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As Iceland celebrates two new airlines increasing flights to the country, Frommer's Iceland author and music lover, Lisa Gail Shannen checks out Iceland Airwaves 2011, one of the destination’s main events of the year.

With new Icelandic airline WOW Air launching
three flights a week from Stansted, London from 1 June 2012 and EasyJet to launch its thrice weekly service from Luton, London on 27 March 2012, it seems like as good a time as any to look at what’s driving travellers to Iceland and one of the capital’s main events each year.

It doesn’t matter how hard it rains, the air during Iceland Airwaves vibrates with musical energy. The streets flood with dedicated airwave surfers, all there to happily collide once more in common interest, and of course to catch a musical wave that will lead them to some new audio dynamite.

 
Big Names
It’s amazing to think that this huge festival, which started as a one-off gig in an airplane hanger back in 1999, showcasing only 5 bands, has established itself as one of the coolest events on the international music festival calendar. This year’s Airwaves played host to 250 bands and headlining was none other than Icelandic pop queen Björk herself; her concerts were thought have been long sold out, but extra tickets were announced for sale on the first day of the festival. Some devoted fans queued outside the ticket shop from as early as 3am, enduring the wind and rain for 8 hours before the tickets went on sale; the owner of Litlibóndabærinn, my favorite local organic coffee shop, took pity on the shivering crowd and distributed free coffee amongst them.

The other big name in the line-up was Sinéad O´Connor who delivered one of the best performances of the festival. Her set up was very simple and the backing minimal, leaving plenty of space for her beautiful chocolate-mint-chip vocals to fill the room. She was only supposed to perform for an hour, but ended up doing two, playing a mixture of old and new songs, and keeping us thoroughly entertained with plenty of witty banter in-between. She saved her tear inducing international hit “Nothing Compares to You” until last.  

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Photo Caption: Crowd at Airwaves. Credit: Roman Gerasymenko

Much as the event is about showcasing new international talent, there’s also plenty of Icelandic music to discover. This year was host to 165 Icelandic bands including many Airwave’s favorites who’ve played the festival before, such as the brilliant Cynic Guru
, Tonik, Ólafur Ardnalds, Bloodgroup and Agent Fresco. These are great artists and well worth a watch; however, my favorite new Icelandic discovery is an original funk/afro/jazz band: the Samuel Jon Samuelsson Big Band
. Their brass funky performance was both energizing and uplifting and left me feeling rather groovy and actually a little lost for words, apart from a mouthful of extreme adjectives that is. 
 

Another Icelandic performer to watch out for is the electronic music artist Futuregrapher, whose performances are always spirited and soulful; his one man show at Airwaves delivered an air fracturing fusion of sound and vision framed within intelligent rhythms. The crowd was successfully courted by his enigmatic stage presence and he presided over them like a preacher of passion, while his music excited and united his disciples on the dance-floor.

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Photo Caption: Futuregrapher. Credit: Roman Gerasymenko


My Favorite New International Discoveries

Spaceships Are Cool are a band from Nottingham in the U.K and played a few of the off-venues. I was very happy I accidentally found myself in the audience during their Thursday night set at Barbara (a new Reykjavík club), I had planned on going somewhere else but had dived into this place to get some shelter from the blessed rain. Dressed in cool matching orange rocket-ship uniforms and armed with range of acoustic and electro instruments, including a stylophone and one of those snazzy air synths, they performed a set of melodious songs from their e.p, (which they gave away free to audience members) and completely fulfilled their intention of shooting some sunshine into our souls.  

Friday night at NASA was probably one of the best and most unexpected nights of Airwaves for me, one of my favorites were headlining the night: Bloodgroup, but I thought I’d get there early and catch some bands I’d never heard of as well; none of them disappointed. When I arrived the place was already crowded and rocking to a futuristic fusion of past and present ethnic genres in the form of Tune Yards from the U.S.

This act was quickly followed by another great band called Clock Opera
from London. They arrived on stage with a big bearded frontman and launched into an energetic set of earnest numbers. The bearded man delivered some rather wonderful lyrics and then as quick as lightening, discharged some freaky dance moves. The energy levels both on stage and in the audience seemed to intensity with every new band and rocketed when the stage was taken over by an attention grabbing Stegosaurus, who walked onstage wearing an impressive feathered war-bonnet. This act with the giant-sized name “Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs performed a dangerous set of dance music with rib-rattling monster beats and dino-dancing girls for decoration. 
 

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Photo Caption: Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs. Credit: Roman Gerasymenko

The Blue Lagoon Chill
At 6,300kr ($52.83) the Blue Lagoon Chill party is not cheap, at least not for Icelanders, but with the currency still at around 50% of its original strength it’s probably affordable for most visitors from abroad. Price aside, the event is annually amazing. Airwavers get to party in the pretty blue lagoon while drinking beer and listening to some choice chill-out music. Dominating the decks this year was Iceland’s own DJ Margeir, with a guest appearance from GusGus’ Daniel Ágúst. When the DJ plays the trademark chill vintage track “Love is in the Air” it’s tradition for the guests to whip the water up into a foaming frenzy.

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Photo Caption: Blue Lagoon. Credit: Roman Gerasymenko


You can’t be in ten places at once

When it’s all over you can’t’ help feeling like you’ve missed something, and then you hear about what happened here and there and realize you have. With ten venues active each evening, the main drawback was that it was only possible to experience 10% of the total listings. But hearing and sharing your experience with people is all part of the fun. I heard many interesting stories, and of events I wish I’d seen, such as Yoko Ono bringing out the police to close down her show at the Harpa concert hall; apparently it went on a bit too late...

I would have also liked to witness the brave Rich Aucoin
as he literally surfed the crowd of Airwavers perched on a real surfboard.
 What makes Airwaves so remarkable is the focus on people and their enjoyment of music. Hopefully, it will stay that way in spite of its growing importance and popularity. Though it’s not long over, the organizers have already announced the dates for next year’s festival which will be from 31 October 31 to 4 November.

Beer is usually a popular subject with our readers, so last night I forced myself along to Brewdog’s launch of its first bar on English soil in Camden, London, with one of our London authors, Donald Strachan. What I do for travel, eh?

 

Brewdog is a microbrewery based in Scotland known for its unique style of brewing and its new bar is a short skip from Camden Tube station. Set over two floors, with minimal decor, stripped back black walls and a brick-work bar, it’s got a kind of down-to-business feel about it, but it’s a welcome change to a lot of the fusty pubs in the area. Plus, there’s no TV, definitely a plus in the city these days.

Marketing itself as a bit of a maverick, Brewdog has gained a reputation for controversy in the drinks industry, setting itself up as an antidote to - in its own words - “the pathetic monotony of mass market industrial beers made by faceless multi-national corporations”. Strong stuff, but so is its beer, and among the craft beers on offer last night was the former strongest beer in the world – Sink the Bismarck weighing in at a staggeringly potent 41%. If that sounds extreme, then note this is also the brewer who produces The End of History beer (a nod to philosopher Francis Fukuyama) presented in a stuffed stoat or grey squirrel, and is now the world’s strongest beer at 55%.

 
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Credit: BrewDog


There was no taxidermy going on last night and no, I didn’t try that beer, because I was going elsewhere afterwards and I’m responsible (a coward) but I did get to experience a tasting session downstairs held by Brewdog founders, James and Martin. Both these self-styled “beer pirates” really held the room with their expertise, as they took us through how to taste a beer properly, their individual artisan slant on the brewing process, and five of their top beers (complemented, by the way, by Masterchef Winner Tim Anderson’s pizzas and burgers).

 

My favourite beers were the 5 AM Saint and Punk IPA, both containing spicy and deep flavours, both intensely hoppy and loaded up with strong American hop varieties, but the best was saved until last. Everyone in the room was asked to wear an eye mask, and then handed the last beer of the evening: rich chocolate notes (that’s what the wine crowd say isn’t it?), a bitter coffee after-taste and the bold, deep truffle flavour of a solid stout. When we were asked to take off our eye-masks, everyone was amazed to see we’d been drinking a blonde beer – Brewdog’s first blonde stout. You’ve got to hand it to them, that’s quite a feat (and I was relieved not to be holding a stoat stout, too).

 

If this is what not playing by the rules and an individual approach to the brewing of beer is like, then I’m signed up to the new Punk beer revolution.

 

BrewDog Camden is now officially open at 113 Bayham Street, London. www.brewdog.com

There can be few sights on earth as exhilarating or humbling as that of a dark, mottled form slowly emerging in a glittering eruption of rippling waves just a few metres away from the small boat you’re sitting in, gradually revealing itself as one of nature’s most majestic animals. My first whale watching experience is certainly one which will stay with me for the rest of my life, and I was delighted yet unsurprised to discover the vast variety of events which exist solely to rejoice in this breathtaking spectacle.

Across the planet, whales of all types, shapes and sizes are commemorated in events throughout the year, from Australia and New Zealand to Vietnam and Korea. November 2011 even saw Europe’s first whale festival launch in Brighton, England - despite there being no actual potential for whale sightings in the area. Undeterred, WhaleFest hosted a variety of whale and dolphin-orientated attractions over a long weekend, including the opportunity to come face-to-face with a life-sized blue whale (dummy).

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Photo Caption: Eastern Pacific grey whale. Credit: Courtesy of Dana Point Festival of Whales

The annual migration of the eastern Pacific grey whale gives the west coast of North America 20,000 reasons to celebrate every spring.  From southern California to British Columbia, coastal towns welcome back these graceful animals to their local waters in a series of jubilant festivals.

Certain factors make these whales’ migration particularly worthy of recognition. Grey whales undertake the longest annual migration of any known mammal, and the eastern Pacific variety make a round trip of around 20,000 km every year, from Mexico’s Baja peninsula to their near-Arctic summer feeding grounds. This breed has also been commercially hunted close to extinction twice over the past few hundred years, but thankfully numbers have now recovered significantly. Celebrating their triumphant survival is undoubtedly one of the primary aims of the West Coast whale festivals, which often place a strong focus on educating participants of the plight of other varieties of whale across the planet.

One of the best of these whale welcome parties is Vancouver Island’s Pacific Rim Whale Festival, held every March in the beautiful surroundings of the Pacific Rim National Park, in the small towns of Tofino and Ucluelet. The festival lasts three weeks and offers a range of events and activities focused on honouring, observing and understanding the whales, as well as educating attendees of the environmental threats facing whale populations worldwide. 2011’s schedule included events as diverse as the ‘Martini Migration’ - a competition which saw local mixologists vie for the title of the best Whale Festival Martini - and the ‘Sensory Experience’, which allowed visitors to listen to authentic whale sounds in a relaxing environment.  


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Photo Caption: Spot the whale… Whale-watching from Tofino. Credit: Photo by Jennifer Hardwick

Access this part of Vancouver Island’s rugged coastline by coach from British Columbia’s capital Victoria, or splash out on a ride in a seaplane for panoramic views across the Pacific. Make the trip and you’ll be rewarded with long stretches of windswept beaches struck by the high rolling waves that make the area a surfing hotspot, studded with clusters of dark craggy rocks and trimmed by dense fir woods that sweep right down to the water’s edge. Whale watching is popular from both Tofino and Ucelet throughout the year, as many Pacific greys choose not to venture further north and spend their summers in the area, while humpbacks and orcas (killer whales) can often be seen too. Black bears, eagles and harbour seals are other local residents.

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Photo Caption: On the beach in Tofino. Credit: Photo by Jennifer Hardwick

Oregon hosts special whale ‘Watch Weeks’ to make the most of both the spring and winter migrations, in March and December. Hundreds of knowledgeable volunteers are stationed at look-out points along the state’s coastline, to help locals and visitors pick out the whales among the waves.

Orange County’s annual Dana Point Festival of Whales features two weekends of fun in March, when 40 – 50 grey whales pass by the town each day. The excitement kicks off with the Parade, held on the first Saturday of the Festival, as whale-related floats and giant inflatables are proudly held aloft along the Pacific Coast Highway.

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Photo Caption: Whale Pride. Credit: Courtesy of Dana Point Festival of Whales

The Mendocino Coast Whale Festivals take place in the small towns of Little River, Fort Bragg and Mendocino. On top of organised whale-watching walks, attendees can also participate in kayaking tours of nearby sea caves.

So if you like your whale watching with a party atmosphere, head to the West Coast this spring for a guaranteed glimpse of a majestic eastern Pacific grey, and celebrate the staying power of these deep sea survivors with a few days of migratory merriment.

Written by Jennifer Hardwick

The Pacific Rim Whale will take place from the 17th-25th March 2012.
www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com

The Dana Point Festival of Whales will take place on the 3rd-4th March and the 10-11th March 2012.
www.dpfestivalofwhales.com

The Mendocino Coast Whale Festivals will take place on the 3rd-4th, 10th-11th and 17th-18thMarch 2012.
www.mendowhale.com

Oregon’s whale Watch Weeks will take place at different locations throughout March 2012.
Visit www.traveloregon.com for more information.

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