I am making my first trip to Rome in March with my wife. We land Thursday AM at 7:35 in the morning at FCO. I was thinking of doing the Vatican/St. Peters that day since we are staying at the Visconti
I am making my first trip to Rome in March with my wife. We land Thursday AM at 7:35 in the morning at FCO. I was thinking of doing the Vatican/St. Peters that day since we are staying at the Visconti Palace which is on that side of the Tiber. I had read that tues, thurs, fri were good days to go? We are staying Thursday through Thursday. Because of the feast of saint Joseph the Vatican stuff is closed Monday (as well as Sunday). Saturday I assume it would be packed. I could put it off until tues/wed, but I was thinking the day we land would be good- or does that sound like a bad idea?
Sunday also happens to be the Rome marathon. I was thinking sunday would be a good day to take a morning trip to Pompeii and Naples? We would also like to take a trip to Florence - perhaps Tuesday or Wednesday ?
That would leave Friday, saturday, Monday, and Tuesday or Wednesday to see the rest of the sites in Rome.
Are you coming from the US? If so and you have not flown transatlantic before, don't be surprised if you are too tired and/or jetlagged when you arrive to be up for much sightseeing. Definitely don't plan on seeing the Vatican Museums that day, as one of the greatest (and largest) museums on the planet deserves your full, un-jetlagged attention.
I don't think it matters which day you go to Florence, as long as it isn't Monday when the major museums are closed. It's worth making a decision in advance about when you will go, though, and getting reservations for the museums. If all you have is a single day, don't waste any of it standing in lines.
I'm not a believer in planning which day I'm going to do each thing. For one thing, weather is never a given. You won't want your day in Pompeii (or to visit the Colosseum or the Forum) if it's raining. Plan on visiting the outdoor sights on good-weather days early in your stay and see the indoor sights afterward, when weather won't matter. The exception would be anything you need a reservation for - the Borghese Gallery, for example.
I would be far too jet-lagged and cranky to enjoy a trip to the Vatican the same day I arrived in Rome. The Vatican is usually quite crowded in the morning, so in addition to the art overload, the mobs would get on my nerves.
Some people, however, would be so excited to be arriving in Rome, they couldn't resist plunging straight into Rome's biggest site (literally), and perhaps all that religious monumentality would put them in a more saintly mood than it does me when it comes to crowds.
I'd probably just walk all over Rome my first day it it wasn't raining, without any particular direction, and without going into any big sights. I might take an open air bus tour, or I might walk to St Peter's without going it, to the piazza Navona, and visit the Pantheon. Then I might have lunch, and then go window shopping in the direction of the Spanish Steps, then back down toward the piazza del Popolo. By that time you would be back near your hotel, and you might some light food somewhere and some wine, and get to bed early.
If it was raining, I might go to the Capitolini museums (you can take the Rome subway from Lepanto, near your hotel, to Vittorio Emanuele), which is a bit easier to absorb than all that density in the Vatican of art and decoration. There is a beautiful view of the Forum from the basement area of the museum. After lunch, if was still raining, I might take the 64 bus up Saint Peter's and tour the church, then head out for a light dinner with wine.
I might go to the Vatican museum the next day, Friday, in the afternoon.
I like your idea of taking your day trip to Napoli/Pompei on the day of the Rome marathon. If it's raining, go to Florence instead.
Others would do things completely differently, and if you think you have the energy for the Vatican your first day, many people do it that way. I just couldn't.
I am coming from the US (NJ) and have never flown to Europe - only ever to the west coast of the US. I realize jet lag will be an issue, but I can't imagine landing, checking in and then just taking a nap :)
Perhaps just wandering (and eating) the first day is best ....
Regarding the things you need to make reservations for in advance - any certain day that's best for the galleria borghese? Also, I believe you also have to reserve tickets for the ufizzi in Florence, no? Is it worth pre-buying Vatican tickets to skip the lines, or is the march 15-22 time frame not so crowded?
Another question - typical mid march weather is what, 60's?
Reservations are mandatory at the Galleria Borghese, and since entry is limited, it doesn't matter when you go. Reservations aren't mandatory in Florence, but they are advisable if you'll only have a day there. You can never count on not encountering crowds at the Vatican, so I think arranging for skip-the-line privileges is probably a good investment.
My practice on landing, to avoid jet lag, is to stay upright and keep moving to force myself onto the new time. Because you're arriving so early, you may want a nap during the afternoon, but if so, keep it fairly short. You want to be good and tired at a Roman bedtime so you'll sleep the night through and awake on Italian time.
My practice is to take a nap as soon as I can get into my hotel room. I usually sleep 90 minutes, or no more than two hours. I find that even with a nap, I am able to get to sleep with a normal bedtime. On separate occasions, when my husband and I forced ourselves to stay awake, we got sick and our trip was ruined. (This was in wintertime, and it was rainy.)
For many years in a row, my husband had a job where he needed to get up at the crack of dawn to get to his office. Vacations were the only time when he didn't set the alarm. To the lasting horror of some people, we vacationed in places like Rome and Paris yet didn't start sightseeing until 10:00 in the morning or later. We discovered many things in the big cities of Europe are open in the evening, and that people tend to eat dinner late. A late dinner is part of the adjustment of visiting Italy.
We always go to bed once we reach the hotel upon arrival in Italy. Neither one of us sleep well on the plane, so this strategy works for us. After waking we walk and walk after dinner. We try to go to bed around 11 in the evening and the next morning our body clocks have adjusted.
Do not underestimate the effects of jet lag and how lousy you can feel. The above posters provided cogent strategies based on long years of experience and we also share the same experience.
Thanks for the tips. It sounds like Vatican the day we land is probably a bad idea. Perhaps I'll plan that for Friday around noon and just spend Thursday roaming until we are tired. Napping just isn't going to happen - jet lag or not, there's no way I could land and then sleep - ill be far too excited! Plus we tried napping one afternoon in Vegas after a early am flight and never woke up until like 3am! We are pretty good at staying up until the real bed time.
As far as Florence goes, I'd assume a Tuesday or Wednesday visit (depending on weather) would be the way to go? Seems like the duomo and ufizi are closed Sunday and Monday.
Sorry for the questions, but it's an overwhelming thing to try and plan for someone whose never been to Italy as I have read so many conflicting reports - some saying you can easily walk everywhere and others saying its too spread out (Rome).
You really needen't apologize for asking questions. Obviously people here enjoy helping others, and being able to quiz those that have been there before can help you shape a more personal trip, since guidebooks really must aim to be more general.
A great deal of Rome can be comfortably and enjoyably seen by foot by anybody fit who much prefers walking to waiting for a bus. The only problem sets in, I think, with a couple of very worthwhile sights. The Galleria Borghese can be a pleasant walk up through the park and back again, but not if it is raining or if you are already footsore. The entrance to the Vatican museum (which isn't St. Peter's) is inconvenient to almost everything -- except (lucky you) your hotel. The Baths of Caracalla are very atmospheric, but they feel beyond the outer limit to most people pounding the old stone pavements of Rome. The bus ride there from the Colosseum is enjoyable.
For me, investing in a good up-to-date guidebook and reading how to get a bus or subway when you might suddenly want one can me the difference between melting down and giving up on some things you had really hoped to see. Most people end up eating so much pasta, pizza and gelato in Rome they are glad they are walking so many miles each day. But sometimes, if it starts to rain, or you are ending your sightseeing day in Trastevere and would dearly like a helicopter to pick you up and transport you back to your hotel, grabbing a bus for 1 euro saves the day. Taxis (and helicopters) are not always easy to find in Rome. Mind your valuables when you ride buses or subways.
I think your plan to day trip to Florence when the museum are open is a good one, as is your plan to skip taking a nap.
I don't think Rome needs to be overwhelming, and you'll see once you get there that Rome has an abundance of the things that make for easy sightseeing: lots of signage pointing the way to famous sights and famous churches, lots of places to sit down to regroup and enjoy the passing parade, lots of food in all price ranges, lots of newstands selling maps, guides and umbrellas or sun hats, lots of helpful people around (including fellow tourists with good maps and tips).
[quote]A great deal of Rome can be comfortably and enjoyably seen by foot by anybody fit who much prefers walking to waiting for a bus. The only problem sets in, I think, with a couple of very worthwhile sights. The Galleria Borghese can be a pleasant walk up through the park and back again, but not if it is raining or if you are already footsore. The entrance to the Vatican museum (which isn't St. Peter's) is inconvenient to almost everything -- except (lucky you) your hotel. The Baths of Caracalla are very atmospheric, but they feel beyond the outer limit to most people pounding the old stone pavements of Rome. The bus ride there from the Colosseum is enjoyable.[/quote]
Thanks - it looks like the Galleria Borghese is only about a mile and a half from my hotel, which is an easy walk [not sure id be walking from there, but i dont think itd be any farther from any other area of Rome]. The Vatican Museum is not even a full mile from the hotel, so, another easy walk [again, as you said, assuming weather is ok].
My general points of interest to see in Rome are:
Coloseum Pantheon Roman Forum Campo de Fiore Galleria Borghese Vatican/St. Peters Castel Sant'Angelo Capitoline Museums Palatine Hill Sant'Ignazio Church of the Gesu Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore Santa Maria in Aracoeli Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II San Giovanni in Laterano Basilica di San Clemente San Luigi dei Francesi Santa Maria sopra Minerva Santa Maria del Popolo Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri Santa Maria in Trastevere Santa Cecilia in Trastevere Santa Maria della Pace Piazza Navona Piazza del Campidoglio Spanish Steps Piazza del Popolo PIazza di Spagna Column of Marcus Aurelius Fontana di Trevi Capuchin Crypt Baths of Diocletian Castel Sant'Angelo San Bartolomeo all'Isola
I am not sure how realistic it is to see ALL of that, and I am also aware that I have not listed nearly all there is to see in Rome. Without having ever been there, and looking at maps, it seems like its fairly simple to break the areas/sites into sections and that you can hit a lot of things in one day - especially since some sites may take only a few minutes to see. Of course, I am not taking into account how often that we would be stopping to see other things NOT on the list, and/or just sitting around eating/drinking etc.
Anyhow my general plan would be to break it into days like this:
Thursday - we land, have to check in, etc - so just a day of wandering really. Since we are near Castel Sant'Angelo, maybe check that out, take the bridge across and see Piazza Navona, head towards the Pantheon, grab some lunch, and continue to wander. Since we will be tired, maybe eat dinner at Cacio e Pepi which is near our hotel [plus I wanna check it out] and will be nice to eat someplace near the hotel so we can get to bed.
Friday - Vatican/St Peters stuff
Saturday - Maybe do Popolo area, Galleria Borghese, Capuccin Crypts, etc - stuff in that area. I'd assume that the Colosseum would be too crowded on Saturdays? Id really like to go in, and do all that.
Sunday - Pompeii/Naples
Monday - Colosseum area stuff if we havent seen it already?
Tuesday - Florence
Wednesday - whatever else we havent seen?
A lot of this will depend on weather of course. Also, I have not really thought out what days to see what, and I dont really want to have vacation be too regimented - I just want a general idea so we have some sort of plan.
We get up pretty early by nature, and usually dont go to bed that early either (we are mid 30's) usually arounf 1130-midnight or so on weeknights. That leaves basically 12+ hours a day to wander around, so I do not really see any problems in getting to all this stuff - am I crazy??
First of all, some of your target sights are very close together -- stick your head in to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva when you are near the Pantheon. The Capitolini museums, the church of Santa Maria Aracoeli and the Vittorio Emmanuele monument are all on top of each other.
Also, many places on your wish list are open relatively late, which helps. For instance, you can visit Santa Maria in Trastevere early in the evening, enjoy the piazza for a cocktail, and then head for dinner in the Jewish ghetto. After dinner, take a stroll to see the Portico d'Ottavia. I think that the Trevi fountain is more fun at night than during the day. I would time a visit to the Capitoliini museums for sunset, to take in the view of the Forum.
The walk from your hotel to the Galleria Borghese is all uphill, but still quite doable for the fit. Just remember that you will also be walking several miles inside the major museums, all on hard stone surfaces. So at some point, leg muscles begin to scream, even for 12 year olds, so that's why I think at least knowing how to work the bus system can bring true joy at the end of a day. In addition, even if you have never had a blister in your life and promise to wear only your oldest, comfiest shoes, pack band-aids.
The Campo de'Fiori is a touristy food market in the morning and a raucous teeny-bop binge drink pub spot by night. If you want to tour an authentic roman food market, make a morning run to the Trionfale market, which is quite close to your hotel. If you want to lay flowers at the execution site of Giordano Bruno, you can only do that in the Campo de'Fiori.
PS: It occurred to me 2 hours later to add that you also have a subway stop near your hotel that could speed you to or back from San Giovanni in Laterano, the baths of Caracalla, etc. I am not at all discouraging you from walking all over Rome. It is a great way to be up close and personal with all of Rome. Just pointing out some options, especially if you want or need to pop back into your hotel room during the day.
If you go to San Giovanni in Laterano, the closters, which cost a few euro to enter, are quite lovely, and the old bronze doors from the Roman Senate are a sight to behold.
The monuments of Rome lit up at night are marvelous, including the Colosseum and St Peter's (the latter of which can be seen from almost anywhere). I also think it is extremely atmospheric to walk after dark through old Jewish ghetto, especially near the ancient Portico d'Ottavia and the Teatro di Marcello. It's also a great place to eat, especially in March, when you can eat fried artichokes and other Roman Jewish specialties.
Many of the piazze of Rome really come to life at night, and many cafes put up tables outside with flaming heaters to keep you warm. There is a huge student youth scene that clogs up the streets of near the piazza Navona (around della Pace), in the Campo de'Fiore and near the piazza Santa Maria in Trastever, but you will find that almost everywhere you go in Rome at night, people are in the bars and trattorie, chatting up a storm.
One thing that is highly enjoyable to do is to join the evening passeggiata before dinnertime on some of Rome's best window-shopping streets. Across the river from your hotel, the several of the streets the radiate off the piazza del Popolo -- the via del Corso and the via Babuino, and also the via Margutta -- can give you a lot of insight into the lifestyle of Romans if you join them for an evening stroll before dinner.
Walking home after dinner through Rome's beautiful streets after dark can be haunting and memorable.
Is it safe to be walking around late at night? I know dinner doesn't end until 11pm or later in some cases - should I be hesitant to walk back from say the Pantheon area or Trastavere area (or anywhere really) back to my hotel?
Ran across your post and all the great advice from respondents -- since the safety question was you last post, I'll reply -- no problem with safety Pantheon and surrounds, LOTS of people walk around at night, very romantic. I'd feel likewise safe in Trastavere, Rome is alive at night, fun, very populated.
I wanted to add that you might consider the Roma Pass -- http://www.romapass.it/p.aspx?l=en&tid=2 -- we were quite happy with it, and felt it saved us a good bit of money. If you decide to use, it may impact your schedulling, so check it out asap.
On the Vatican Museum -- YES YES do buy the advance ticket -- the line was way around the block when we went, but with a printout of our prepaid ticket, we literally walked past at least a thousand people right up to the front and were waved in by the guard!!
Also want to mention when you go to Borghese Museum -- the park is gorgeous and a lovely break from the crowds -- after the museum, if you walk straight through the park, you'll end up on a cliff overlooking the most beautiful classic photo op view of Rome. The staircase in front of you at the cliff ends up in Piazza Popolo, and you can walk down to many sights from there.
p.s. There is a magnificent vegetarian restaurant toward the left as you exit the Popolo square -- Il Margutta, and I think the street is even called Margutta -- I keep hoping that they will write a cookbook. The daily lunch buffet is incredible (btw, "buffet" in Rome is top quality, just a popular style of eating) -- the Romans are brilliant with vegetables -- my tip here, unless it changed in the last two years: the Sunday brunch is double the price for exactly the same food, go to the weekday lunch buffet.
Thanks sologirl. We will definitely be picking up the Roma Pass upon landing in Rome. I believe its good for 3 days from when you first use it -not when you buy it, correct?
We will also definitely be pre-ordering Vatican tickets. At this point I am fairly certain that Friday will be the day we go. I am just unsure if its better to arrive in the AM or the PM. I have heard crowds are less in the PM, but our hotel is on that side of the Tiber, so I am wondering if it makes more sense to go in the AM??
Thanks for the tip on the park/photo op and restaurant, though I can't imagine eating at a vegetarian restaurant, I am sure my wife would love it :)
Anyone know if Hostaria Costanza or Trattoria de Pallaro are woth eating at? I have friends who went to Rome who both liked these places, but this was years ago.
Rome is very safe at night througout. When you are in Trastevere, you should stick to the areas closer to the river, and as in most big cities, nighttime walking through vast gardens and parks (the Borghese and Gianicolo) or walking very late at night if you are quite tipsy isn't a good idea. But Rome has an extremely low rate of violent crime -- next to non-existent -- and pickpockets or scamsters are what you need to be alert to, and it is easy to avoid bad experiences with a bit of forethought.
Don't know about Hostaria Constanza and I've never eaten at Trattoria der Pallaro, but the latter I think is now in Rick Steves' guidebook, which can sometimes result in finding yourself surrounded by people at dinner all carrying Rick Steves' guidebooks.
The vegetarian restaurant on the via Margutta is called Il Margutta.
PS: Regarding the timing of your visit to the Vatican museums, if you decide to go in the afternoon, when I do believe crowds of tour groups have lessened, remember that the entrance to the Vatican Museums is just steps from the metro stop "Cipro". So you could be any number of places on your wish list earlier in the day along the "red line" of the Rome metro -- San Giovanni in Laterano, Basilica San Clemente, the Capitoline Museums, the piazza di Spagna -- and have an easy subway ride back to the entrance of the Vatican.
It's also possible that at the end of touring the Vatican, a short walk back to your hotel to freshen up before heading out to dinner is more appealing than going in the morning and, upon leaving, wondering if you have the appetite for any more sightseeing. Taking on the Vatican museums is really quite a project if you mean to see most of it in one visit.
