Introduction to Andros

Bimini, the Berry Islands, and Andros are each unique. Bimini is famous and overrun with tourists, particularly in summer, but visitors will have the Berry Islands practically to themselves. These two island chains to the north and west of Nassau could be called the "westerly islands" because they, along with Grand Bahama, lie at the northwestern fringe of The Bahamas. They are the closest islands to the Florida coastline.

In contrast, much larger Andros is located southwest of Nassau. In many ways, Andros is the most fascinating part of The Bahamas. The story goes that mysterious creatures once inhabited this series of islands laced with creeks and dense forests.

Andros, the largest island in the nation, is mainly uninhabited. If The Bahamas still has an unexplored wilderness, this is it. The island's forest and mangrove swamps are home to a wide variety of birds and animals, including the nonpoisonous Bahamian boa constrictor and the 2m-long (6 1/2-ft.) iguana. The Bahamian national bird, the West Indian flamingo, can also be spotted during migration in late spring and summer. The waters off Andros are home to a wondrous barrier reef, the third largest in the world and a diver's dream. The reef plunges 167km (104 miles) to a narrow drop-off known as the Tongue of the Ocean. Andros's mysterious blue holes, another diver's delight, are formed when subterranean caves fill with seawater, causing the ceiling to collapse and expose clear, deep pools. Few come here anymore looking for Sir Henry Morgan's pirate treasure, said to be buried in one of the caves off Morgan's Bluff on the north tip of the island. But Andros does attract anglers, mostly because it is known for its world-class fishing for marlin and the bluefin tuna, and its bonefishing is perhaps the best in the world.

The largest island in The Bahamas, Andros is an excellent budget destination. One of the biggest unexplored tracts of land in the Western Hemisphere, it's still quite mysterious. Mostly flat, its 5,957 sq. km (2,323 sq. miles) are riddled with lakes and creeks, and most of the local residents -- who still indulge in fire dances and go on wild boar hunts on occasion -- live along the shore.

Andros is 161km (100 miles) long and 64km (40 miles) wide. Its interior consists of a dense tropical forest, really rugged bush, and mangrove country. The marshy and relatively uninhabited west coast is called the "Mud," and the east coast is paralleled for 193km (120 miles) by the third-largest underwater barrier reef in the world. The reef drops more than 167km (104 miles) into the Tongue of the Ocean, or TOTO. On the eastern shore, this "tongue" is 229km (142 miles) long and 1,000 fathoms (2.9km/ 2 miles) deep.

Lying 274km (170 miles) southeast of Miami and 48km (30 miles) west of Nassau, Andros is actually three major land areas: North Andros, Middle Andros, and South Andros. In spite of its size, Andros is very thinly populated (its residents number only around 5,000), although the tourist population swells it a bit. The temperature range here averages from 72°F to 85°F (22°C-29°C).

You won't find the western side of Andros written about much in yachting guides because tricky shoals render it almost unapproachable by boat. The east coast, however, has kilometers of unspoiled beaches and is studded with little villages. Hotels that range from simple guest cottages to dive resorts, to fishing camps have been built here. "Creeks" (we'd call them rivers) intersect the island at its midpoint. Also called bights, they range in length from 8 to 40km (5-25 miles), and they are dotted with tiny cays and islets.

The fishing at Andros is famous, establishing records for blue marlin caught offshore. Divers and snorkelers find that the coral reefs are among the most beautiful in the world, and everyone loves the pristine beaches.

Warning: Be sure to bring along plenty of mosquito repellent.