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Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer OnlineComments, opinion and advice from the founder of Frommer's Travel Guides
Arthur Frommer Online
Arthur Frommer Online

Jan 4, 2008

Why do so many Americans choose the island of Aruba for their Caribbean vacations?

Though it's full of casino nuts (the types who remain at the gaming tables until 4am, then sleep until 2pm before re-entering the casinos), a favorite of people whom you wouldn't want to associate with (one of the reasons I no longer go there), this island in the Netherlands Antilles has one countervailing advantage: some of the world's great coastal beaches. The two main beaches of Aruba -- Palm Beach and Eagle Beach -- are a deep expanse of fine white sand stretching for miles and lined with modern hotels (each one with a giant casino). Detractors call it "Las Vegas in the Caribbean," but Vegas doesn't have such a beach -- the key reason for the island's heavy tourist numbers.

Tourism is supported here by elaborate resorts; more modest hotels and inns; happening nightspots; plenty of dining both plain and fancy; those flashy casinos; and fab duty-free shopping.

As for those beaches: gorgeous, powdery Palm Beach north of Oranjestad is where all the bigger resorts are located, while equally attractive Eagle Beach tends to sport more of the lower-key, lower-rise type.

It's true (I've got to be fair) that there's plenty of good sightseeing both cultural and natural. Of the former, check out Oranjestad's Fort Zoutman, or the archaeological museum. Nature, though, is where Aruba especially shines: the craggily dramatic north coast boasts a natural bridge affording spectacular photo ops, and you can also roam the cactus-lined byways of the desert-like interior, including 54-square-mile Arikok Park, an aloe farm/museum/factory, caves, and even an ostrich farm. But the problem remains: too many mindless sorts attracted there by casino gambling. You'll find better companions on the islands that don't permit casino gambling.

You can arrange it all yourself -- flying down on a number of the major U.S. and Canadian airlines -- or look for package deals from outfits like Funjet (tel. 800/558-3050; www.funjet.com), Inter-Island Tours (tel. 800/245-3434; www.interislandtours.com), Liberty Travel/Gogo Worldwide Vacations (tel. 800/271-1584; www.libertytravel.com), and Travel Impressions (tel. 800/284-0044; www.travimp.com).

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What went on in travel during the period of our holiday hiatus?

We took off for vacation from the day before Christmas till the day after the New Year's holiday. What went on (in travel) while we were gone? Plenty.

As if the sinking of the longtime Antarctic expedition ship known as the MS Explorer wasn't sufficiently disturbing, still another Antarctic vessel (the Fram of Hurtigruten Lines, formerly Norwegian Coastal Voyages) hit an iceberg in Antarctic waters, suffered considerable damage, returned immediately to port (fortunately, without injuries to any passenger), and has been temporarily taken out of the sailing schedule to permit repairs. This is all a dramatic lesson that Antarctic cruises aren't the picnics they are portrayed, and entail some element of danger. (Just prior to hitting the iceberg, the Fram lost all power -- and maritime investigators will also be pondering that mystery.)

Another tragedy? Maxjet, the heavily-advertised new trans-Atlantic airline for luxury-loving, business-class passengers, went bankrupt and ceased operation. Its amenities, apparently, weren't luxurious enough for the hedge fund managers, heirs, heiresses, and other types that book this sort of super-premium crossing of the Atlantic. The latter continue to flock, it seems, to the much more expensive Eos and Silverjet Airlines that provide them with fully-reclining beds and other attentions, for which they pay as much as $3,000 each way, as compared with the paltry $1,500 charged by the now-defunct Maxjet. My tears are flowing.

The airfare aggregator known as Kayak (www.kayak.com) acquired the longer-established airfare aggregator known as SideStep (www.sidestep.com), to form a mighty and much larger aggregator (an "aggregator" doesn't sell tickets, but simply collects and reveals all the cheapest airfares and then tells you where you can go to purchase them). The newly-merged and brand-new giant aggregator is claiming it will soon surpass Expedia in sales -- which seems all to the good. (Too many questions abound as to whether Expedia, Travelocity and Orbitz are really presenting you with unbiased, impartial airfare data. The aggregators seem much more all-inclusive and of greater use by cost-conscious travelers.)

And finally, as you know from the front-page headlines (and our post of yesterday), the beginnings of a civil war seem evident in Kenya, temporarily removing that nation from tourism.

While most of the news has been bad, I'll be on the lookout for emerging bargains and travel opportunities, and I expect a lot of them in the coming days. Happy New Year!

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The ATM machine is the smart means for changing your dollars overseas

Commenting on my recent blog about foreign currency exchange rates, a number of readers have all emphasized the wisdom of using ATM machines overseas for such transactions -- and never going to a commercial money changer, like the kiosks found in tourist areas or in airports. "An exchange bureau," wrote one reader "is liable to sell currency at loan shark rates. I priced British pounds at O'Hare and Heathrow and found rates [currency charges] ranging from 8.4% to 16.4%. That would make a $1.99 pound cost up to $2.31636!"

By contrast, said the same reader, "a reasonable ATM charge of 3% over the rate shown at www.xe.com gets you Euros for $1.5141," not the higher amount charged by the money-changing booths.
As usually happens in discussions of this sort, the same readers recommended using a Capital One credit card for credit card transactions overseas -- confirming that no foreign currency charge is incurred when you do so. Thus, "a $1.99 pound costs $1.99, a $1.47 Euro costs $1.47 with Capital One." Has anyone had experience to the contrary?

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There are so few remaining discounts for senior travelers that I can cover them in 2 short paragraphs

People over the ages of 62 or 65 used to receive substantial discounts from the airlines and other travel suppliers. Today, the pickings are slimmer, but there do remain a handful of advantages for the mature American.

The National Park Service's Golden Age Passport costing only $10 and allowing unlimited lifetime admission to the National Parks, is the preeminent perk. It can only be obtained in person at one of the parks. Runner-up is Amtrak's discount of 15% for persons 62 and older, available on every train other than the weekday Acela, the Auto Train, and sleeper cars. Greyhound gives 10% off for seniors, Avis gives them 5% to 20% off, and Club Med claims to have senior reductions as great as 30%.

With more and more of the nation's population entering the category of "seniors," other travel suppliers are surely missing a bet by not publicizing an attractive discount program that will lure these dynamic vacationers to their products.


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Jan 3, 2008

U.S. population growth defies the arguments put forth by Amtrak opponents

The enemies of Amtrak are constantly arguing that the United States is different from Europe, that we do not possess the population density that would make a widespread rail system sensible. They are apparently unaware of recent demographic trends resulting in a nation of 303,152,000 people, of which the vast majority are concentrated in the eastern half of the country, along the southernmost strip of the "sunbelt," and along the west coast. In these areas, a use of train transportation is just as sensible and feasible as anywhere in Europe.

Take out a map of the United States. Starting at the northernmost tip of the mid-west, draw a somewhat jagged north/south line starting at Duluth, Minnesota, and then proceeding downwards through Minneapolis, Des Moines, Omaha, Kansas City, Joplin, Tulsa, Oklahoma City, Fort Worth, Austin and San Antonio. Everything to the east of that line -- nearly half the United States -- is a place of intense population density growing "thicker" by the day.

Now add to that vast swath of the United States the southernmost area of the sunbelt, going across the bottom of the U.S. to San Diego, and then up the entire west coast to Seattle. That, too, is a place of population density that can well support an efficient rail system.

Recently, the National Association of Railroad Passengers, which has fought for 40 years to extend and expand the Amtrak system, published a map showing the railroad routes that it would add to the present inadequate network of passenger tracks. The web of rail lines that resulted are found in the population-dense areas I have just described. If these new routes were to be built for high-speed rail, we would have something close to an adequate rail system, and would not have to cram the airports of our country with anxious passengers sweating out the delays and cancellations that now afflict our air traffic. We would restore a decent quality of travel life -- and greatly improve our own lives. And we would do this for a fraction of the money we now spend on extending highways.

Several members of Congress -- members of both the House and Senate -- currently delight in proposing an elimination of funding for Amtrak. Let's make them aware that we know who they are -- and that we're coming after them.

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Though everyone is glibly referring to the "Mayan Riviera," what exactly is it?

What exactly is the Mayan Riviera, asks a reader? Strictly as a matter of geography, it's Mexico's stretch of Caribbean coastline starting just below Cancún and proceeding southward to Tulum. But in terms of substance, it is one of the world's fastest-growing resort hotspots, ranging from enormous all-inclusives (both moderately and exorbitantly priced) to exclusive and secluded boutique properties.
Cheaper digs are found in the main town of this "Riviera," which is bustling, nightlife-filled Playa del Carmen. There, options include both funky, inexpensive little inns and pricier hipster hotels (there's also Puerto Morelos, a smaller, more laid-back town closer to Cancún).

The beaches along this coast aren't its main draw -- if you want to get wet, it'll most likely be in a pool -- but there's a full panoply of fun activities, including famous eco-parks such as Aktun Chen, Tres Ríos, and the glitzier Xel-Ha and Xcaret (where you can snorkel among many other things).

The giant inland area -- the Yucatán Peninsula -- is more important than that strip of beach. What makes it special are its many ancient, awesome ruins of the sophisticated Maya civilization -- the observatory, ballplaying court and stepped pyramids of Chichén Itzá are the most famous, but there are numerous other ruins both on the coast and inland (Uxmal, Palenque, Cobá, Ek Balam, and Tulum, with its spectacular seaside setting. You can overnight at lodgings near most of them, but they're also doable in day trips from the Maya Riviera, Cancún, and the Spanish-colonial-flavored capital of the Yucatan, Mérida.

Another very atmospheric lodging option is the network of inns occupying restored haciendas (colonial-era estates) in the interior, such as Xcanatún, Yaxcopoil, and Ketanchel.

Packagers covering the Yucatan include Pleasant Holidays (tel. 800/742-9244; www.pleasantholidays.com) and Trek America (tel. 800/873-5872; www.trekamerica.com),but you can also fly there yourself via Cancún (with the most direct flights from the U.S. and Canada, on many carriers) or Mérida (via Mexico City); there's regular bus service throughout the peninsula and driving is fairly easy.

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At least temporarily, Kenya has been eliminated as a destination for African safaris

As you would expect, all the tour operators to Kenya are downplaying the dangers posted to tourists from the outbreak of violence over disputed elections. "It's all hoo-haa." "It happens every time they vote." "It doesn't affect the safari areas." "You are met at the airport and immediately transferred to a lodge outside Nairobi -- there's no danger."

I'm not so sure. The violence in Kenya seems of a special order that hasn't ever been experienced at that level of civil warfare. It has thus far claimed hundreds of lives, and reflects ancient ethnic enmities between the dominant Kikuyu faction and the less powerful Luo tribes (like Sunnis against Shiites). Mobs of young men have sallied forth from their communities to club opponents and destroy property. And the government's clumsy effort to steal the election seem so obvious as to insure a continuation of the violence for weeks to come. I presently would not go to Kenya.

And that's a shame. Because Kenya offers the best wildlife viewing at the lowest-prices for safaris in all of Africa. Currently, a weeklong safari in Kenya is on offer for about $2,399 per person (from companies like Lion World Travel of Toronto, www.lionworldtravel.com), including round-trip airfare from New York and several days of all-inclusive arrangements in the games parks of the Maasai Mara.

So what's your recourse? Botswana offers similar wildlife viewing, but Botswana is an unusually expensive destination, and has been kept that way by the tour operators, who have never offered an affordable air-and-land package there. Tanzania has the same giant migrations of wildlife crossing its territory as Kenya does, but there are no inexpensive group tour programs known to me that go directly to Tanzania without first passing through Kenya.

The one, near-budget alternative is a quick-trip to South Africa that combines a several-day stay in Cape Town with a two-night excursion within wildlife-viewing areas nearby. This one is called "South Africa in Style," it's operated by LionWorld Travel, of Toronto, and has an opening price of $1,999 plus tax in May. The program includes roundtrip airfare on South African Airways from either New York City or Washington, D.C., four nights at the five-star "12 Apostles and Spa" in Cape Town, including breakfast each morning, two nights at the Jackalberry Private Game Reserve on a full-board basis, all internal flights, all transfers, and a half-day tour of Cape Town. That's an absolute wow of a price for such comprehensive, quality features.

A variation on the "South Africa in Style" program is also available in May at $2,399 plus tax, which includes four nights at the Cape Cadogan Hotel in Cape Town, and two nights at the Lion Sands Private Game Reserve in the Sabi Sand region, with all internal flights and transfers.

Until matters calm themselves in Kenya, this is about the only affordable way to enjoy a safari-like experience (as short as it is) in Africa. For more information, either go to the Lion World website (see above) or call them toll-free for more details at tel. 888/722-4872.

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We are a nation wedded to the airplane, and thus unable to cope when the weather prevents airplanes from flying

The holidays are over, and if you're like me, you've heard dozens of stories from relatives and friends about the nightmares they encountered in trying to fly home for those holidays.

Flights canceled by the hundreds. Flight delays causing missed connections. New York airports busing passengers to less crowded airports in Philadelphia. Chicago airports desperately seeking to accommodate stranded passengers in nearby hotels. Infants squealing, toddlers screaming. Snowstorms causing hundreds of cancelled flights in Chicago, and thus backing up traffic all over the nation. Similar crises at a dozen other major cities in the Midwest.

Note that most of these problems were weather-related and therefore won't ever be fixed by adjusting flight schedules, improving air traffic controls, using larger airplanes, or adopting all the other measures that earnest pundits are proposing. They are problems that arise from our decision to move people almost entirely by air -- thus putting all our eggs in one basket. And they are problems that other, wiser, nations avoid by maintaining an adequate rail system.

Unless and until Amtrak is expanded and turned into a high-speed system, we will continue to experience periodic nightmares at our airports.

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Jan 2, 2008

There's been an interesting response to my list of 10 New Year's Resolutions for travel

My final post on the eve of temporarily shutting down for the holidays was a list of my own New Year's Resolutions for travel. I also read them aloud on my Sunday radio broadcast. Surprisingly, they touched off a great many responses in which readers or listeners set forth their own Resolutions for Travel in 2008.

The single most popular resolution, endlessly modified and altered, dealt with the ethical imperative to leave a tip for the hotel chambermaid. Quite obviously, we have all felt guilt on those occasions when we failed to leave money for the people who work so hard for so little. And many times, we have rationalized away that failure by dwelling on the point that the chambermaid who cleaned our room might not be on duty on the morning when we checked out.

So leave the tip, every day, under the pillow, was a customary response. That way, the person cleaning the room that day was bound to get it. (Some listeners felt there was still a danger that the chambermaid might be accused of pocketing cash that the guest had negligently left behind; so leave the tip in an enveloped marked "For the chambermaid").

Second most popular Resolution from readers or radio listeners: I resolve never to place my luggage on a seat in the airport, thus blocking its use by other persons (or forcing them to ask, "Is this seat taken?"). One reader suggested the Resolution was also applicable to conduct in a motion picture theater.

Other popular resolutions: "I resolve to take substantial reading matter (especially, a long novel) to the airport, even for flights of only two hours' duration." Why? Because with all the flight delays, even such a short trip may require that you wait for several hours -- and thus you'll need that kind of pleasurable distraction, which can't be supplied by reading quickly-exhausted newspapers and magazines.

"I resolve to change my credit card to one that earns frequent flyer mileage." (One reader pointed out that such credit cards carry burdensome fees, and therefore the Resolution was advisable only for people who immediately pay off their credit card balance, in full, each month).

"I will never again book one of those blankety-blank, accursed, 'boutique hotels' with their tiny, pod-like rooms, lack of adequate reading lamps or chairs, and futuristic (and therefore unusable) bathroom sinks."

"I will never again book a hotel without interrogating the telephone reservationist about any hidden fees at that hotel. And if there's a single one, I will cancel my reservation."

And I resolve not to afflict you again with a list of New Year's Resolutions for travel. At least not until next year.

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Prague in a nutshell -- the reasons why you go there


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I am constantly asked, "What's so special about Prague." "What exactly does it offer?"

You start with visual magnificence. Conventional wisdom has it that Paris is the most beautiful city in Europe if not the world. But when you lay eyes on "Magical Prague," your jaw will literally drop. The central parts of the booming capital of Eastern Europe's Czech Republic are a striking mix of medieval, 19th century, Art Deco, and cutting-edge mod (check out Frank Gehry's "Fred and Ginger" building).

A stroll across the Moldau River along the Gothic Charles Bridge, with Hradcany Castle looming on the hilltop before you, is like wandering a Brother's Grimm fairytale. You should, first, roam Hradcany's mysterious cobblestone "Alchemists' Lane" and witness its toy-soldier-like changing of the guard; marvel at the graceful Gothic tracery of St. Agnes Monastery; watch the city hall's astronomical clock's fanciful figures (human and otherwise) dance in the arcade-lined Old Town Square every hour; explore the Jewish quarter with its spooky-cool cemetery and ancient synagogues; quaff Pilsner beer (it was invented here) or sup on goulash and roast goose under the stone barrel vaults of medieval cellar restaurants and pubs; and sip mulled wine or Becherovka herb liqueur in magnificent Belle Époque cafés.

The Czech Republic's in the European Union but not on the euro till 2009, so for now, while lodging has gotten generally pricier, you can still find good deals (consider apartment rentals), and in many places meals and attractions are still thumping bargains. Don't forget to schedule some time for day and overnight trips through lyrical countryscapes to magnificent castles (Konopiste, Karlstejn) and towns (e.g. the gracious spa city of Karlový Vary, the beermaking centers of Plzen and Ceské Budejovice, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Ceský Krumlov and Telc).

Most tour operators cover Prague; specialists include General Tours (tel. 800/221-2216; www.generaltours.com) and Paul Laifer Tours (tel. 800/346-6314; www.laifertours.com). But independent travel is a cinch, as well; there are direct flights via CSA (tel. 800/223-2365; www.csa.cz/en) and Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com). Get more info in the U.S. at 212/288-0830, in Canada at 416/363-9928, or at www.visitczech.cz.

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A travel secret: it's Umbria (and especially the town of Gubbio), not Tuscany, where you'll more easily capture the culture of Italy

The big and famous tourist towns of Italy's Tuscany have unbeatable attractions and undeniable allure. But their very popularity makes it often difficult to have a unique experience or truly sample the culture. It's in the smaller, less-trafficked towns of nearby Umbria, where tourists are more of a welcome novelty, that the visitor can more easily find ways to engage the local culture.

Take the example of ancient Gubbio, set at the edge of the Abruzzi Mountains high in Northern Umbria. Like other towns in Central Italy, it offers a mix of fine wines, hearty Italian food, ancient Etruscan remains and Roman ruins, and a medieval atmosphere, yet it draws a mere fraction of the crowds that often plague its neighbors. The few intrepid travelers who make the trip here can not only enjoy an Italian hill town charm without the tour bus crowds (and at the slightly reduced prices that come with staying off the tourist track), but also gain invaluable cultural insight via a whole host of activities.

While most tourists merely admire Italy's hand-painted ceramics and lush Renaissance frescoes, or enjoy pasta dishes decorated with precious shaved truffles, the city of Gubbio offers visitors the chance to sample these aspects of Italian life and culture via a series of inexpensive, single-day classes held in conjunction with the private agency known as "In Umbria da Nord Est" (tel. 011-39-075-922-0066; www.inumbria.net/eng_fr_servizi.htm),

Among the courses: the making of the ceramics for which Gubbio is famous (€12-€25), fresco painting (€15), mosaic crafting (€20), cooking (€8 for breads, €55 for more complex courses), and even truffle hunting (€10). Gubbio's mountainous locale also makes it a mini-Mecca for certain outdoor sports, and this initiative offers sampler days of mountain biking (€13), horseback riding (€15), canyoning (€35), and hang-gliding (€65).


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If you've been heartened by reports about a rise of the U.S. Dollar against the British Pound, calm down -- it doesn't amount to much

Because of a ditsy rumor that the British Pound has "crashed" against the U.S. dollar, it's appropriate to update our earlier posts about the plight of the U.S. dollar. Nothing really has changed, and the Dollar is still at its weakest level in years.

It's true that the Dollar has strengthened in recent weeks against the Pound, but not to the extent that would matter on your own trip. Because financial experts feel that British banks are about to suffer the same write-downs that U.S. banks were forced to make as a result of their investments in securities backed by sub-prime mortgages, the British Pound has recently fallen to a level of One Pound = $1.99, from an earlier level of One Pound=$2.07. But by the time you pay commissions and fees to the money changers when you actually exchange your dollars into pounds, you will still end up paying about $2.10 for a Pound. And that's a disastrous exchange. When you see a price in Britain, you must still multiply by two to get the approximate U.S. dollar equivalent.

As for all other European currencies, the Dollar remains unchanged from its dismal, dreary levels of late. The best website for the actual figures is www.xe.com. There you'll discover that a Euro costs $1.47. Meaning, that when you add the commissions and fees you incur in changing your money at a "Change" kiosk or bank, you are paying considerably more than $1.50 for one Euro. And thus you need add 50% to every Euro price to obtain the dollar equivalent. A twin-bedded room in a European guesthouse priced at 130 Euros is costing you about $200.

So there it is. When there is better news to report, I'll rush to do so.

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