Restaurant Orientation

Dining Hours -- Most restaurants are open from noon to 2:30pm for lunch, and from 6 or 7 to 10 or 11pm. Many kitchens are closed by 10pm. It's wise not to make reservations for 8pm or after, if you want to enjoy a relaxed, unhurried meal. Even if a restaurant is open until 11pm or midnight, you won't get served unless you arrive well before then -- how much before varies with the restaurant, and maybe with the mood of the staff, but it should be at least 30 minutes in moderate and budget places, and at least an hour in more upscale venues. Recently, restaurants have been staying open later.

Reservations -- On weekends, unless you eat especially early or late, reservations are recommended at top restaurants and at those on the high end of the moderate price range. Call ahead to check; restaurants are often small and may be crowded with neighborhood devotees. Note that restaurants with outside terraces are always in big demand on pleasant summer evenings and fill up fast; make a reservation, if the restaurant will let you -- if not, get there early or forget it.

Information -- Good eating-out info is available online at www.specialbite.com, www.iens.nl, www.diningcity.nl, and www.dinnersite.nl.

Tipping -- A 15% service charge and taxes (BTW) are included in all prices.

Budget Dining -- Eating cheaply in Amsterdam is not an impossible dream. And, happily, in some cases you can even eat cheaply in style, with candles on the table, flowers in the window, and music in the air. And though there's no such thing as a free lunch, there might be a dagschotel (plate of the day) and a dagmenu (menu of the day), for usually decent food at a bargain rate. The practical Dutch don't like to spend unnecessary euros, so almost every neighborhood has its modestly priced restaurant and new budget places are popping up all over town. Another way to combat high dinner tabs is to take advantage of the tourist menu that many restaurants offer.

Lunch & Snack Costs -- Lunch doesn't have to be an elaborate affair (save that for evening). Typical Dutch lunches are light, quick, and cheap. A quick midday meal can cost 6€ to 12€ ($7.50-$15). An afternoon pit stop for a pastry and coffee will set you back 4€ to 7€ ($5-$8.75).

Wine -- Estate-bottled imported wines are expensive in Holland, and even a bottle of modest French wine can add 12€ to 20€ ($15-$25) to a dinner tab. House wine, on the other hand -- which may be a carefully selected French estate-bottled wine -- will be a more economical choice in restaurants of any price level. Wine by the glass costs anywhere from 3€ to 10€ ($3.75-$13).

Smoking -- Smokers are everywhere -- you'll likely encounter chain-smokers rolling their own from the foul-smelling loose tobacco the Dutch call shag. In restaurants, don't be surprised to see (and smell!) lit-up cigars and pipes. Nonsmoking areas in restaurants and cafes are rare -- so consider yourself warned, and if you're sensitive to secondhand smoke, try to sit outside in fine weather.

All in Good Taste -- As the waitperson removes your plate, he or she may ask: Heeft het gesmaakt? (Did it taste good?). If it did, the appropriate answer is: Ja, lekker (Yes, tasty), or heel lekker (very tasty). And if you had an unparalleled experience of gustatory pleasure, you can roll your eyes, pat your stomach contentedly, and purr: Mmmm, ja, heerlijk (wonderful). If you didn't enjoy your experience, however, you won't realistically be able to explain it in Dutch; anything said would open up a discussion. Still, if you're adamant about expressing your displeasure, you could say: Nee, het heeft niet gesmaakt. (No, it didn't taste good.)