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Best Dining Bets
The Blue Pear (tel. 780/482-7178): Set in an unassuming strip mall in Edmonton's 124th Street district, the Blue Pear might just be one of the best restaurants in the country. Run by a husband-and-wife team with a stout devotion to local, organic ingredients, the culinary results are no less than symphonic: lamb ravioli in a yoghurt brown butter sauce; roast pork belly, crab cake, soya-pea puree with pancetta-wrapped enoki mushrooms -- the list goes on. Each plate -- there are four courses for C$85, no exceptions -- arrives like a carefully constructed piece of art. But the real art is the flavor.
The Bison Mountain Bistro (tel. 403/762-5550): New in 2008, the Bison, on the second floor of a new "green" building in Banff, offers an array of local ingredients simply prepared with flavor in mind. The name tells the tale: bison -- burgers, steaks, or smoked -- or venison pepperoni, all worked in to meals as thoughtful and flavorful as they are simple. A general store, with house-made breads and ingredients or whole sandwiches to go, is the busiest place in town -- and deserves to be.
The Edith Cavell Dining Room (tel. 780/852-6052): The main level of the Jasper Park Lodge offers the refined mountaineer the white-glove treatment: The Edith Cavell, named for the majestic peak that rises above the lake just outside the dining room window, is old-world fine dining. And fine it is: Multiple courses served by a battalion of servers, all with focused roles (appetizer, salad, cocktail, wine, de-crumber). Meanwhile, in all of Alberta, its beef tenderloin is perhaps the most perfectly grilled piece of beef to be found anywhere. And that's saying something.
Towa (tel. 403/245-8585): It doesn't cost an arm and a leg and its environment is decidedly casual -- cartoony, even -- but Calgary's Towa sushi earns huge marks for sheer inventiveness. Maki rolls the size of your wrist and sashimi that seem to require an entire side of fish are the hallmarks of this creative Japanese restaurant. Size isn't all that matters: its combinations, like an unagi roll made with sweet omelete, avocado, and freshwater eel, are ingenious flavor combinations. Add in the lively young crowd, and this is a winner.
Mercato (tel. 403/263-5535): One of Calgary's true see-and-be-seens, Mercato deserves the hype: fresh, traditional Italian with a contemporary twist that is as consistent as it is delicious. Sublime pastas, fresher-than-fresh salads and cheeses, a deep respect for the simplest ingredients like olive oil and balsamic vinegar -- all earn Mercato high marks. The food's not the only thing that's fresh here, though. If you can cast a glance away from the brilliance on your plate, you'll understand quickly enough.
Baker Creek Bistro (tel. 403/522-2182): An unassuming spot on a secondary road that hooks through the mountains just a few minutes east of Lake Louise, you'd be forgiven for driving by the Baker Creek Chalets if looking for fine dining. The chalets are lovely, set alongside a burbling creek, but the dining room, in an unassuming log cabin, should be the main attraction. Fresh local food served with grace and contemporary panache by chef Shelley Robinson is a delight and surprise, and well worth a step off the beaten track.
Jack's Grill (tel. 403/434-1113): An Edmonton institution for those in the know, Jack's, tucked in a quiet residential area, has a lovely courtyard and an even lovelier simple, creative menu. The emphasis is on the carnivorous here -- try the simply grilled beef tenderloin, infused with interest by the addition of Stilton, or the New Zealand venison rack -- but it's always simple, and always creative.
The 1886 Buffalo Café (tel. 403/269-9255): The name means what it says: Founded in 1886 (the "Buffalo" was added in recent years) and made moderately famous by a Visa ad made for the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympics, Calgary's 1886 is probably the longest-running breakfast in town, if not the whole country. The hash browns are piled high, the bacon and sausages are fresh and perfectly cooked, the flapjacks come in towers, and the array of egg dishes is dizzying. Choose the fresh fruit over the potatoes -- it's worth it.
Fleur du Sel (tel. 403/228-9764): Locals don't get more local than this. With its rich, red walls and black-and-white tile, everything about Calgary's Fleur de Sel screams "French!" -- including its boisterous owner and chef, Patrice. Like most of his staff, he knows most of the customers by name, and greets them with the enthusiasm of a favorite uncle. Traditional French bistro fare, served in a homey environment, make this a great stop to take the pulse of the town.
Evil Dave's (tel. 780/852-3323): The loyal following of locals should be your first clue that this Jasper resto, with its devotion to theme -- "Malevolent" home-style Alberta beef meatloaf, or "Ex-Wife" spicy tomato penne, with chicken and shrimp -- is a keeper. Chef David Hussereau, who also runs the considerably more haute local Tekarra Restaurant, is looking to unwind, but his cooking here is just as razor-sharp.
Frommer's Down-Home Favorites
Not everything makes the dining guide, for whatever reason (lack of chairs might be one; being served out of the back of a bus might be another). And for all its sophistication, my home town of Calgary remains burger central. Of the eateries not mentioned in the dining guide, I have to count a handful of down-home Calgary options as sentimental favorites:
- Peter's Drive-In: Old-school, unassuming, and constantly packed, Peter's is a Calgary classic. Located at 219 16th Ave. NE, a busy stretch of road not far from the university, Peter's serves up basic, honest fare at more than fair prices (a cheeseburger is C$3.60; a double C$4.20). To have a burger at Peter's is to taste a Calgary legend; for the full experience, go right at noon and join the line-up. The waiting is part of the fun.
- Rocky's Burger Bus: This might be the only retired Calgary Transit Bus/Burger Stand to make Gourmet magazine (where, in 2003, its signature double was described as a "meat orgy"). Parked at the Blackfoot Farmer's Market at 4645 12th St. SE (it's been painted bright red) Rocky's has been a fixture for decades -- longevity it has earned with piled-high burgers and made-to-order fries.
- Chicken and fritters at Chicken-on-the-Way in Kensington: Just keep in mind you're not at this old-school fried chicken joint for your health. Get yourself some chicken and some beautifully crunchy, honey-dipped fritters, all wrapped in brown paper, stroll the few blocks to the river (Chicken-on-the-Way is at 1415 Kensington Rd., at 14th St. NW), drop yourself on the grassy slopes of Memorial Park, and enjoy.
- Raspberry bread at Glamorgan Bakery: You would never, ever find this place if you didn't go looking for it. A tiny storefront tucked into a strip mall at the city's western edge, where the foothills start to roll, Glamorgan Bakery -- a purebred Scottish endeavor -- has been serving up baked decadences for more than 30 years. My favorite is their raspberry bread, an unbelievably soft loaf of white bread that somehow has fresh raspberry compote baked into it in a delicious swirl. Served toasted with a generous slather of butter, there's nothing better. Glamorgan Bakery is at 3919 Richmond Rd. SW; they recently re-did their façade, so you might have an easier time finding it now.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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