I recently returned from my first visit to Louisville. While I was there, I sought out all the quintessential culinary experiences I could. I'm sure I didn't hit them all, but with any luck, I'll be back to explore some more.
It's always a pleasure to stay in a fine hotel with some serious history behind it. The Brown Hotel(www.brownhotel.com) fits the bill. There are plenty of anecdotes about the famous people who have visited including Al Jolson, Queen Marie of Romania, and even a famous soprano who let her pet lion cub luxuriate in her suite. My suite, however, was feline-free.
One of the lasting legacies of the Brown Hotel is the Hot Brown. It's a classic fork-and-knife sandwich I dare you to try and finish in one sitting! Toast points are topped with sliced roast turkey breast, Mornay cheese sauce, and a couple of tomatoes (broiled to perfection and topped with bacon, paprika, and parsley). It is heavy and comforting, like a warm blanket on a cold night. Do me a favor. Go for the original. It is served in both of the hotel restaurants, The English Grill and J. Graham Bistro.
While the bourbon selection at bars and restaurants in Louisville vary greatly, for sheer variety, it's hard to beat Bourbons Bistro (www.bourbonsbistro.com) in a historic building on Frankfort Avenue. The bistro sells more than 140 bourbons including single barrel and small batch bourbons, some of which can be very hard to find. Try a flight to experience a range of styles. The food here is big and bold, standing up nicely to sipping bourbon or bourbon cocktails. The Roasted Garlic and Goat Cheese Spread ($9) served with croutons is a knockout! Who knew that bourbon paired so well with goat cheese?
For the face of new Louisville, head to the very hip21C (www.21cmuseumhotel.com) hotel and museum that has a top-ranked restaurant and bar, Proof on Main (www.proofonmain.com). The contemporary art focus is fresh and at times provocative. But the innovative cocktails and modern food prove equally compelling. Fresh herbs, homemade bitters, and infusions flavor the signature cocktails and the menu features well-executed contemporary Southern food with Italian touches.
When it comes to restaurants, my best meal (hand's down) was at Lilly's (www.lillyslapeche.com). Chef/owner Kathy Cary is a Kentucky native who uses local ingredients, such as catfish, country ham, bourbon, seasonal produce, artisanal cheeses and meats, but is not limited by them. Her food is sophisticated and draws from a variety of styles. My favorite dishes included a starter, Fried Oysters & Weisenberger Grits, Chipotle Butter & Sautéed Spinach ($8) and main dish, Stonecross Farm Pork Chop with Maker’s Mark Bourbon Sauce ($23) served with corn pudding and baby broccoli. The Art Deco interior is classy and elegant, and the service refined, making it a perfect spot for celebrating or entertaining. The menu has quite a range of dishes, from French-style pate to cold soups and even a hamburger.
More Tips for Eating and Drinking in Louisville:
Kentucky is bourbon country, and Louisville takes great pride in serving it to all who visit. One of the best ways to fully immerse yourself beyond visits to distilleries is to check out the best bourbon bars in town. Many of them are on the Urban Bourbon Trail, (www.justaddbourbon.com), a group of nine bars that carry a minimum of 50 bourbons each. Pick up a passport or download the iPhone app and explore.
In what might be considered a mecca for fast food, there is much more in Louisville than that. Both Bourbons Bistro and Lilly's are just two members of the Louisville Originals (www.louisvilleoriginals.com), a restaurant organization that proves Louisville is committed to using the best in season local ingredients. Check out the full list of Louisville Original restaurants before you go.
I was a guest of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau.
