Side Trips

Kejimkujik National Park

About 45km (28 miles) southeast of Annapolis Royal is a popular national park that's a world apart from coastal Nova Scotia. Kejimkujik National Park, founded in 1968, is located in the heart of south-central Nova Scotia, and it is to lakes and bogs what the South Coast is to fishing villages and fog. Bear and moose are the full-time residents here; park visitors are the transients. The park, which was largely scooped and shaped during the last glacial epoch, is about 20% water, which makes it especially popular with canoeists. A few trails also weave through the park, but hiking is limited; the longest hike in the park can be done in 2 hours. Bird-watchers are also drawn to the park in search of the 205 species that have been seen both here and at the Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct, a 22-sq.-km (8 1/2-sq.-mile) coastal holding west of Liverpool. Among the more commonly seen species are pileated woodpeckers and loons, and at night you can listen for the raspy call of the barred owl.

Getting There -- Kejimkujik National Park is approximately midway on Kejimkujik Scenic Drive (Rte. 8), which extends 115km (71 miles) between Annapolis Royal and Liverpool. The village of Maitland Bridge (pop. 130) is near the park's entrance. Plan on about a 2-hour drive from Halifax.

Visitor Information -- The park's visitor center (tel. 902/682-2772) is open daily and features slide programs and exhibits about the park's natural history.

Fees -- The park opens daily at 8am year-round, though the visitor center cuts its hours substantially, closing at 4pm instead of 8pm, between Labor Day and mid-June. Fees are C$5.45 (US$4.90/£2.75) for adults, C$4.70 (US$4.25/£2.35) for seniors, C$2.70 (US$2.45/£1.35) for children ages 6 to 16, and C$14 (US$12/£6.80) for families. Seasonal passes can cut the cost of a longer stay; they cost C$27 (US$24/£14) adults, C$24 (US$22/£12) seniors, C$14 (US$13/£7) children ages 6 to 16, and C$68 (US$61/£34) for families.

Exploring the Park

The park's 381 sq. km (147 sq. miles) of forest, lakes, and bogs are peaceful and remote. Part of what makes the terrain so appealing is the lack of access by car. One short forked park road from Route 8 gets you partway into the park. Then you need to continue by foot or canoe. A stop at the visitor center is worthwhile, both for the exhibits on the region's natural history and for a preliminary walk on one of the three short trails. The Beech Grove loop (2km/1.2 miles) takes you around a glacial hill called a drumlin. The park has a taped walking tour available for use; ask at the information center.

Canoeing is the optimal means of traversing the park. Bring your own, or rent a canoe at Jake's Landing (3km/2 miles along the park access road) for C$7.50 (US$6.75/£3.75) per hour or C$28 (US$25/£14) per day. Similar rates apply to rentals of bikes, paddleboats, kayaks, and rowboats. Canoeists can cobble together wilderness excursions from one lake to the other, some involving slight portaging. Multiday trips are easily arranged to backcountry campsites and are the best way to get to know the park. Canoe route maps are provided at the visitor center. Rangers also lead short, guided canoe trips for novices.

The park also has 15 walking trails, ranging from short easy strolls to, well, longer easy strolls. (There's no elevation gain to speak of.) The 6km (3.7-mile) Hemlocks and Hardwoods Trail loops through stately groves of 300-year-old hemlocks; the 3km (1.9-mile) Merrymakedge Beach Trail skirts a lakeshore to end at a beach. A free map that describes the trails is available at the visitor center.

Mountain bikers can explore the old Fire Tower Road, a round-trip of about 19km (12 miles). The road becomes increasingly rugged and ends at a fire tower near an old-growth forest of birch and maple.

Camping

Backcountry camping is the park's chief draw. The 44 backcountry sites are so much in demand that they actually cost more than the drive-in campsites. Overnighting on a distant lakeshore is the best way to get to know the park; even if you're planning to car camp, I'd argue that it's worth the extra hassle and expense of renting a canoe and paddling off for a night just for the experience.

The canoe-in and hike-in sites are assigned individually, which means you needn't worry about noisy neighbors playing loud music on their car stereo. Backcountry rangers keep the sites in top shape, and each is stocked with firewood for the night (the wood is included in the campsite fee). Most sites can handle a maximum of six campers. Naturally, there's high demand for the best sites; you're better off here midweek, when fewer weekenders are down from Halifax. You can also reserve backcountry sites (C$23/US$21/£12 per site) up to 60 days in advance for an additional fee; call the visitor center (tel. 902/682-2772).

The park's drive-in campground at Jeremy's Bay offers about 360 sites, a few quite close to the water's edge. Campground rates are C$18 to C$25 (US$16-US$23/£9-£13) per night. (During the shoulder seasons in spring and fall, you get a 6th night free after 5 nights; winter camping costs less.) Note that during the off season, November to April, there are no toilets or showers -- just pits. Starting early each April reservations at the drive-in campground may be made for an additional fee by calling tel. 877/RESERVE or online at www.pccamping.ca.