Active Pursuits

Beaches

Superb beaches put Anguilla on the tourist map. There are dozens of them, plus another handful on the outer cays. The island's interior may be barren, but there's no denying the beauty of its shores. Miles and miles of pristine, powdery-soft sands open onto crystal-clear waters. Many of the beaches are reached via bone-jarring dirt paths that ultimately give way to sand and sea. All the beaches are open to the public, but you may have to walk through the lobby of a deluxe hotel to reach one.

The best beaches are on the west end of the island, site of the most expensive hotels. Rendezvous Bay is the island's most famous, a long curving ribbon of pale gold sand that stretches along the bay for 4km (2 1/2 miles). It's calmer, warmer, and shallower than Shoal Bay, which is on the Atlantic side. With an alfresco beach bar, it attracts all kinds, from families to romantic couples.

Our favorite is 3km (2-mile) Shoal Bay in the northeast, one of the best beaches in the Caribbean. With silver-white, powder-soft sands, it also has some of Anguilla's best coral gardens, home to hundreds of tiny iridescent fish, making it great for snorkeling. Umbrellas, beach chairs, and other equipment are available here so you can enjoy the backdrop of coconut palms and sea-grape trees. This beach is often called Shoal Bay East to distinguish it from Shoal Bay West . The waters are usually luminous, transparent, and brilliantly blue. At noon the sands are blindingly white, but at sunrise and sunset they turn a pink to rival any beach in Bermuda. You'll hear music from the terraces of the Hardbroke Cafe and Uncle Ernie's. The Upper Shoal Bar serves first-rate tropical drinks, and souvenir shops hawk T-shirts and suntan lotion on the beach. For a little more tranquility, you can also take the trail walk from Old Ta to little-known Katouche Beach, which offers perfect snorkeling and is also a prime site for a beach picnic under shade trees.

Shoal Bay West, next to Maundays Bay, has pristine white sands opening onto the southwest coast. You'll find deluxe accommodations, including Covecastles, on these shores.

Adjoining Shoal Bay West, and site of Cap Juluca, is 1.5km-long (1-mile), white-sand Maundays Bay Beach, justifiably one of the island's most popular shorelines, with good snorkeling and swimming. Though the waters are luminescent and usually calm, sometimes the wind blows enough to attract windsurfers and sailboats. On a clear day you can see St. Martin across the way.

Sandy Isle, on the northwest coast, is a tiny islet with a few palms surrounded by a coral reef. It lies offshore from Road Bay. Once here, you'll find a beach bar and restaurant, and a place to rent snorkeling gear and buy underwater cameras. During the day a small ferry heads here every hour from Sandy Ground.

The northwest coast has a number of other beaches worth seeking out, notably Barnes Bay Beach, filled with powdery white sand and opening onto clear blue waters. You can relax in the shade of the chalky hillside or a beach umbrella or join the windsurfers and snorkelers. It's usually less crowded after lunch.

Almost never crowded, Little Bay Beach is one of the most dramatic in Anguilla, set against steep cliffs. Here the sands are grayish, but snorkelers and scuba divers don't seem to mind. The beach also attracts bird-watchers and picnickers. Local weddings are sometimes performed here.

Road Bay Beach, also on the northwest coast, is known for spectacular sunsets and clear blue waters, often filled with yachts coming from St. Martin. A watersports center here on the beach will set you up with gear. You can also watch lobstermen set out in their boats.

The beaches along the northeast coast are the stuff of fantasies -- especially if you've got a four-wheel-drive. Calm and tranquil, the incredibly blue waters of Island Harbour Beach attract both locals and the odd visitor or two. For centuries Anguillians have set out from these shores to haul in Anguillian lobster. There are a few beach bars and alfresco dining rooms here, so you can make a day of it -- or take a 3-minute boat ride over to Scilly Cay.

Chances are you'll have Captain's Bay's Beach all to yourself. Near Junk's Hole, it's better for enjoying the sun and sand than it is for swimming. The undertow is dangerous, though the setting is dramatic and appealing.

Cruises & Boating

A great way to have fun on Anguilla is to cruise to a secluded beach on an offshore cay for a picnic and some snorkeling, whether on your own or with a group. Several outfitters on the island rent vessels, including Anguillian Divers(tel. 264/497-4750; www.anguilliandivers.com), offering a 10m (31-ft.) motorboat.

Fishing

Your hotel can arrange for you to cast your line with a local guide, but you should bring your own tackle. Agree on the cost before setting out, however, to avoid the "misunderstandings" that are commonly reported.

Malliouhana, Meads Bay (tel. 264/497-6111), has a 12m (40-ft.) fishing cruiser, Dakota, which holds up to 12 passengers. You can charter it for fishing parties for US$400 (£208) for up to 4 hours. All fishing gear and a snack basket are included. Garfield Richardson (tel. 264/497-2956) rents his Gotcha for fishing excursions at the rate of US$500 (£260) for 4 hours or US$900 (£468) for an 8-hour day. For this rate, four fishermen are taken out, the fee including snacks and equipment.

Golf

Anguilla's first golf course, created by golf legend Greg Norman, opened in 2006 as part of the 111-hectare (274 acre) St. Regis Resort, which is not scheduled for completion until the winter of 2008. The Temenos Golf Club, Anguilla Merrywing West End (tel. 264/222-8200), is an 18-hole, par-72, 7,100-yard course, featuring 14 oceanview holes. Greens fees are US$415 (£216) per person, including cart, caddies, and locker room access, one of the highest such fees in the Caribbean. Club rental costs an additional US$65 (£34). Bob and Melinda Blanchard, owners of the famous Blanchard's Restaurant , have opened Zurra's restaurant on the golf course grounds next to the club house.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Most of the coastline of Anguilla is fringed by coral reefs, and the island's waters are rich in marine life, with sunken coral gardens, brilliantly colored fish, caves, and stingrays offshore. Conditions for scuba diving and snorkeling on the island are ideal. In addition, the government of Anguilla has artificially enlarged the existing reef system, a first for the Caribbean. Battered and outmoded ships, deliberately sunk in carefully designated places, act as nurseries for fish and lobster populations and provide new dive sites. At Stoney Bay Marine Park off the northeast coast, you can explore the ruins of a Spanish ship that sank in the 1700s.

Anguillian Divers, Meads Bay (tel. 264/497-4750), is a one-stop dive shop that answers most diving needs. PADI instructors are on hand, with a two-tank dive costing US$70 (£36), plus another US$10 (£5.20) for equipment. Another good choice is Shoal Bay Scuba & Water Sports (tel. 264/497-4371), with one of the best-designed dive boats in the area. (It was custom built.) A two-tank dive costs US$80 (£42), plus US$10 (£5.20) for equipment.

It's easy to find places to rent snorkeling gear on the island's most popular beaches, if your hotel doesn't provide it. The snorkeling's great at Shoal Bay, Maundays Bay, Barnes Bay, Little Bay, and Road Bay.

Tennis

Most of the resorts have their own tennis courts. Malliouhana, Meads Bay (tel. 264/497-6111), has a pro shop and four championship Laykold tennis courts. All courts are lit for night games.