Hotels

La Fortuna is a tourist boomtown; basic hotels have been popping up here at a phenomenal rate for several years running. Right in La Fortuna you'll find a score of budget options. If you have time, it's worth walking around and checking out a couple. One of the newer options is Arenal Backpackers Resort (tel. 479-7000; www.arenalbackpackers.com), which bills itself as a 5-star hostel. It has both shared-bathroom dorm rooms, and more upscale private rooms, but even backpackers get to enjoy the large pool, free Wi-Fi, and volcano views.

There are a couple places both in town and right on the outskirts of La Fortuna that allow camping, with access to basic bathroom facilities, for around $5 to $7 (£2.50-£3.50) per person per night. If you have a car, drive a little bit out of town toward Tabacón and you'll find several more basic cabins and camping sites, some that even offer views of the volcano.

Where to Stay Near the Volcano -- One other very unique alternative is to stay aboard the Rain Goddess (tel. 866/593-3168 in the U.S., or 231-4299; www.bluwing.com). This luxurious houseboat has four staterooms, ample lounge and dining areas, and cruises around Lake Arenal.

There has been ongoing construction along the entire length of the road between La Fortuna and Tabacón over the past few years. If you have a car and some time, you might want to stop and check out any new or interesting hotels or cabins that strike your fancy along the way.

In addition to the inexpensive options in La Fortuna, if you have a car, Cabinas Los Guayabos (tel./fax 460-6644) and Cabinas Palo Verde (tel. 460-9791) are good, economical options, with views and locations that rival some of the more expensive lodgings.

Where to Stay Farther Afield

All of the hotels listed in the following three sections are at least a half-hour drive from La Fortuna and the volcano. Most, if not all, offer both night and day tours to Arenal and Tabacón, but they also hope to attract you with their own natural charms.

East of La Fortuna -- The quaint, little Hotel La Garza (tel. 475-5222; www.hotellagarza.com) is another good choice.