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The food doesn't match the harbor view, but a decent place to refresh during your walking tour of Pago Pago is the inexpensive Waterfront Restaurant (tel. 633-1199), in the Fagatogo Square shops opposite the High Court. It offers pizzas, fried chicken, sandwiches, hamburgers, hot dogs, nachos, fish and chips, and daily specials such as fried fish with rice and gravy, a fattening local favorite. It's open Monday to Friday 6am to 5pm and Saturday 6am to 3pm; it does not take credit cards.

A Fascinating Pit Stop -- Ramshackle bars by the beach are part of the South Seas lore, but few of these establishments actually exist these days. One that does is Tisa's Barefoot Bar on Alega Beach (tel. 622-7447). This funky joint looks slapped together because it is. The owners put it together from driftwood, scrap lumber, well-worn tables, and whatever else they could find. Libation is served daily from 11am to 7pm, with seafood dinners afterward by advance reservation only. You can go snorkeling and swimming here at high tide, and you can pay your bill at any tide with your American Express, MasterCard, or Visa.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.