Getting There

Amsterdam can be reached from around the world by plane, by boat from Britain, and by train, bus, and car from around Europe.

By Plane

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is not only the airport of Amsterdam, but it's also the primary international airport of the Netherlands. The main airline operating into Schiphol is KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (a subsidiary of Air France), which has an alliance with U.S. carrier Northwest Airlines.

From the U.S. and Canada -- Carriers with frequent flights to Amsterdam from such cities as Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Minneapolis/St. Paul, Memphis, Montreal, Newark, New York, San Francisco, Seattle, Toronto, Vancouver, and Washington, D.C., are: Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca); Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com); Delta Airlines (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com); KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 800/225-2525; www.klm.com); Northwest Airlines (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com); and United Airlines (tel. 800/538-2929; www.united.com).

From the U.K. -- Airlines that fly to Amsterdam from a roster of cities that includes Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds/Bradford, Liverpool, London, Manchester, Newcastle, Norwich, and Teesside, are British Airways (tel. 0844/493-0787; www.britishairways.com); bmi (tel. 0870/607-0555; www.flybmi.com); easyJet (tel. 0905/821-0905; www.easyjet.com); and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 0871/222-7474; www.klm.com).

From Ireland -- Aer Lingus (tel. 0818/365-000; www.aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Amsterdam.

From Australia -- KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (tel. 1300/392-192; www.klm.com) and Qantas (tel. 131313; www.qantas.com.au) fly from Sydney to Amsterdam.

From New Zealand -- Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnewzealand.com) flies from Auckland to London, where you can transfer to Amsterdam.

Arriving at Amsterdam Airport Schiphol -- An airliner descending into Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport (tel. 0900/0141 from inside Holland, or 31-20/794-0800 from outside; www.schiphol.nl; airport code: AMS), 13km (8 miles) southwest of the center city, has to descend more than it would if it were landing at almost any other airport; the runway is 4.5m (15 ft.) below sea level. Where the runway is now was once a lake with access to the sea -- the Dutch and Spanish fought a naval battle here in 1573. Schiphol (pronounced skhip-ol) is the main airport in the Netherlands, handling just about all of the country's international arrivals and departures. It's easy to see why frequent travelers regularly vote Schiphol a favorite airport: for its ease of use and its massive tax-free shopping center, renowned for its vast range of merchandise -- more than 100,000 items -- and low prices.

After you deplane at one of three adjacent terminals (numbered 1, 2, and 3), moving walkways take you to the Arrivals Hall, where you enter either the E.U. Citizens or Non-E.U. Citizens section at Passport Control, then Baggage Claim, then one of two Customs clearance aisles, red or green, depending on whether or not you have goods to declare. ATMs, free luggage carts, currency-exchange kiosks, restaurants, bars, shops, baby rooms, and restrooms are available. If you need a shower, you'll find bathing facilities at Arrivals, in the Transit lounges, and at executive lounges.

Beyond Arrivals, in Schiphol Plaza, you'll find railway station access, the Sheraton Amsterdam Airport hotel, a mall (sporting that most essential Dutch service -- a flower store), bars, cafes, restaurants ranging from fast-food and self-service to posh establishments, and including a Japanese sushi bar, restrooms, a bank, post office, baggage storage and lockers, airport information desks, car-rental desks (Alamo, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National, and Sixt), hotel-reservation desks, and more. Bus, shuttle, and taxi stops are just outside. For tourist information and to make hotel reservations, go to the Holland Tourist Information desk (tel. 0900/400-4040) in Schiphol Plaza, open daily from 7am to 10pm.

Passing the Time at Schiphol Airport -- Level 2 at Schiphol Plaza is the "quiet floor," with first-class, business-class, and private lounges, meeting rooms, and a place of worship and repose. Level 3 bustles with bars, eateries, and a diamond store.

Take in an exhibit at the Zonneruiter art gallery or, if the weather is fine, stroll along the open-air promenade and observation deck, which has an excellent view of landing and departing aircrafts (this may be closed for security reasons).

If you ran out of time to visit Amsterdam's famed Rijksmuseum, or if you just can't get enough of the Dutch Old Masters, the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schiphol is for you. A dozen or so paintings are permanently displayed at this airport museum annex, amid changing exhibits of other works. The small museum is on Holland Boulevard, between Pier E and Pier F. It's open daily from 7am to 8pm, and admission is free.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Netherlands Railways (NS) (tel. 0900/9292; www.ns.nl) trains for Amsterdam Centraal Station depart from Schiphol Station, downstairs from Schiphol Plaza, and stop at De Lelylaan and De Vlugtlaan stations in western Amsterdam along the way. Frequency ranges from six trains an hour at peak times to one an hour at night. The one-way fare is 3.80€ ($6.10); the trip takes about 20 minutes.

An alternative rail route serves both Amsterdam Zuid/WTC (World Trade Center) station and RAI station (near the RAI Convention Center). Be sure to check which route goes closest to your hotel (including any tram or bus interchange). If you're staying at a hotel near Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, in the Museum Quarter, or in Amsterdam South, this route may be better for you than Centraal Station. The fare to RAI is 3.80€ ($6.10) one-way; the trip takes about 15 minutes. From Amsterdam Zuid/WTC, take tram no. 5 for Leidseplein and the Museum Quarter; from RAI, take tram no. 4 for Rembrandtplein.

The Connexxion Hotel Shuttle (tel. 038/339-4741; www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl) runs daily every 10 to 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm, between the airport and some 100 Amsterdam hotels. Reservations aren't necessary, and buses depart from in front of Schiphol Plaza. Tickets can be procured from the Connexxion desk inside Schiphol Plaza or on board from the driver (or, for the return journey, from your hotel). The fare is 13.50€ ($22) one-way and 22€ ($35) round-trip; for children ages 4 to 14, it's 6.75€ ($11) one-way and 11€ ($18) round-trip. It takes only 15 minutes from the airport to the Bilderberg Garden Hotel, but almost an hour to the NH Barbizon Palace; going the opposite direction, the timing's reversed. Some hotels have their own shuttle service.

Connexxion line bus service from Schiphol is likely to be less useful for arriving travelers, since line buses are slower than both the train and the Connexxion hotel shuttle. The most useful line, no. 370, departs half-hourly to hourly Monday to Friday, and hourly on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays from in front of Schiphol Plaza; it goes to Amsterdam's downtown Marnixstraat bus station via Museumplein and Leidseplein. Connexxion buses also serve other points; comprehensive information is available on the Connexxion website and at bus stops outside Schiphol Plaza.

Taxis are expensive, but they're the preferred choice if your luggage is burdensome or if there are multiple people to share the cost. You'll find taxis waiting at the SchipholTaxi (tel. 0900/900-6666; www.schipholtaxi.nl) stands in front of Schiphol Plaza. All taxis from the airport are metered. Expect to pay around 40€ ($64) to the center city. Remember, a service charge is already included in the fare.

By Boat from Britain

DFDS Seaways (tel. 0871/522-0955 in Britain, or 0255/546-688 in Holland; www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has daily car-ferry service between Newcastle in northeast England and IJmuiden on the North Sea coast, 24km (15 miles) west of Amsterdam. The overnight travel time is 15 hours. From IJmuiden, you can go by special bus to Amsterdam Centraal Station.

P&O Ferries (tel. 0871/664-5645 in Britain, or 020/200-8333 in Holland; www.poferries.com) has daily car-ferry service between Hull in northeast England and Rotterdam (into Europoort's harbor). The overnight trip time is 10 hours. Ferry company buses shuttle between the Rotterdam Europoort terminal and Rotterdam Centraal Station, from where there are frequent trains to Amsterdam.

Stena Line (tel. 0870/570-7070 in Britain, or 0900/8123 in Holland; www.stenaline.co.uk) has twice-daily car-ferry service between Harwich in southeast England and Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland) near Rotterdam. The travel time during the day is 6 hours, 15 minutes, and 7 hours overnight. Frequent trains depart from Hoek van Holland to Amsterdam.

By Cruise Ship

Annually, Amsterdam welcomes some 100 ocean cruise liners from around the world and 700 river cruise boats from Europe's inland waterways. You'll likely arrive at the cruise-liner dock, Passenger Terminal Amsterdam, Piet Heinkade 27 (tel. 020/509-1000; www.ptamsterdam.com; tram: 25 or 26), on the IJ waterway just east of Centraal Station and within easy walking distance of the center city.

By Train

Rail service to Amsterdam from elsewhere in Europe is frequent and fast. International trains arrive at Centraal Station from Brussels, Paris, Berlin, Cologne, and some cities in Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and Eastern Europe.

Nederlandse Spoorwegen (Netherlands Railways; tel. 0900/9292; www.ns.nl) trains arrive in Amsterdam from towns and cities around Holland. Service is frequent and trains are modern, clean, and punctual.

Schedule and fare information about travel by train and other public transportation (openbaar vervoer) in the Netherlands is available by calling tel. 0900/9292, or visiting www.9292ov.nl. For international trains, call tel. 0900/9296.

Britain is connected to mainland Europe via the Channel Tunnel (nicknamed "The Chunnel"). On Eurostar's (www.eurostar.com) high-speed train (top speed 300kmph/186 mph), travel time between London Waterloo Station and Brussels Midi Station (the closest connecting point for Amsterdam) is around 2 hours. For Eurostar reservations, call tel. 08705/186-186 in Britain.

The burgundy-colored Thalys (www.thalys.com) high-speed train, with a top speed of 300kmph (186 mph), connects Paris, Brussels, and Cologne to Amsterdam. Travel time from Paris to Amsterdam is 4 hours, 10 minutes; from Brussels, it's 2 hours, 45 minutes. For Thalys information and reservations in France, call tel. 03635; in Belgium, tel. 020/528-2828; in Germany, tel. 11861; and in Holland, tel. 0900/9296. Tickets are also available from main railway stations and travel agents.

Note: An improved Thalys service operating on a new high-speed rail line in Belgium and Holland is expected to be operational sometime in 2010, and will reduce the travel time from Brussels by an hour.

Arriving by Train at Amsterdam Centraal Station -- If you arrive by train, you'll likely find yourself deposited at Amsterdam's Centraal Station, built in the 1880s on an artificial island in the IJ channel. The building, an ornate neo-Renaissance architectural wonder, is the bustling hub of the city's concentric rings of canals and connecting main streets, and the originating point for most of the city's trams, Metro trains, and buses.

A VVV Amsterdam tourist information office is inside the station's Platform 2; a similar office is right in front of the station on Stationsplein. Both have hotel reservation desks. Other facilities include a GWK Travelex currency-exchange office, ATMs, train info center, baggage office, luggage lockers, restaurants and snack bars, newsstands, and small specialty stores. The station is a departure point for Metro trains, trams (streetcars), buses, taxis, passenger ferries, water taxis, canal-boat cruises, the Museum Quarter Line, and the Canal Bus. At the station's rear, there are docks for the ferryboats that shuttle passengers around the city's fast-developing waterfront.

Outside, on Stationsplein, there might be a barrel organ grinding away. The Smits Coffee House NZH (tel. 020/623-3777) has a pleasant waterside terrace overlooking the inner harbor; watch as canal boats glide by.

An array of tram stops are on either side of the main station exit -- virtually all of Amsterdam's hotels are within a 15-minute tram ride from Centraal Station. The Metro station is downstairs, just outside the main exit. City bus stops are to the left of the main exit, and taxi stands are to the right. At the GVB Tickets & Info office on Stationsplein, you can buy cards for trams, Metros, and buses.

Note: The station will be, for some years to come, a confusing construction site. Under development right now is a new Metro station, to be the hub of the Noord-Zuid (North-South) line. It's due to enter service in 2015. At the same time, construction is underway on a new main entrance and all-around improved passenger facilities. On top of all that, the waterfront zone at the rear is being completely revamped.

Centraal Station is also a pickpocket convention that's in full swing at all times. Messages broadcast in multiple languages warn people to be on guard, but the artful dodgers still seem to do good business. Avoid becoming a victim by keeping money and valuables under wraps, especially amid crowds. You'll likely also encounter a "heroin whore" or two, a platoon of panhandlers, and more than a whiff of pot smoke.

By Bus

International buses (sometimes known in Europe as "coaches"), especially Eurolines' (www.eurolines.com), arrive at the bus terminal outside Amstel rail station (Metro: Amstel) in south Amsterdam. Eurolines operates bus service between London Victoria Bus Station and Amstel Station, with up to five daily departures in summer. Travel time is just over 12 hours. For reservations, contact Eurolines (tel. 08717/818-181 in Britain, or 020/560-8788 in Holland). From Amstel bus station, go by train and Metro to Centraal Station, and by tram no. 12 to the Museumplein area, and then to connecting points for trams to the Center. For the Leidseplein area, take the Metro toward Centraal Station, get out at Weesperplein, and go aboveground to take tram lines 7 or 10.

By Car

To drive in Holland, drivers need only produce a valid driver's license from their home country. The Netherlands is crisscrossed by a network of major international highways. European expressways E19, E35, E231, and E22 converge on Amsterdam from France and Belgium to the south and from Germany to the north and east. These roads also have Dutch designations; as you approach Amsterdam they become, respectively: A4, A2, A1, and A7. The city's ring road (beltway) is A10. Traffic is invariably heavy -- but distances between destinations are relatively short, road conditions are generally excellent, service stations are plentiful, and highways are plainly signposted.

To drive from Britain to Amsterdam, use the efficient Le Shuttle (www.eurotunnel.com) automobile transporter through the Channel Tunnel from Folkestone to Calais (a 35-min. trip), and drive up from there through Belgium and Holland. Le Shuttle has departures every 15 minutes at peak times, every 30 minutes at times of average demand, and hourly at night. For information and reservations, call tel. 08705/35-35-35 in Britain, tel. 0810/63-03-04 in France, or tel. 0900/504-0540 in Holland. Reserving in advance makes sense at the busiest times, but the system is so fast, frequent, and simple that you may prefer to retain travel flexibility by just showing up, buying your ticket, waiting in line for a short while, and then driving aboard.

The best way to experience most European cities is to drive to the city, park your car, and never touch it again until you leave. In Amsterdam, it's smart not to even bring a car.