if you can get the names and addresses of those who show you philoxenia, it never hurts to send a note of thanks when you get back home. If you can include photos you took of your Greek good Samaritans, all the better.
It's quite possible that many visitors to Greece will be able to go their way unimpeded by and possibly even unaware of the economic problems. That said, we here offer some practical advice both about what to expect and how to deal with the unexpected in order to enjoy your visit to Greece.
1. Economic turmoil has led to closures and openings: Greece has been in a state of turmoil in recent years -- the media has been full of reports and images of demonstrations, strikes, and work stoppages. But these have been largely confined to Athens and a few other large cities and -- with some exceptions (see below) -- there has been little impact on tourists. Some hotels have closed, but there's still a more than adequate number of choices. Many shops have had to shut down, but for the most part, not the kind that tourists patronize. Some restaurants have closed but this still leaves more then enough to serve and satisfy all tourists. If, however, the hotel or restaurant you had hoped to visit has closed, you can find many alternatives among the Frommer's recommendations.
2. You should plan around work stoppages or strikes: Some airplane flights and ferryboat sailings have been canceled, and some museums and archaeological sites have been briefly closed. Such disruptions usually last only a day or so, but you will want to be prepared to minimize their effect on your visit. It's more important than ever to prioritize the goals of your trip -- that is, plan your itinerary and schedule around the places you most want to visit. Then, if at all possible, allow some extra time for your visit to Greece -- even a day or two. In any case, on arrival at your hotel, inquire if there are any work stoppages or strikes being planned so that you can adjust your plans. And if an unexpected work stoppage or strike occurs, have alternatives in mind: no flight off an island? Take a ferry. A museum closed? Take that day trip you had planned for the next day.
3. Watch the value of the dollar and the Euro: Given the harsh realities of the current economic situation in Greece, many hotels and some restaurants are lowering their prices in 2012, but Greeks are already suffering from drastic cuts in wages so this is not the time to haggle over everything. As always, it is a good idea to double-check Greek hotel prices, which often fluctuate from the rack rate. Nowadays for many of you this will mean using Internet searches. If you do benefit from lower prices due to Greece's economic difficulties, you may feel that you can be more generous in what you leave as a tip for the concierge, chambermaid, or waiter. Also keep posted on possibly greater-than-usual fluctuations of the Euro -- and bring some U.S. dollars or British pounds in case ATMs are down for some period or if Greece were to leave the Euro zone.
4. There are new opportunities for New Age escapes: In recent years, we've seen a number of retreats and farms in Greece offering yoga, meditation, agrotourism and creative writing. If you'd rather stretch out on a yoga mat than stand upright on a surf board, check out Eumelia (www.eumelia.com), in the Peloponnese south of Sparta, which focuses both on agrotourism and the manufacture and sale of organic produce (olive oil, herbs, etc). There are frequent workshops and varied seminars (2011 had a number of offerings, including a raw vegan cooking seminar& as well as a tango workshop). Limnisa (Creative Holidays by the Sea; www.limnisa.com) has scheduled a number of silent retreats, writing retreats and workshops by the sea near Methana, in the east Peloponnese, near the island of Poros. On Chios, Masticulture and Ecotourism Activities (www.masticulture.com) has a range of tours and activities that let visitors participate in the mastic and wine harvests and learn about local pottery, cooking, and customs on this large wooded island. (Mastic is an aromatic resin that is harvested from the barks of Mediterranean evergreens).
5. If the Acropolis is closed, all is not lost: If you find yourself in Athens on a day when the Acropolis and Ancient Agora are closed, check to see whether the Acropolis Museum is open. Often it remains open when the Agora, Acropolis, and National Archaeological Museum are closed. If the Acropolis Museum is open, you can enjoy a superb view of the Acropolis and a snack at the excellent museum café. If the Acropolis Museum is also closed, console yourself with sweets at Cake, a new sweet shop on Fokianou Street, off nearby Ermou Street. Still hungry? Not in the mood for another Greek salad? You can get a big pastrami sandwich or a hearty meal on nearby Aesopou Street at Gostijo, Athens' first kosher restaurant (open Sunday for lunch and dinner; other days from 5pm; closed Fridays).
