There are so many great dining options in Ankara, from humble kebap shop, to pleasantly touristy regional (fez and all), to trendy to executive gourmet. If you're only in Ankara overnight, I recommend eating dinner in one of the restaurants converted from an old Ottoman house in or around the citadel. Alternatively, seek out an inexpensive-to-midrange kebap joint around Kizilay or step out in style at one of the see-and-be-seen Ankara branches of Istanbul establishments along Arjantin Caddesi in Kavaklidere or in Çankaya. Don't forget to grab a midmorning bagel-like snack of simit, a crispier version than what you'd find in Istanbul, smothered with soft cheese (found at stands everywhere in the mornings). While Turkish food is very vegetarian friendly, non-meat eaters will appreciate the options at Café des Cafes on Tunali Hilmi 83/A (tel. 0312/428-0176) or Kuki House, Arjantin Cad. 18 (tel. 0312/427-1400).

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