Hotels

Is your preference old-world charm combined with luxurious quarters? Glitzy modernity with every conceivable amenity? Small, intimate, family-run hotels? A historic canal house reflecting the lifestyle of centuries past? A modern, medium-size hotel on the fringe of inner-city bustle? A bare-bones dorm room that frees up scarce dollars for other purposes? Amsterdam has them all, and more. Some hotels share more than one of these characteristics: A common fusion is that of historic canal house on the outside and glitzy, amenity-laden modernity on the inside.

You probably have your own idea of what makes a great hotel. My advice is to let your choice reflect the kind of city Amsterdam is -- democratic, adventurous, quirky, and always in search of that enigmatic Dutch quality, gezelligheid, which is the ambience that makes a place warm, cozy, and welcoming. You can find this quality at all price levels, and especially among moderately priced hotels owned by locals.

Summer Stays: Reserve Ahead -- July and August are tough months for finding rooms in Amsterdam; you're advised to reserve as far ahead as possible. If you have problems getting a room, contact the VVV Amsterdam tourist office, which will find you one somewhere, though it might not be in the kind of hotel you want. It can be particularly hard to find hoteliers willing to give away rooms for a single night when that might cost them a longer booking. In this circumstance, a last-minute search might be called for, since a hotel that's had a last-minute cancellation is more likely to consider single-night occupancy. This is a possible exception to the rule that a last-minute search is the wrong way to go about finding a hotel room in Amsterdam.

Booking a B&B -- B&B accommodations are available by contacting Bed & Breakfast Holland (tel. 020/615-7527; www.bedandbreakfastholland.nl). Rates per person range from 30€ to 240€ ($48-$384), depending on amenities, location, and season. There's generally a 2-night minimum stay.

Bed Rest -- In 1969, John Lennon and Yoko Ono "drove from Paris to the Amsterdam Hilton" to do their famous Bed-In For Peace, from March 15 to March 31, in the hotel's room no. 902. This is now the expensive John and Yoko Suite. The Hilton is at Apollolaan 138 in Amsterdam South (tel. 020/710-6000).