Our country is dotted with some 30 large, historic, self-contained, inland resorts, each operated for nearly 100 years. And during the months of October and November, most of them go into an "off-season" or "shoulder season" mode of relatively inexpensive prices. Though none of them is dirt cheap at any time, they provide such glorious leisure stays as to justify this once-only departure from strict budget standards.

I like three giant western resorts in particular:

The Bishop's Lodge (tel. 800/732-2240 or 505/983-6377; www.bishopslodge.com), on Bishop's Lodge Road, three miles from downtown Santa Fe, New Mexico, was first the 19th century hillside retreat and chapel of Jean Baptiste Lamy, the first archbishop of Santa Fe, New Mexico, and hero of Willa Cather's 1927 novel, Death Comes For The Archbishop; his original buildings are well preserved and a popular site for weddings. The complex was later expanded onto over a thousand acres and by the addition of 88 rooms and suites in eleven guest buildings or "lodgings" faced with adobe, earth-colored, and stunningly decorated inside with Southwestern furnishings. The chief activity is horseback riding conducted along multiple trails through the canyons and foothills of the Sangre de Cristos mountains (trained cowboys accompany you and prepare cookouts for meals); but there are also four tennis courts, skeet and trap shooting, a heated outdoor pool, indoor whirlpool and saunas, exercise room, children's play area, and numerous hiking opportunities. From early October through the end of November, standard rooms (there are also suites and deluxe rooms) rent for about $209 on weekdays, $229 weekends.

Sun Valley Resort (tel. 800/786-8259 or 208/622-4111; www.sunvalley.com), in Sun Valley, Idaho, isn't a single resort hotel but rather a "vacation village" of multiple structures. It is one of the great ski resorts of America, but recent efforts have accelerated to enliven and enhance its spring, summer and fall use as an all year resort. In addition to a Robert Trent Jones Jr., golf course, it has 18 tennis courts, ice-skating at two rinks throughout the year, a movie theatre, multiple indoor and outdoor pools, trap and skeet shooting, day camps and play schools for children, family-style river trips, bicycle riding, fishing, hunting and horseback riding. "Shoulder season" autumn rates (October 23 to December 17): $149 to $179 per room in the Inn, $179 for most standard condos.

Tanque Verde Ranch in Tucson, Arizona (tel. 800/234 DUDE or 520/296-6275; www.tanqueverderanch.com), is perhaps the nation's most luxurious dude ranch, on 640 spectacular acres in the desert foothills (2,800 feet up) of the Rincon Mountains next to the Saguaro National Park and Coronado National Forest; you are 40 minutes by car from Tucson International Airport. The stable here has 120 well-trained horses (they provide walking rides for beginners, loping rides for the more experienced). You stay in one of 74 large and well-furnished, one-story-high, authentically decorated ranch rooms (most with adobe fireplaces), outside private patios, and air conditioning, receiving three meals a day, all riding, tennis, swimming, guided hikes, mountain biking, nature programs, spa facilities, indoor and outdoor pools, a Jacuzzi, men's and ladies' saunas, exercise room; fully-supervised children's program. Rates are based on the Full American Plan, and therefore include all three meals daily, all horseback riding, all else. "Shoulder Season" (October 1 to December 15) prices are $270 to $350 per single, but only $370 to $515 double (that is, for two persons).

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Labels: accommodations, lodge, parks