Planning a Trip

Splendid in their isolation, the Aeolians are not the easiest place to get to, which is an integral part of their charm. Once you're there, however, it's fairly straightforward to hop between one island and the next. Hydrofoil and ferry connections are regular (especially from Apr-Oct), and the ports are small and quickly navigated. However, it is important to bear in mind that the Greeks did not name the islands after Aeolus, god of wind, for nothing. Winter storms can, on occasion, also see the islands cut off from "mainland" Sicily for days, and even in spring and summer the seas can be unpredictable. It is wise to leave a reasonable margin of freedom around travel plans as hydrofoils in particular can be subject to delays and cancellations; and, when a sailing is cancelled, ferry workers greet the plaintive squeals of city folk with a disdainful shrug.

Milazzo, on the northeast coast of Sicily, is the main port for ferries to the Aeolians, though seasonal service is available from Naples as well.

From Milazzo: You can choose between ferries and hydrofoils run by Siremar (tel. 91/7493111; www.siremar.it) and hydrofoils run by Ustica Lines (tel. 090/9287821; www.usticalines.it). As per usual, ferries take a little longer, and cost a little less than hydrofoils. Because schedules change without notice, it's best to call or check online for current crossings and prices. It is a good idea to buy tickets in advance, especially in high season (July and Aug) and at weekends throughout the summer.

From Naples: SNAV (tel. 081/4285555; www.snav.it) runs a hydrofoil from Naples's Mergellina port from late May/early June to early September, with service to Vulcano, Lipari, Salina, Panarea, and Stromboli. Note that tickets from the mainland are much costlier than those from Sicily.

Inter-Island: All inter-island journeys, whether by ferry or hydrofoil, are handled by Siremar and Ustica Lines. Schedules vary from season to season and are known to change with little notice. For the most up-to-date planning info, especially for your inter-island journeys, consult each company's website.

If you prefer to explore the islands from one base rather than island-hop, Lipari is a good choice. While not the most attractive of the islands, it has a wide range of accommodations at all price ranges and abundant services. However, Salina's position at the heart of the archipelago makes it a charming and practical choice.

Note: Arriving with a car is a bad idea; several of the islands prohibit cars, and many are small enough to negotiate on foot. Notable exceptions are Lipari and Salina, where the best way to get around is to rent a small car or a scooter.

Most of the islands wind down in late October, and you'll be hard pressed to find anywhere to stay beyond Lipari. In high season (July and Aug), prices rise alarmingly; in the most popular places (Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli), you can barely hear yourself think, and the smaller islands, especially Panarea, can be overrun with day-trippers. However, go midweek in June or especially September (after 3 months of sunshine, the sea will be at its warmest) and you'll be in paradise.