Green Amsterdam

Amsterdam is not a notably green city, particularly in the Old Center, where the canal water is the most obvious and visible encroachment of the natural world. Still, the city has plenty of parks.

Vondelpark

The famous park is named after Amsterdam poet and playwright Joost van den Vondel (1587-1689), who's honored with a sculpture in the park. This mosaic of lakes, meadows, and woodland contains 120 tree varieties that include catalpa, chestnut, cypress, oak, and poplar. Vondelpark lies generally southwest of Leidseplein, and has entrances dotted all around; the busiest is on Stadhouderskade, adjacent to Leidseplein, where a sculpture of the Maid of Amsterdam, a symbol of the city, sits over the gate.

Beware the tasty-looking "gateau" they sell here, or you may find yourself floating above the trees: Drug-laced space-cake is an acquired taste and not everyone is ready to acquire it. Some days, there's so much pot smoke on the air that the trees likely are quite a bit higher than they seem. Otherwise, Vondelpark is a fairly standard park, the site of skateboarding, Frisbee-flipping, in-line skating, model-boat sailing, soccer, softball, and basketball games, smooching in the undergrowth, parties, picnics, and arts-and-crafts markets. Topless sunbathing seems to have gone out of fashion, however. Best of all, it's free, or as the Dutch say, gratis. Also free are the many concerts, theater and dance performances, and all kinds of other events, including plenty for children, at the Vondelpark Openluchttheater (Open-Air Theater). These run from June to mid-August.

You can rent in-line skates from Rent A Skate, Amstelveenseweg entrance (tel. 020/664-5091). Including protective gear, it's 5€ ($6.25) an hour, or 15€ ($19) for a full day (11am-11pm; but closes if weather's bad), for both adults and children. Bring ID and leave 20€ ($25) as a refundable guarantee.

Should toting along a picnic bag not be your thing, quiet hunger at the casual and superb Café Vertigo, on the edge of the park. Or, visit the even more casual Het Blauwe Theehuis, Vondelpark 5 (tel. 020/662-0254), at the park's center. This functionalist-style circular cafe on two levels, with a park-level terrace and an upstairs balcony terrace, is good at any time of day and a fine place for indulging in a continental breakfast of coffee and croissant. At night, there's dancing and live music.

Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Wood)

To enjoy fresh air and wide expanses of scenery, head out to this giant park in the southern suburb of Amstelveen. This is nature on the city's doorstep, and covers some 10 sq. km (4 sq. miles). The park was laid out during the Depression years as a public works project. By now, the woodlands, grasslands, moors, and marshes, along with their birds, insects, and small animals (and a herd of Highland cattle to keep the moors in shape), are firmly established. The best way to get to the Amsterdamse Bos from the center city is to take bus 170 or 172 from outside Centraal Station.

Beyond the course's western end is a big pond, the Grote Vijver, where you can rent boats, and the Openluchttheater (Open-Air Theater), which often presents performances on summer evenings.

At the entrance on Amstelveenseweg, stop by the Bezoekerscentrum (Visitor Center), Bosbaanweg 5 (tel. 020/545-6100; www.amsterdamsebos.nl), where you can trace the park's history, learn about its wildlife, and pick up a park map. The center is open daily (except Dec 25 and 26) from noon to 5pm, and admission is free. Across the way is a bicycle rental shop (tel. 020/644-5473), with fees starting at 8€ ($10) per day.

Then follow the path to a long stretch of water called the Bosbaan, a 2km (1 1/4-mile) competition-rowing course. Overlooking the finishing line, and with a great terrace beside the water, is the fine Grand-Café De Bosbaan (tel. 020/404-4869; www.debosbaan.nl). Beyond the course's western end is Boerderij Meerzicht (tel. 020/679-2744), a restaurant that sells great Dutch pancakes. It also has peacocks wandering around freely and a playground for kids.

In 2000, the Kersenbloesempark (Cherry Blossom Park) opened in the Amsterdamse Bos. The Japan Women's Club donated its 400 cherry trees to mark 400 years of cultural ties between the Netherlands and Japan.

The Amsterdamse Bos is open 24 hours; admission is free.

More Parks

After Vondelpark, the city's other parks are fairly tame, but the following still make pleasant escapes on a warm summer day: Sarphati Park, 2 blocks behind the Albert Cuyp Markt in South Amsterdam; Beatrix Park, adjacent to the RAI Convention and Exhibition Center; Rembrandt Park and Erasmus Park in the west city; Martin Luther King Park, beside the Amstel River; Oosterpark; and East Amsterdam's Flevopark, which has two swimming pools.