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Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer OnlineComments, opinion and advice from the founder of Frommer's Travel Guides
Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer Online

Jul 6, 2007

Ferry tale: Sail the Alaskan ferries for low prices and authenticity

The bulk of Americans taking cruises off the coast of Alaska are passengers on big-name, 14-story-high ships carrying at least two thousand passengers and sometimes more. Every morning, they flood into the various port cities of Alaska, cameras in hand, wallets at the ready, buses awaiting them, and then -- late afternoon -- they escape back into the ship's world of food, Las Vegas-style acts, and general luxury. At night, travelers squint at the humpbacks and glaciers through the small portholes of pricey outside cabins.

You might want to consider a more adventurous approach to the 49th state: the Alaska Marine Highway System. Since almost all of Alaska's Southeastern cities are blocked from each other by impassable terrain and an absence of roads, ferries are often the only mode of travel. Several times a week, the ferries transport several hundred passengers (and quite a few cars) in between various cities: Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Juneau, Haines, Skagway, and sometimes Sitka.

The advantage of the Marine Highway over the big-name cruises? Authenticity, flexibility, and low price. You, not the execs at Holland America, decide where to go and what to see. The digs aren't exactly glamorous, but that's also the point for many travelers. There are no discos or casinos, just some lounges, bars, a cafeteria area, and a million dollar view. There are also cabins available for those who require walls, a private bath, and a bed for overnight trips.

For everyone else, there's simply a deck and an open sky. Many choose to sleep in chairs or set up tents affixed to the deck by duct tape. This is the allure of the ferries -- the adventure, the possibility of meeting local people, the hands-on approach to travel.

For ferry fees and schedules, call the Alaska Marine Highway System at tel. 800/642-0066 or log on to www.ferryalaska.com.

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