Introduction to Aegina

30km (17 nautical miles) SW of Piraeus

More travelers come to Aegina (Egina), the largest of the Saronic Gulf islands, than to any of the other Greek islands. Why? The answer, as so often, is location, location, location. Aegina is so close to Athens that it draws thousands of day-trippers. As the day-trippers arrive, many of the 10,000 who live on Aegina and commute daily to work in Athens depart. If you have only 1 day for one island, you may decide on Aegina, where you can see one famous temple (the Doric Temple of Aphaia), visit one romantic medieval hill town (Paleochora), have lunch at one of the harborside tavernas in Aegina town, and munch the island's famous pistachio nuts as you sail back to Athens.

Most ships arrive and depart from the main port and capital of Aegina town on the west coast, though a few stop at the resort town of Souvala on the north coast and at the port of Ayia Marina on the east coast. Ayia Marina is about as charmless as it's possible to be, but this port is your best choice if your principal destination is the Temple of Aphaia.

Despite massive tourism and the rapid development devouring much farmland, the area still has its share of almond, olive, and especially pistachio orchards. In fact, the island has an endemic water problem simply because of the water necessary for the pistachio groves. Wherever you buy pistachios in Greece, the vendor may assure you that they are from Aegina to indicate their superior quality.

Avoid the Crowds -- If Aegina turns out to be too crowded for you, take the short ferry ride to little Angistri, where Rosy's Little Village (tel. 22970/91-610; www.rosyslittlevillage.com) is as charming as its name, with 16 whitewashed rooms tucked in a pine grove. The restaurant serves organic food, there's swimming in a rocky cove, and many guests meditate and relax; doubles go from 70€.