Hotels

A decent hotel room under $150 a night is almost unknown in Anchorage in midsummer. To visit economically, choose a B&B or small inn. I've searched for such places, choosing those with character and reasonable prices. There are hundreds more, many of them just as good.

Dozens of B&Bs are listed on a website maintained by the cooperative Anchorage Alaska Bed and Breakfast Association (www.anchorage-bnb.com). You can search by area of town or preferred amenities, or browse alphabetically. Links go directly to the B&Bs' own sites. Many have online availability calendars. Without a computer, call the association's hot line (tel. 888/584-5147 or 907/272-5909), which is answered by hosts at member properties to offer referrals to places that meet callers' requirements.

Downtown

Very Expensive -- Besides the Hotel Captain Cook, three other high-rise hotels downtown offer a similar level of service without as much character or quite as many amenities. Hilton Anchorage, 500 W. 3rd Ave. (tel. 800/HILTONS or 907/272-7411; www.hilton.com), is a large conference hotel right at the center of downtown activities. The Sheraton Anchorage, 401 E. 6th Ave. (tel. 800/478-8700 or 907/276-8700; www.sheratonanchoragehotel.com), is comparable to the Hilton, but in a slightly less attractive area a few blocks away. The newer Anchorage Downtown Marriott, 820 W. 7th Ave. (tel. 800/228-9290 or 907/279-8000; www.marriotthotels.com), has a nice pool and fabulous views from rooms with wall-size picture windows.

Expensive -- Here are a few chain-hotel options downtown for those who prefer national brands: Days Inn, 321 E. 5th Ave. (tel. 800/DAYS INN or 907/276-7226; www.daysinnalaska.com), which has a courtesy van to the airport and rail depot; Clarion Suites, 325 W. 8th Avenue (tel. 877/424-6423 or 907/274-1000; www.clarionsuites.com), an all-suite building across from the Federal Building, with a small pool; and Hawthorn Suites, 1110 W. 8th Ave. (tel. 800/527-1133 or 907/222-5005; www.hawthorn.com), with similar facilities as the Clarion Suites, plus a Benihana Restaurant on-site.

Inexpensive -- Hotel rooms reliably meeting most readers' standards are not available downtown for a price I can bring myself to call "inexpensive," but there are several small inns or B&Bs where you can save money and may also have a warmer, more rewarding visit. Besides those described in full, the Downtown Guest House, 1238 G St. (tel. 907/279-2359; www.downtownguesthouse.com), is a single two-bedroom apartment, beautifully decorated and with many amenities, for only $150 double in the summer. The owner is one of Alaska's most noted photographers.

Hostels -- Choose from two hostels downtown and another nearer the airport. Anchorage International Hostel-Downtown, 700 H St. (tel. 907/276-3635; www.anchoragehostel.org), enjoys a prime spot next to the Marriott. It has an urban feel. A coin-op laundry, kitchen, and storage are available, and they have Wi-Fi in some areas. Dorm rooms are small, with just a few bunks each, totaling 95 beds. A bunk is $25, a private room $65. Dorms close between 10am and 5pm daily. The curfew is 1am and checkout is 10am.

I'd stay at a much homier hostel that lies in a slightly seedy area just east of the downtown core, although still walkable, Alaska Backpackers Inn, 327 Eagle St. (tel. 907/277-2770; www.alaskabackpackers.com), which opened in 2007. The atmosphere is friendly and vibrant in rooms with murals painted on the floors and walls and large, well-equipped gathering places, bathrooms, and kitchen. Bikes are for rent, and the hostel offers Internet access and a coin-op laundry. There is no curfew. Smoking and alcohol are not allowed. A total of 94 beds and bunks fill 37 guest rooms, renting for $22 a bunk or $60 for a private room for two.

Beyond Downtown

These lodging choices are spread across Anchorage, with its long, wide commercial strips. Like most residents, you need a car to stay here. On the other hand, by leaving downtown, you can sometimes find larger, newer rooms for less cost, and you avoid downtown parking problems.

A Hostel -- Spenard Hostel International, 2845 W. 42nd Ave. (tel. 907/248-5036; www.alaskahostel.org), is a friendly place near the airport, with free phones, inexpensive bike rental, storage, Internet access, and laundry machines. It feels more like communal housing than an impersonal hostel. There are three lounges for different activities and three kitchens. The owner has installed heat exchangers in the bedrooms to keep the air fresh. You can come and go 24 hours a day. The office is open daily from 9am to 1pm and from 7 to 11pm in summer, 7 to 11pm winter. Beds are $21 by cash or check, a dollar more if you use a credit card (Visa, MasterCard, Amex, or Discover).

Rooms Near the Airport

Good, inexpensive standard motel rooms near the airport are rare to the vanishing point, although upscale rooms and B&Bs are readily available. The prize winner in my search for reasonably priced hotel rooms with consistently high quality is the Lakeshore Motor Inn (tel. 800/770-3000 or 907/248-3485; www.lakeshoremotorinn.com). The rate of $159 a night double, at peak season, includes a continental breakfast, Wi-Fi, and use of a 24-hour courtesy van. The hospitality is warm and the rooms are inviting, despite the older concrete building. Two good chain hotels stand near the airport, with higher rates: Courtyard by Marriott (tel. 800/314-0782 or 907/245-0322; www.marriott.com/ANCCY), with many amenities and a pool, at $249 to $249 double in summer; and the Holiday Inn Express (tel. 800/HOLIDAY or 907/248-8848; www.hiexpress.com), at $274 double in the summer. A large full-service hotel stands lakeside near the airport, Millennium Alaskan Hotel Anchorage (tel. 800/544-0553 or 907/243-2300; www.millenniumhotels.com/anchorage). It might be a huge fishing and hunting lodge judging by the large lobby, with its warm colors and fly rods and animal mounts on display, but the rooms, on long corridors in a wooden building, are loaded with comfort and amenities. The hotel has two restaurants and offers many services. High season rates are $239 to $350 double. I also recommend Lake Hood Inn, Elderberry Bed & Breakfast, and Spenard Hostel International, all of which are handy to the airport.

Camping

Anchorage is a big city, and to find natural camping, I recommend going beyond the urban area. The two closest state park campgrounds to Anchorage are at Bird Creek, to the south of town, and Eagle River, just to the north. The Bird Creek Campground is one of my favorites. It sits next to Turnagain Arm and the salmon-filled creek. A paved pathway passes by under the large spruce trees. There are 28 sites and the fee is $15 per night. From Anchorage, drive 25 miles south on the Seward Highway to milepost 101. The 57-site Eagle River Campground sits in a thickly wooded riverside spot, and it's well developed, with paved roads and large sites with lots of privacy. It costs $15 a night and sites can be reserved in advance. Book up to a year ahead at tel. 800/952-8624 or 907/694-7982 (www.lifetimeadventures.net). The hosts also book rafting on the Eagle River. Take the Glenn Highway 12 miles north from Anchorage and exit at Hiland Road.

If you seek a place to hook up your RV in town, Anchorage Ship Creek RV Park (tel. 800/323-5757; www.bestofalaskatravel.com) is nearest to downtown. The site is in an industrial area a short drive, but a little too far to walk to the attractions. Water, sewer, and power sites are $45 to $49 in the summer.