Its Adriatic Coast ("Dalmatia") is -- according to many observers, including myself -- the most scenically awesome in all the world. Its stately capital, Zagreb, and its timeless fishing villages, are a delight. Its Dubrovnik is a perfectly-preserved medieval knockout. And its prices are among the lowest on all the continent.

From September 29 to October 31, Paul Laifer will fly you there from New York and from place to place in Croatia, supplying hotels, sightseeing and more for 9 nights (consisting of 2 nights in Zagreb, 4 nights in Dubrovnik, and 3 nights in Split), for $1,989 per person. He'll do the same from November 1 to December 10, and from January 3 to March 31 (when it's often mild along the Dalmatian coast, and never bitter), for $1,649 per person. His company, Paul Laifer Tours of Parsippany, New Jersey (tel. 800/346-6314 or 973/887-1188; www.laifertours.com), has been sending thousands to central and eastern Europe for seemingly forever, and you couldn't find a better firm to supply the basic ingredients of an exciting autumn trip to the still-balmy cities of Zagreb, Dubrovnik, and Split.

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