Attractions

Amsterdam affords sightseers an almost bewildering embarrassment of riches. There are miles and miles of canals to cruise, hundreds of narrow streets to wander, 7,000 historical buildings to see in the old center, more than 60 museums of all types to visit, diamond cutters and craftspeople to watch as they practice generations-old skills -- the list is as long as every tourist's individual interests, and then some.

The city has 160 canals -- more than Venice! -- with a combined length of 76km (47 miles), spanned by 1,281 bridges -- also more than Venice (though not as many as Hamburg). The first thing you should do is join the 2.5 million people every year who take a canal ride on one of 70 tour boats. Why? Because the water-level view of those gabled canal houses and the picturesque bridges lends meaning and color to everything else you do in Amsterdam.

Yet most of Amsterdam's attractions are hidden, and they're not even attractions in any conventional sense. They're part of a fabric of life, a special but elusive atmosphere that's been slowly evolving for centuries. There are few open vistas or bombastic buildings; rather, the city's enclosed within itself. You'll need to dig a certain amount to get at these hidden-in-plain-sight places. Above all, maintain that certain attitude: a willingness to slow down, open up, and mentally unbutton.

The Big Three -- Two of Amsterdam's big three attractions -- the Rijksmuseum and the van Gogh Museum -- are around Museumplein, a big square just south of the old center. Most of the square consists of open green areas bordered by avenues of linden trees and gardens and criss-crossed by walking and bike paths. At Museumplein's north end is a long pond that serves as a handy foot-cooler in summer and has served as a skating rink in winter, though it's not certain that the winter role will continue. The third of the trio, the Anne Frankhuis, is in the Center, on Prinsengracht.

By no means should you hit all three in a single day, not unless the judge sentenced you to. You'll wind up emotionally battered by the Anne Frankhuis, bedazzled by the van Gogh Museum, and, well, Rijksmuseum-ed by the Rijksmuseum. One per day's enough.

Market Makers -- Amsterdam has more than 50 outdoor markets every week. Some are permanent or semipermanent, and others just passing through. Three you shouldn't miss are the floating Bloemenmarkt (Flower Market) on Singel, the Waterlooplein Flea Market on Waterlooplein, and the Albert Cuyp Markt, on Albert Cuypstraat.