When we researched our first edition of this guide, my son, Robin, was 3, and my daughter, Julia, was 6 months. As I write this, Robin is 16, Julia is 13, Joseph is 9, and Becky is 7. You might run into us in a campground or on a boat dock anywhere in the state as we travel to research the next edition of "our Alaska book." Robin has surprised people carrying it and introduced himself. Yes, it's a great job, and bringing the family along is the best part.
Alaska's magnificent scenery is something even young children can understand and appreciate. Also, an Alaska vacation is largely spent outdoors, which is where kids like to be. The children never get enough ferry riding, and all four enjoy camping immensely. Our extensive experience camping with babies, even as young as 3 months, has been entirely positive. Having everyone sleep in a tent, at baby level, is an infant's idea of vacation paradise.
There are drawbacks to Alaska as a family destination. The primary one is the expense. We have never gotten a significant break on a child's airplane ticket on the Alaska route. Activities such as flightseeing and tour-boat cruises tend to have less-than-generous children's discounts and cost too much for most families. Often bed-and-breakfast rooms are too small for a family. Hotel rooms and restaurant meals are expensive in Alaska. Car camping solves many of those problems, with stops in a hotel every few days to get everyone cleaned up. I wouldn't take kids over the Alaska Highway, however; instead, I'd fly to Anchorage and rent a car and any bulky camping gear there.
Be careful in choosing your itinerary and activities with children. The highways in Alaska are long and children will require a gradual approach to covering a lot of ground. They also need time to play, explore, and rest. Frankly, children often don't enjoy activities like wildlife-watching. It takes a long time to find the animals, and when you do, they're usually off in the distance -- kids younger than 8 often don't have the visual skills or patience to pick out the animals from the landscape. Don't overtax children with walks and hiking trips; we keep track of the longest hike we've managed without excessive whining, then try to extend that record just a little bit each time out. Short sea-kayaking excursions, on the other hand, are great for children who are old enough, riding in the front of a double-seat boat with a parent in back; we began with Joseph at age 5, and I have friends who have done it with a 3-year-old. In practice, the age limit depends on the outfitter and your child's level of responsibility.
If you're flawed mortals like us, you'll be getting on each other's nerves after a few weeks on the road. We survive by leaving time for low-key kid activities, such as beachcombing or playing in the park, while one grown-up splits off for a museum visit, shopping, or a special, more expensive activity. Of course, if you want to preserve your marriage, you'll have to be scrupulously fair about who gets to go flightseeing and who has to stay behind and change diapers, as you won't have my all-purpose excuse (research).
If you're interested in a package tour with your family, most of the companies reviewed will take children, but research carefully to make sure you will have enough down time and not too much time on the road. Alaska Wildland Adventures (tel. 800/334-8730; www.alaskawildland.com) has various trips for kids as young as 12, and can take children as young as 6 for a package of day activities based at their Kenai Riverside Lodge. The package, called the Kenai Explorer, is flexible in length and geared to families, offering games and kid-oriented guides. The shortest, 2-night, 3-day version is $975 adults, $900 children 7 and up. Alaska Discovery (tel. 800/586-1911) takes children as young as 12 on some of its extended Southeast Alaska sea-kayaking trips, which start at $895 for 3 days and 2 nights, and welcomes younger children on its noncamping trips.
