Side Trips

The "Monster" at Olympos

One of the highlights of a visit to the Antalya coast is the Chimaera, near the ancient city of Olympos and modern-day beachfront Çirali. It's a good idea to combine a visit to both the natural and archaeological sites, keeping in mind that the undisturbed -- even unkempt -- shoreline of Çirali is one of the best-kept natural secrets of the Mediterranean coast and a major nesting site for sea turtles.

The Chimaera, or mythical, fire-breathing monster with the head of a lion, the torso of a goat, and the rear of a snake that allegedly roams the hills is actually a series of eternal flames flickering along the rocky slopes above the ancient city of Olympos, which would account for the Lycians' worship of the fire god Hephaestos (Vulcan). But never fear: According to legend, the Chimaera was slain by Bellerophon on his winged horse, Pegasus, from his base over at Tlos. The fires are caused by the combustion of a predominantly methane gas mixture seeping out of the earth and igniting at the point of contact between serpentine and limestone rocks; though they can be extinguished briefly by covering them, they always reignite. The path up the hill to the site is at the far end of the modern village of Çirali, about a 6- to 7km (3 3/4- to 4 1/3-mile) hike from the beach end of the ancient city of Olympos. It's about a 20-minute hike up to the Chimaera, where a fresh pot of tea perks atop one of the flames. Although the flames are no less impressive by daylight, it's best to come at dusk, when the flames are most visible -- just don't forget a flashlight.

The ancient site of Olympos hugs both sides of the Ulupinar Stream near the seashore, and dates to Hellenistic times. It's a bit overgrown and spread out on both sides of the stream, so come with a good map of the site. From 100 B.C., Olympos enjoyed the status as one of the six primary members of the Lycian League and was later absorbed as a Roman province. During this period, the area gained renown as a place of worship for the cult of Hephaestos, or Vulcan, the God of Fire.

Admission to the ancient city ruins during daylight hours (when the booth is manned) is 2YTL ($1.75/80p). There are two entrances to the site: To combine a visit to Olympos with a climb up to the Chimaera, exit the Antalya highway at the exit marked "Çirali 7; Yanartas 11 (Chimaera)" (Yanartas is Turkish for "burning rock"). From here, it's a 10-minute drive along a dry stream bed bursting with oleander, wild orchids, and lavender; you can either cross the bridge and continue straight for about a mile (don't be discouraged by the poor condition of the road during the final mile or so) until you arrive at the "base camp" for the well-marked path up to the Chimaera or turn off onto the rocky road before the bridge into Çirali for access to the beach. (Walk to the right to find the beach entrance to the site of Olympos.) The other main entrance to Olympos can be accessed from the turnoff from the Antalya road marked "Olympos 11; Çavusköy 15." Dolmuses pass regularly along the Antalya highway, but transportation down to the beachfront via either turnoff is less reliable.

Where to Stay & Dine -- The road that loops through the village of Çirali is lined with small, family-run pensions with varying degrees of appeal. But until that fated day when Çirali becomes polished and unauthentic, the best place to stay is the Olympos Lodge, Çirali, Kemer, P.O. Box 38, Antalya (tel. 0242/825-7171; fax 0242/825-7173; www.olymposlodge.net), just over the bridge into town (take that quick right). With only 12 rooms, this small slice of paradise is like an exclusive country club; the parking lot is consistently full of shiny Mercedes, BMWs, and collectors' Rolls-Royces. The grounds are gorgeous -- a Mediterranean garden bursting with color and home to wandering chickens and peacocks abuts the beach. The rooms are rather unadorned and basic, but feature old cedar wood floorboards that reportedly repel mosquitoes. The room rate of 175€ to 200€ ($254-$290/£125-£143) for two people per night includes breakfast and dinner.

When the Olympos Lodge breaks the news that it's full, the Arcadia and Arcadia 2, Çirali (tel. 0242/825-7340; www.arcadiaholiday.com), located farther down the beach in a garden of flowers and lemon trees (Arcadia II is across the road in a lemon grove), offer a total of 10 spacious and extremely comfortable pine bungalows. All were built by Ahmet, the owner, assisted by Canadian-born Ann, a welcome font of local information in English. Together, they've created a cozy, romantic, and rustic environment stocked with all the creature comforts, plus coffee, a tea station, and a wine rack. Arcadia has delicious on-site dining on request; eat under the beachfront pines or relax on the shady platform kösk. The room rate for two people is 85€ to 110€ ($123-$160/£61-£79) and includes breakfast.

The Mountaintop Citadel of Termessos

Located on a natural plateau 1,050m (3,445 ft.) above sea level, the impregnable mountaintop city of Termessos was the only settlement not conquered by Alexander the Great. The ancient site is located about a half-hour's drive from Antalya inside the Güllük Dag Milli Parki (tel. 0242/423-7416). Alex likened it to an eagle's nest; you'll think so, too, after the steep climb up. The best approach from the plateau parking area is up the main path to the city and theater for access to the lion's share of the ruins. Rather than backtracking at the end of your visit, follow the sign toward the tombs, which follows a narrow and sometimes rocky footpath past a series of rock-cut tombs and free-standing sarcophagi, a path that ends about 20 minutes later in the parking lot. Although the path is shady most of the way up, be sure to carry enough bottled water, as there is no concession on-site, and it can get pretty hot. The visit on foot takes as little as 2 hours (if you're well hydrated and it's early) to as much as 4 to 5 hours, if you're sluggish and really into seeing every nook and cranny.

The most impressive of the ruins is the Greek theater, cut into the rock with celestial views of Antalya visible through the clouds. The ability of the city's inhabitants to withstand prolonged attacks was in no small part due to the exceptional engineering of its cisterns: five tanks fed by a duct cut into the rock. Admission to the archaeological site is 5YTL ($4.35/£2) per person, plus 7YTL ($6.10/£2.80) to drive your car into the national park (don't even think about walking from the ticket gate, a hefty 9km/5 1/2 miles downhill from the plateau parking; open daily 8am-6pm in summer and 8am-4pm in winter). If you're going by car, follow the Antalya-Burdur highway north and follow signs for the park. Tours run only about 40YTL ($35/£16) and generally include a stopover at the Duden Waterfall.