Getting There

By Plane

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is not only the airport of Amsterdam, but also the primary international airport of the Netherlands. The main airline operating into Schiphol is KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (a subsidiary of Air France), which has an alliance with U.S. carrier Northwest Airlines.

From the U.S. and Canada -- Carriers with frequent flights to Amsterdam from such cities as Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Memphis, Montréal, Newark, New York, San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto, Vancouver, and Washington, D.C., are: Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca); Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com); Delta Airlines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com); KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 800/225-2525; www.klm.com); Northwest Airlines (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com); and United Airlines (tel. 800/538-2929; www.united.com).

From the U.K. -- Airlines that fly to Amsterdam from a roster of cities that includes Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds/Bradford, Liverpool, London, Manchester, Newcastle, Norwich, and Teesside, are: British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850; www.britishairways.com); bmi (tel. 0870/607-0555; www.flybmi.com); easyJet (tel. 0905/560-7777; www.easyjet.com); and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 08705/074-074; www.klm.com).

From Ireland -- Aer Lingus (tel. 0818/365-000; www.aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Amsterdam.

From Australia -- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 1300/392-192; www.klm.com) and Qantas (tel. 131313; www.qantas.com.au) fly from Sydney to Amsterdam.

From New Zealand -- Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnewzealand.com) flies from Auckland to London, where you can transfer to Amsterdam.

Arriving at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol -- An airliner descending into Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (tel. 0900/0141 from inside Holland, and 31-20/794-0800 from outside; www.schiphol.nl; airport code: AMS), 13km (8 miles) southwest of the city center, has to descend more than it would if it were landing at almost any other airport; the runway is 4.5m (15 ft.) below sea level. Where the runway is now was once a lake with access to the sea -- the Dutch and Spanish fought a naval battle here in 1573. Schiphol (pronounced skhip-ol) is the main airport in the Netherlands, handling just about all of the country's international arrivals and departures. It's easy to see why frequent travelers regularly vote Schiphol a favorite airport: for its ease of use and its massive duty-free shopping center.

After deplaning at one of three adjacent terminals (numbered 1, 2, and 3), moving walkways take you to the Arrivals Hall, where you pass through Passport Control, Customs, and Baggage Claim. ATMs, free luggage carts, currency exchange kiosks, restaurants, bars, shops, baby-rooms, and restrooms are available. If you need a shower, find bathing facilities at Arrivals, in the Transit lounges, and at some executive lounges. There's also Schiphol Plaza, which offers rail station access, the Airport Hotel, a mall (sporting that most essential Dutch service -- a flower store), bars and restaurants, restrooms, baggage storage and lockers, airport and tourist information desks, car-rental desks (Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National, and Sixt), hotel-reservation desks, and more. Bus, shuttle, and taxi stops are just outside.

For tourist information and to make hotel reservations, go to the Holland Tourist Information desk in Schiphol Plaza (tel. from inside Holland 0900-400-4040; from outside, 31-20-201-8800), open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Netherlands Railways (tel. 0900/9292; www.ns.nl) trains for Amsterdam Centraal Station depart from Schiphol Station, downstairs from Schiphol Plaza, and stop at De Lelylaan and De Vlugtlaan stations in western Amsterdam along the way. Frequency ranges from six trains an hour at peak times to one an hour at night. The one-way fare is 3.60€ ($4.50); the trip takes about 20 minutes.

An alternative rail route serves both Amsterdam Zuid/WTC (World Trade Center) station and RAI station (near the RAI Convention Center). Be sure to check which route goes closest to your hotel (including any tram or bus interchange). If you're staying at a hotel near Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, in the Museum Quarter, or in Amsterdam South, this route may be better for you than Centraal Station. The fare to RAI is 2.50€ ($3.15) one-way; the trip takes about 15 minutes. From Amsterdam Zuid/WTC, take tram no. 5 for Leidseplein and the Museum Quarter; from RAI, take tram no. 4 for Rembrandtplein.

The Connexxion Hotel Shuttle (tel. 038/339-4741; www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl) runs daily every 10 to 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm, between the airport and some 100 Amsterdam hotels. Reservations aren't necessary, and buses depart from in front of Schiphol Plaza. Buy tickets from the Connexxion desk inside Schiphol Plaza or on board from the driver (or, for the return journey, from your hotel). The fare is 12€ ($15) one-way and 19€ ($24) round-trip; for children ages 4 to 14, it's 5.50€ ($6.90) one-way and 8.75€ ($11) round-trip. It takes only 15 minutes from the airport to the Hilton, but almost an hour to the NH Barbizon Palace; going the opposite direction, the timing's reversed. In addition, some hotels near the airport and in town have their own shuttle service.

Connexxion line bus service from Schiphol is likely to be less useful for arriving travelers, since line buses are slower than both the train and the Connexxion hotel shuttle. The most useful line, no. 370, departs half-hourly to hourly Monday to Friday, and hourly Saturday, Sunday and holidays from in front of Schiphol Plaza; it goes to Amsterdam's downtown Marnixstraat bus station via Museumplein and Leidseplein. Connexxion buses also serve other points; comprehensive information is available on the Connexxion website and at bus stops outside Schiphol Plaza.

Taxis are expensive, but they're the preferred choice if your luggage is burdensome or if there are multiple people to share the cost. You'll find taxis waiting at the Schiphol Taxi (tel. 0900/900-6666) stands in front of Schiphol Plaza. All taxis from the airport are metered. Expect to pay around 40€ ($50) to the Center. Remember, a service charge is already included in the fare.

In & Around Schiphol Airport -- Level 2 at Schiphol Plaza is the "quiet floor," with first-class, business-class, and private lounges, meeting rooms, and a place of worship and repose. Level 3 bustles with bars, eateries and a diamond store.

Take in an exhibit at the Zonneruiter art gallery or, if the weather is fine, stroll along the open-air promenade and observation deck, which has an excellent view of landing and departing aircrafts (this may be closed for security reasons).

After Passport Control is Schiphol's tax-free shopping center, renowned for its vast range of merchandise -- more than 100,000 items -- and low prices. Bars, cafes, and a variety of fast-food and self-service restaurants (including a Japanese sushi bar) are available here. Other services include a bank, post office, lost-baggage desk, and a KLM service center. There are also transfer desks, baggage lockers, and porters.

If you ran out of time to visit Amsterdam's famed Rijksmuseum, or if you just can't get enough of the Dutch Old Masters, the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol is for you. A dozen or so paintings are permanently displayed at this airport annex, midst changing exhibits of other works. The small museum is on Holland Boulevard, between Pier E and Pier F. It's open daily from 7am to 8pm, and admission is free.

Getting There by Boat from Britain

DFDS Seaways (tel. 0870/252-0524 in Britain; 0255/54-66-66 in Holland; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has daily car-ferry service between Newcastle in northeast England and IJmuiden on the North Sea coast, 24km (15 miles) west of Amsterdam. The overnight trip time is 15 hours. From IJmuiden, take a train via Netherland Railways (the Netherlands' only train company) to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

P&O Ferries (tel. 08705/980-333 in Britain; 020/210-3333 in Holland; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Rotterdam (into Europoort's harbor). The overnight trip time is 10 hours. Ferry company buses shuttle between the Rotterdam Europoort terminal and Rotterdam Centraal Station, from where there are frequent trains to Amsterdam.

Stena Line (tel. 08705/70-70-70 in Britain; 0900/8123 in Holland; www.stenaline.com) has twice-daily fast car-ferry service, and overnight and daytime "superferry" service between Harwich in southeast England and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland) near Rotterdam. The fast-ferry trip time is 3 hours, 40 minutes; the "superferry" trip takes 6 hours, 15 minutes. Frequent trains depart from Hoek van Holland to Amsterdam.

By Cruise Ship

Annually, Amsterdam welcomes some 100 ocean cruise liners from around the world and 700 river cruise boats from Europe's inland waterways. You'll likely arrive at the cruise-liner dock, Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Piet Heinkade 27 (tel. 020/509-1000; www.ptamsterdam.com; tram: 26), on the IJ waterway just east -- and within easy walking distance -- of Centraal Station.

By Train

Rail service to Amsterdam from elsewhere in Europe is frequent and fast. International trains arrive at Centraal Station from Brussels, Paris, Berlin, Cologne, and some cities in Spain, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and Eastern Europe.

Nederlandse Spoorwegen (Netherlands Railways; tel. 0900/9292; www.ns.nl) trains arrive in Amsterdam from towns and cities around Holland. Service is frequent and trains are modern, clean, and punctual.

Schedule and fare information about travel by train and other public transportation (openbaar vervoer) in the Netherlands is available by calling tel. 0900/9292, or visiting www.9292ov.nl. For international trains, call tel. 0900/9296.

The distinctive burgundy-colored Thalys (www.thalys.com) high-speed trains, with a top speed of 300kmph (186 mph), connect Paris, Brussels, and Cologne to Amsterdam. Travel time from Paris to Amsterdam is 4 hours, 10 minutes; from Brussels, it's 2 hours, 40 minutes. For Thalys information and reservations in France, call tel. 3635; in Belgium, tel. 020/528-2828; in Germany, tel. 11861; and in Holland, tel. 0900/9296. Tickets are also available from main railway stations and travel agents.

Britain is connected to mainland Europe via the Channel Tunnel (nicknamed "The Chunnel"). On Eurostar's (www.eurostar.com) high-speed train (top speed 258kmph/160 mph), travel time between London Waterloo Station and Brussels Midi Station (the closest connecting point for Amsterdam) is 3 1/4 hours. For Eurostar reservations, call tel. 08705/186-186 in Britain.

Arriving at Amsterdam Centraal Station -- If you arrive by train, you'll likely find yourself deposited at Amsterdam's Centraal Station, built in the 1880s on an artificial island in the IJ channel. The building, an ornate neo-Renaissance architectural wonder, is the bustling hub of the city's concentric rings of canals and connecting main streets, and the originating point for most of the city's trams, Metro trains, and buses.

An VVV Amsterdam tourist information office is located inside the station's Platform 2; a similar office is right in front of the station on Stationsplein. Both have hotel reservation desks. Other facilities at Centraal Station include a money exchange, ATMs, train info center, baggage office, luggage lockers, restaurants and snack bars, newsstands, and small specialty stores. The station is a departure point for Metro trains, trams (streetcars), buses, taxis, passenger ferries, water taxis, canal-boat cruises, the Museum Boat, and the Canal Bus. At the station's rear, there are docks for the ferry boats that shuttle passengers around the city's fast-developing waterfront.

Outside, on Stationsplein, there might be a barrel organ grinding away. The Smits Coffee House NZH (tel. 020/623-3777) has a pleasant waterside terrace overlooking the inner harbor; watch as canal boats glide by.

An array of tram stops are on either side of the main station exit -- virtually all of Amsterdam's hotels are within a 15-minute tram ride from Centraal Station. The Metro station is downstairs, just outside the main exit. City bus stops are to the left of the main exit, and taxi stands are to the right. At the GVB Tickets & Info office on Stationsplein, you can buy a strippenkaart (strip card) or dagkaart (day card) for trams, Metros, and buses.

Note: The station will be, for some years to come, a confusing construction site. Under development right now: a new Metro station, to be the hub of the Noord-Zuid (North-South) line. It's due to enter service in 2011. At the same time, construction is underway on a new main entrance and all-around improved passenger facilities. On top of all that, the waterfront zone at the rear is being completely revamped.

Beware: The station is a pickpocket convention that's in full swing at all times. Messages broadcast in multiple languages warn people to be on guard, but the artful dodgers still seem to do good business. Avoid becoming a victim by keeping money and valuables under wraps, especially amidst crowds. You'll likely also encounter a "heroin whore" or two, a platoon of panhandlers, and more than a whiff of pot smoke.

By Bus

International buses (sometimes known in Europe as "coaches), especially Eurolines' (www.eurolines.com), arrive at the bus terminal outside Amstel rail station (Metro: Amstel) in south Amsterdam. Eurolines operates bus service between London Victoria Bus Station and Amstel Station, with up to five daily departures in summer. Travel time is just over 12 hours. For reservations, contact Eurolines (tel. 08705/143-219 in Britain, or 020/560-8788 in Holland). From Amstel bus station, go by train and Metro to Centraal Station, and by tram no. 12 to the Museumplein area, and then to connecting points for trams to the Center. For the Leidseplein area, take the Metro toward Centraal Station, get out at Weesperplein, and go above ground to take tram lines 7 or 10.

Getting There by Car

To drive in Holland, drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from their home country.

The Netherlands is crisscrossed by a network of major international highways. European expressways E19, E35, E231, and E22 converge on Amsterdam from France and Belgium to the south and from Germany to the north and east. These roads also have Dutch designations; as you approach Amsterdam they become, respectively: A4, A2, A1, and A7. The city's ring road (beltway) is A10. Traffic is invariably heavy -- but distances between destinations are relatively short, road conditions are generally excellent, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted.

To drive from Britain to Amsterdam, use the efficient Le Shuttle (www.eurotunnel.com) automobile transporter through the Channel Tunnel from Folkestone to Calais (a 35-min. trip), and drive up from there through Belgium and Holland. Le Shuttle has departures every 15 minutes at peak times, every 30 minutes at times of average demand, and hourly at night. For information and reservations, call tel. 08705/35-35-35 in Britain, tel. 0810/63-03-04 in France, or tel. 0900/504-0540 in Holland. Reserving in advance makes sense at the busiest times, but the system is so fast, frequent, and simple that you may prefer to retain travel flexibility by just showing up, buying your ticket, waiting in line for a short while, and then driving aboard.

The best way to experience most European cities is to drive to the city, park your car, and never touch it again until you leave. In Amsterdam, it's smart not to even bring a car.