Active Pursuits

Most people don't come to Alberta with the intention of sticking to the cities. Blessed with extraordinary mountain terrain, beautiful rolling foothills, vast prairie land, and endless, big blue sky (most of the time), the province of Alberta cries out to be seen from the outside in.

There's wildlife to glimpse, diverse ecosystems to observe, and, in the far north, there's the Athabasca, the second largest river delta in the world (after the Amazon), with wetlands that cradle more than 55 species of mammals and more than 200 species of birds. The national parks of Waterton Lakes, Banff, Jasper, and Wood Buffalo are all UNESCO world heritage sites, and offer unique opportunities to explore nature -- albeit with wildly varying degrees of solitude.

Even urban Albertans often embrace the outdoors, so you'll also find plenty of opportunities for cycling in Calgary and Edmonton on an expansive and well-connected system of bicycle paths. In the winter, these paths can be used to cross-country ski as well -- always an interesting sight amid the downtown skyscrapers.

Whether you want to make active travel the sole focus of your trip or treat it as just an add-on, there are many different ways to approach it. This chapter lays out your options, from tour operators who run multi-activity packages to the best spots to visit outdoors (with listings of tour operators, guides, and outfitters that specialize in each), and it provides an overview of Alberta's parks.

Skiing

One of the quickest, easiest, most comfortable (and most vigorous) ways to see the majesty of Alberta's Rockies is via its world-class ski resorts. People travel from all over the world to ski here, and with good reason: The Rockies boast some of the best skiing to be found anywhere. Lift tickets range from C$55 to C$75 per day (adult), with tickets for children a bargain at approximately one-third the cost of the adult fare.

High-speed lifts spirit you to the top of snowy peaks, from which you descend through fluffy, powdery snow; if you get cold, each resort has state-of-the-art lodges to warm you up. And after a day of high altitudes and fresh air, the various amenities of the nearby towns -- Banff, Lake Louise, Canmore, or Jasper -- can offer you every imaginable comfort.

The largest of Alberta's ski areas -- and one of the largest in North America -- is Lake Louise (tel. 800/258-SNOW in North America, or 403/552-3555; www.skilouise.com), near Banff, which sprawls over several peaks. With its 1,680 skiable hectares (4,200 acres) and 113 named runs, Lake Louise has been named the most scenic ski area in North America by Ski magazine.

Sunshine Village (tel. 403/762-6500; www.skibanff.com), 15 minutes west of Banff off Highway 1, receives more snow than any ski area in the Canadian Rockies -- more than 9m (30 ft.) per year!

Banff Mount Norquay (tel. 403/762-4421; www.banffnorquay.com) is just outside the town of Banff. Norquay caters to family skiing and offers day care, instruction, and night skiing.

In Kananaskis Country, just east of Banff, you'll find Nakiska (tel. 800/258-7669 or 403/591-7777; www.skinakiska.com), where skiers can follow in the tracks of past Winter Olympians; Nakiska was built for the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympic games, and is still an operating ski area.

In Jasper, you'll find Ski Marmot Basin (tel. 780/852-3816; www.skimarmot.com), located 19km (12 miles) west of Jasper on Highway 93. Marmot is generally underrated as a ski resort; it doesn't get the crowds of Banff, but is a great ski area with a ton of varied terrain.

For some urban skiing, try Calgary's Canada Olympic Park (tel. 403/247-5452; www.coda.ab.ca). Located on a slope on the west side of town, the facility was heavily spruced up for the Olympics, adding ski jump, luge, and bobsled facilities to the old ski area terrain (all of which you can sample as a tourist, if you like).

Cross-country skiers will find endless pleasure in exploring the Canmore Nordic Centre (tel. 403/678-2400), also built for the 1988 games. More than 70km (42 miles) of trails are available to skiers all winter; Trail Sports (on site) offers ski rentals, skill-building courses, and guided excursions.

Hiking & Mountain Climbing

This is a big one in alpine Alberta.

In a nutshell, Alberta's varied alpine terrain and transition zones offer hiking enthusiasts endless choices for all kinds of excursions, from short trips through rolling foothills and spare forest and along swift-running alpine creeks and rivers to multi-day excursions up and over mountain passes, past towering waterfalls and massive glaciers, through the Continental Divide -- on and on and on.

Some regions are particularly conducive to hiking excursions (read: the mountains); read on for some guidelines, including where to find trail maps and tour operators.

In the Canmore/Kananaskis area, Tourism Canmore (tel. 866/CAN-MORE or 403/678-1296; www.tourismcanmore.com) has a comprehensive guide of hiking trails near town as well as throughout Kananaskis Country (a shorter version can also be found on the website, under "hiking trails"); here, just east of Banff, the terrain is a little more varied -- not strictly alpine per se, and you'll find a range of mountain meadows and foothills in addition to the jagged peaks. For guided tours, contact Inside Out (tel. 888/999-7238; www.insideoutexperience.com) in Canmore; they can set you up with a huge variety of guided hikes in the area; costs per person are C$69 (C$49 for youths or groups of 8 or more) for half-day hikes or C$139 (C$129 for youths or groups) for a full-day hike. All guided tours include shuttle service to the trailhead. Mahikan Trails (tel. 866/776-HIKE or 403/609-2489; www.mahikan.ca) will lead you to archaeologically significant First Nations sites in the area. The cost for youths and adults is C$69 per half day, or C$124 including lunch.

Banff National Park offers an almost immeasurable number of hiking options (1,600km, or 1,000 miles' worth), from short day trips to multi-day treks. Not all of them are difficult (though many are), but be aware that the easier hikes tend to draw the most crowds in summer. Banff/Lake Louise Tourism (tel. 403/762-8421; www.banfflakelouisetourism) can provide detailed trail maps, as well as steer you to the appropriate outfitter and/or guide for your needs. The Sunshine Meadows guided hike takes you above the Sunshine Village ski area and into a gorgeous alpine meadow. It costs C$116.50 per person.

In Jasper, your best bet for hiking isn't the local tourist authority, Jasper Tourism (tel. 780/852-3858; www.jaspercanadianrockies.com), though they are able to help with hiking guides and trail maps. The real hiking authority in Jasper is the Hike Jasper guide, a tremendous online resource run by local enthusiasts. On their website, www.hikejasper.com, you'll find their take on the best hikes summer and winter, night-time hiking, and a listing of the best guides plying the park and their offerings (a top one is a five-day guided hike retracing the route of fabled explorer David Thompson as he pushed through the Rockies and on to the Pacific Ocean).

Waterton Lakes National Park is considerably less developed than the other national parks in Alberta -- which, overall, is a good thing. At the park office (tel. 403/859-2252; www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/Waterton) you'll find all the information you need, from maps of hiking trails to weather conditions. They'll also let you know if there's been a bear or cougar sighting recently -- handy info if you plan to venture forth on foot.

However, Waterton's relatively untrammeled wilderness will make finding a guide a little tougher. You can try the one outfitter in town, Tamarack Outdoor Outfitters (tel. 403/859-2378), which may be able to hook you up with a game local; otherwise, follow the guidelines the parks service provides, and be aware of wildlife: This is the wildest of Alberta's mountain parks.

Outdoor Safety -- Most tours and activities are extremely safe, but there are risks involved in any adventure activity. The risks in activities such as mountain climbing and white-water rafting can be considerable. Know and respect your own physical limits and skills (or lack thereof) before undertaking any high-risk activity.

Also be prepared for extremes in temperature and rainfall, and wide fluctuations in weather. A sunny morning hike can quickly become a cold and wet ordeal, so it's a good idea to carry some form of rain gear when hiking in the mountains; bring sufficient protection against the cold at high altitudes, and have a dry change of clothing waiting at the end of the trail. Be sure to bring plenty of sunscreen, no matter where you travel.

If you do any trekking or camping, exercise caution with the native species that live in natural habitats. Be aware of large mammals like bears; make plenty of noise along the trails and let them know you're coming -- they have as little interest in running into you as you do them. If you're camping, make sure to store your food safely out of reach and scent, preferably hoisted at least 3m (10 ft.) in the air over a tree branch.

If you are bitten by a raccoon, marmot, or another creature, such as a bat, there is a small risk of rabies (there have been 24 reported cases in all of Canada since 1924, but an elderly man in Alberta died in 2007 after being bitten by a rabid bat). Wash out the wound thoroughly with soap and water, and seek medical attention.

Avoid drinking directly from mountain rivers, streams, and lakes; the waters can contain microbes -- like Giardia, a parasite that causes extreme nausea and vomiting -- that will wreak havoc on your digestive system. If you want to use water from the streams or lakes, either boil it for at least five minutes, or bring some kind of water filtration system with you (available at most outdoors stores).

Having said all that, Alberta's bounteous nature needs to be protected from visitors more than visitors need to be protected from it. A fundamental component of enjoying nature is leaving the natural environment undisturbed. The responsible outdoor traveler's maxim is: Take nothing but memories (and photos); leave nothing but footprints. Do not cut or uproot plants or flowers. Pack out everything you pack in, and never litter. Leave places the way you found them. If you see garbage lying around in protected areas, pack it out, along with your own trash. Don't scratch your name or any other graffiti on trees or monuments. On trails, bury your excrement as far as possible from the trail.

Fishing

Alberta's fast-running mountain rivers and streams, as well as its northern lakes, offer a great many opportunities for anglers. The north in particular, in the Peace-Athabasca delta, is a favorite; hundreds of remote lakes throughout the wetlands offer sport fishers ample opportunity to trawl for lake trout, northern pike, and walleye.

Keep in mind that you need a license (C$9.50) to catch fish in Alberta. Most fishing outfitters in the province sell them, as well as many sporting goods stores.

Fort McMurray Tourism (tel. 780/791-4336; www.fortmcmurraytourism.com) offers a list of approved fishing tour operators and lodges, most which fly you in to the lakes on tiny floatplanes (there are very few roads in the north) for two days or longer of angling in the northern wilderness. Mikisew Sport Fishing (tel. 888/268-7112 or 780/743-8218; www.mikisewsportfishing.com) is one of the oldest of such tour operators; it offers trips to more than a dozen remote lakes all over the north with an assortment of 5-day packages.

In the national parks, you'll find tour operators (far too many to list here) that offer anything from hip-wading fly fishing in the rivers to trawling the mountain lakes. Be warned: Unless you're an experienced fly fisher or very familiar with the area, do not attempt to wade into the mountain rivers on your own. The water is ice-cold, and the current is unpredictable at different points in the river and at different times of the year. An imprudent wade in the wrong place or at the wrong time could easily kill you.

In Canmore, Inside Out (tel. 888/999-7238; www.insideoutexperience.com), the one-stop shopping tour center, can find you a reputable guide. In Banff, both Banff Fishing Unlimited (tel. 403/762-4936; www.banff-fishing.com) and Big Jim Dykstra (a fair name, since Jim stands 6?5?), the owner/operator of Hawgwild Flyfishing (tel. 403/678-7980; www.flyfishingbanff.com), will pick you up and take you to various favorite spots in Banff and in and around the Canmore/Kananaskis area. Banff Fishing Unlimited offers fly fishing as well as lake fishing; Dykstra specializes in fly fishing only -- and guarantees a catch, or your money back.

In Jasper, you can take a guided fishing trip on Maligne Lake with Maligne Tours (tel. 780/852-3370; www.malignelake.com). They include equipment, lunch, and hotel transportation. Currie's Guiding (tel. 780/852-5650; www.curriesguidingjasper.com) specializes in fishing in Jasper, so if you're looking for a longer or more varied excursion with hardcore anglers, they're a good bet.

Bird Watching

Being on the migratory route for hundreds of species of birds, Alberta is a great option for those looking for alpine birds, prairie species, and the many species that nest in the Northern Alberta Wetlands.

Banff National Park has more than 260 recorded species, and birding is good even in the winter. Look for Clark's nutcrackers, whiskeyjacks, black-capped, boreal, and mountain chickadees.

Inside and all around Wood Buffalo National Park, in the far north, is the Peace-Athabasca delta, one of the biggest inland freshwater deltas in the world, where migratory birds from all four North American flyways pass through each spring and autumn. The park also protects the last remaining wild nesting area of the endangered whooping crane, as well as some nesting sites of the threatened peregrine falcon.

McLennan, or the "Bird Capital of Canada," is located about an hour and a half northeast of Grande Prairie. It's one of the most significant waterfowl staging areas in Northern Alberta, where more than 206 species have been identified. Visit the Kimiwan Lake area, an internationally renowned wetland; here, the Interpretive Centre, staffed from May through September, has plenty of info on the many shorebirds and waterfowl that populate the area.

In Grande Prairie, the rare trumpeter swans are so numerous that in late April the town celebrates their arrival at nearby Crystal Lake with a weekend festival.

The Clifford E. Lee Nature Sanctuary, southwest of Edmonton, is one of Alberta's "Special Places," as designated by the provincial government. Trails wind their way through marshes, sand hills, meadows, and aspen and pine woods. May through August is the best time to visit.

Newell Lake, near Drumheller, is a good place to see white pelicans and American avocets in the summer. And Jasper National Park is chock full of species, with its range of habitats from alpine meadows and tundra to forested valleys. Visit Talbot Lake for waterfowl, and Cottonwood Slough for owls. Late March through September is best.

Tour operators that specialize in birding are few and far between: Wayne Millar, of Edmonton-based Watchable Wildlife Tours (tel. 780/405-4880; www.birdsandbackcountry.com) can tailor a bird-watching excursion to your tastes; his rates start at C$225 per person for a 12-hour tour, minimum 2 people. E-mail the Edmonton Nature Club (contact@enc.fanweb.ca) for more information on birding in the province.

Most of the major tour operators in places like Banff and Jasper, mentioned elsewhere in this chapter, can steer you to birding excursions in their locality.

Horseback Riding

When you're in Alberta, a horse is never too far away. Tours range from an afternoon -- or as little as an hour -- to a week through the back country to riding range on a cattle herd on a real working ranch. This is cowboy country, after all; horses aren't just tourist curiosities -- they're workers.

There are plenty of riding options in the mountain parks, and you can hardly go wrong riding into the midst of the majestic peaks that surround you.

Just before you reach Waterton Lakes National Park, you pass through the aptly named hamlet of Mountain View, from which the Rockies loom in the near distance. Here, you'll find not much more than gas and a general store, but just off Route 5 is the Nelson Ranch, home of Mountain Meadow Trail Rides (tel. 866/653-2413; www.mountainmeadowtrailrides.com). The Nelson family has owned this ranch, a 2,000-acre spread tucked into the province's southwest corner, since 1898. It's also become a guest ranch in recent years, which means the family's 50 horses are put into regular service for trail rides for greenhorns passing through. Mountain Meadows charges C$38 per person for a 90-minute ride; a 3-day/2-night package, all meals included, is C$630 per person.

In the park itself, Alpine Stables (tel. 403/859-2462), across from the golf course on the way to the townsite on Entrance Road, offers guided rides on more than 250km (155 miles) of trails; tours range from one hour to overnighters. One-hour rides are C$30 per person; full days are C$135. Overnighters start at C$375 per person.

In Banff, try Warner Guiding and Outfitting (tel. 800/661-8352 or 403/762-4551; www.horseback.com). Multiday trail rides, which start at C$615 for a 3-day lodge-to-lodge trip and peak at C$1,236 for a 6-day backcountry tenting trip, explore some of the most remote areas of the park.

Some rides climb up to backcountry lodges, which serve as base camps for further exploration; other trips involve a backcountry circuit, with lodging in tents. Shorter day rides are also offered from two stables near the townsite. A morning ride with brunch goes for C$88.

Operating out of Lake Louise, Timberline Tours (tel. 888/858-3388 or 403/522-3743; www.timberlinetours.ca) offers day trips to some of the area's more prominent beauty sites, starting at C$50 for 90 minutes of riding. Three- to 10-day pack trips are also offered. Another good option for those more adept at dealing with saddle sores are the summertime tours into Sundance Lodge (tel. 800/661-8352; www.xcskisundance.com); during summer, the remote wilderness lodge operates with Holiday on Horseback (tel. 800/661-8352; www.horseback.com) offering multiday expeditions leaving Banff regularly. A 2-day pack trip to the lodge costs C$434 during May, June, September, and October and C$491 during July and August.

In Jasper, for a short ride call Pyramid Stables (tel. 780/852-7433), which offers 1- to 3-hour trips (C$30-C$75) around Pyramid and Patricia lakes.

Long-distance trail rides take you into the backcountry. Skyline Trail Rides (tel. 888/582-7787 or 780/852-4215; www.skylinetrail.com) offers a number of short day trips costing roughly C$35 per hour, as well as 3- to 4-day trips to a remote, albeit modernized, lodge. Sleigh rides are offered in winter.

Of course, most will tell you the best place to ride is in the foothills, among the working ranches and herds, many of which offer guest packages that include all meals and accommodations. Alberta has been ranch country for well over a century, and the Old West lifestyle is deeply ingrained in Albertan culture. There's also the long Alberta tradition of guest ranches, where you can spend a few days indulging in a cowboy fantasy.

At Seebe, in Kananaskis Country near the entrance to Banff National Park, are a couple of the oldest and most famous ranches. Rafter Six Ranch (tel. 888/267-2624 or 403/673-3691; www.raftersix.com) has a beautiful old log lodge. The original Brewster homestead was transformed in 1923 into the Brewster's Kananaskis Guest Ranch (tel. 800/691-5085 or 403/673-3737; www.kananaskisguestranch.com).

The Black Cat Guest Ranch (tel. 800/859-6840 or 403/865-3084; www.blackcatguestranch.ca), near Hinton just east of Jasper, was once a winter horse camp.

At all of these, horseback riding and trail rides are the main focus, but other western activities, such as rodeos, barbecues, and country dancing, are usually on the docket.

Close to Calgary is the Homeplace Ranch (tel. 877/931-3245 or 403/931-3245; www.homeplaceranch.com), a guest ranch run by the McKinney family in the glorious environs of the high foothills. The McKinney family homesteaded here in 1912, and still runs a cattle ranch on their vast property, but welcome guests for riding tours and lessons. Packages start at C$809 for 4 days and 3 nights, and include all meals, accommodation, and riding.

A night at a guest ranch usually ranges from C$90 to C$200, depending on what style of room you choose, and includes breakfast. Full bed-and-board packages are available for longer stays. There's usually an additional fee for horseback riding. Home stays at smaller working ranches are also possible. Here you can pitch in and help your ranch-family hosts with their work, or simply relax. For a stay on a real mom-and-pop farm, obtain a list of member ranches from Alberta Country Vacations Association (tel. 403/722-3053; www.albertacountryvacation.com).

Mountain Biking

Where to begin? Some of the earliest adopters in the annals of this sport were rabid cyclists in Alberta, and the province remains one of the hotbeds of mountain biking. In Canmore, the site of the Nordic events for the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympic Games, the lasting legacy is the Canmore Nordic Centre (1988 Olympic Way, Canmore; tel. 403/678-2400), which is probably ten times as busy in summer as in winter thanks to the adaptability of the ski trails to mountain biking. More than 70km (42 miles) of trails are taken over by hikers and mountain bikers in summer, and Trail Sports (on site) offers bike rentals, skill-building courses, and guided rides.

Mountain biking in the national parks is a little bit trickier, given the sensitive nature of the environment, not to mention the throngs of tourists that might be meandering the trails at any given time.

Most mountain bike trails in the Rockies are designated as multi-use trails, meaning that hikers and horses will also be sharing the trail with you. To avoid conflicts and ensure everyone's safety, read and abide by the Rules of the Trail as set by the International Mountain Bicycling Association (www.imba.com). Keep in mind that many trails go through remote areas, so be prepared for potential mechanical difficulties far from a bike shop.

Mountain biking in Banff is permitted only in certain areas, which vary by season and year to year, depending on sensitivity; to see what areas are open, go to www.canadianrockies.net/banff/biking.html. The same is true of Jasper, where information, trail maps, and excluded areas can be found at www.explorejasper.com/recreation/biking.htm.

For an experienced mountain biking guide through Kananaskis Provincial Park, near Canmore, as well as Banff and Jasper, try Inside Out (tel. 888/999-7238; www.insideoutexperience.com), an experienced, multi-faceted tour operator that can hook you up with guides for almost anything (not just mountain biking).

To rent a bike in Jasper, contact Freewheel Cycle (tel. 780/852-3898; www.visit-jasper.com/freewheel.html). One-hour mountain bike rental costs C$12, or C$40 per day. In Banff, contact Bactrax (tel. 403/762-8177; www.snowtips-bactrax.ca), which rents mountain bikes for C$11/hour or C$38 per day.

White-Water Rafting

Compared to some of the major white-water destinations, Alberta is fairly tame; the mountain rivers and streams here are relatively small, and the water not terribly white, most of the time.

That's not to say there's not fun to be had; and if you're a neophyte, it can be a good place to, ah, get your feet wet. In Kananaskis, near Canmore, the Kananaskis and Bow rivers are the main draw. Inside Out Experience, above, can provide more information on rafting packages. Also, the Canadian Rockies Rafting Company (tel. 877/226-7625; www.rafting.ca) is among the most established rafting tour companies in the area, with a range of different trips -- the more gentle ride along the Kananaskis River, to the white-water rush of the Bow River's Horseshoe Canyon (with rapids as high as Class IV). Full-day trips start at C$125 for adults or C$115 for ages 12 to 15 (under 12 not permitted), lunch included. These are mountain rivers, so bear in mind that the water is very cold. Chinook Rafting (tel. 866/330-7238; www.chinookraft.ca) operates out of the Nakoda Lodge in Kananaskis Country, and offers very similar adventures.

And even though it's not like rafting the mighty Colorado River, rafting here is not without its dangers. If you're just experimenting with river rafting, stick to Class II and III rivers. If you already know your way around a raft and a paddle, there are Class IV and even a few V sections to run.