Amalfi & the Industry of Papermaking -- Amalfi is believed to be the first European location where paper as we know it today was made. The process was discovered by the Arabs and perfected in the Arab town of El-Marubig, where the original name bambagina referred to the special kind of paper that became known as paper of Amalfi, made from recycled cotton, linen, and hemp cloths. The process was then exported to Amalfi through the close commercial relationship the republic had with the Arab world. Considered less durable than parchment, paper was still forbidden in 1250 for public use, but the industry developed rapidly and Amalfi sold its paper far and wide throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Paper continued to be made by hand till the 18th century, when machines were finally introduced; at that time there were 16 paper mills in the area, 10 of which are still active today. The cloths (or rags) were reduced to a poultice in large vats and then strained in forms marked with the symbol of the paper mill. The paper was then pressed between layers of woolen felt to extract excess water, air dried, and finally "ironed." Even if it was considered inferior to parchment or vellum, this paper was of high quality: The oldest sheets still in existence date from the 13th and 14th centuries. The bambagina of Amalfi is still highly appreciated by many -- for example, the Vatican uses Amalfi paper for its correspondence.
If you wish to visit one of the working mills, Cartiera Amatruda (Via Marino del Giudice; tel. 089-871315) is still run by the original family, who welcomes visitors and will give you a tour of their facilities. Antonio Cavaliere (Via Fiume; tel. 089-871954), one of the descendants of the ancient master papermakers, is another, smaller option. Antonio's specialty is paper with real dried flowers as filigree, ideal for very special letters.
Both shops produce paper of an almost forgotten quality, made completely by hand, which is sold to the most exclusive paper shops in Italy, Europe, and the U.S. The water for this craft still comes from the covered river that crosses town and was the key resource in the development of Amalfi's paper industry. Both workshops are open regular business hours.
