Attractions

Plaza De Armas

Arequipa's grand Plaza de Armas, an elegant and symmetrical square of gardens and a central fountain lined by arcaded buildings on three sides, is the focus of urban life. Dominated by the massive, 17th-century neoclassical Catedral, it is perhaps the loveliest main square in Peru, even though its profile suffered considerable damage when the great earthquake of 2001 felled one of the cathedral's two towers and whittled the other to a delicate pedestal. The cathedral, previously devastated by fire and other earthquakes, has now been fully restored to its original grandeur and you'd never know an earthquake struck. The interior is peach and white, with carved arches and a massive pipe organ. The cathedral is open Monday to Saturday from 7 to 11:30am and 5 to 7:30pm, Sunday from 7am to 1pm and 5 to 7pm.

La Compañía, just off the plaza at the corner of Alvarez Thomas and General Morán, opposite the cathedral, is a splendid 17th-century Jesuit church with an elaborate (Plateresque) facade carved of sillar stone. The magnificent portal, one of the finest in Peru, shows the end date of the church's construction, 1698, more than a century after work began on it. The interior holds a handsome carved-cedar main altar, bathed in gold leaf, and two impressive chapels: the Capilla de San Ignacio, which has a remarkable painted cupola, and the Capilla Real, or Royal Chapel. Painted murals in the sacristy feature a jungle motif in brilliant colors. Next door to the church are the stately Jesuit cloisters, of stark sillar construction, now housing upscale boutiques (enter on Calle Morán). Climb to the top for good views of the city's rooftops and distant volcanoes. The church is open Monday through Saturday from 9 to 11am and 3 to 6pm; admission is free.

On the east side of the plaza at Portal de Flores 136 is the Casona Flores del Campo (tel. 054/244-150), the oldest house in Arequipa. Begun in the late 1500s but not finished until 1779, today it is in deplorable condition, having suffered through earthquakes and a lack of funds that have left it barely standing, and is now closed to the public for safety considerations.

Photo Op

One of the best views in Arequipa is from the mirador (lookout point) on Av. del Ejército, in the tranquil suburb of Yanahuara just across Puente Grau. Next to a small plaza, a series of sillar stone arches beautifully frames the snowy peak of El Misti. Across from the mirador is the small church of Yanahuara, also built of sillar in the mid-18th century and featuring a splendid baroque carved facade and bell tower. A good way to visit the mirador is to combine it with lunch at Sol de Mayo, just a few blocks south.

House Tour: Arequipa's Colonial Mansions

Arequipa possesses one of the most attractive and harmonious colonial nuclei in Peru. Several extraordinary seigniorial houses were constructed in white sillar stone. They are predominantly flat-roofed, single-story structures, a construction style that has helped them withstand the effects of frequent earthquakes that would have toppled less solid buildings. Most of these houses have attractive, though small, interior patios and elaborately carved facades. Best equipped for visitors is the restored Casa del Moral, but several others are worth a look, especially if you have an interest in colonial architecture.

Just off the main square at San Francisco 108, Casa Ricketts (also called Casa Tristán del Pozo), a former seminary and today the offices of Banco Continental, is one of the finest colonial homes in Arequipa. Built in the 1730s, it has a beautiful portal, perhaps Arequipa's finest expression of colonial civil architecture, with delicate representations of the life of Jesus. Inside are two large, beautiful courtyards with gargoyle drainage pipes.

On the other side of the cathedral at the corner of Santa Catalina 101 at San Agustín, Casa Arróspide (also called Casa Iriberry), from the late 18th century, is one of the most distinguished sillar mansions in the city. Now the Cultural Center of San Agustín University (tel. 054/204-482), its several salas host temporary exhibits of contemporary art and photography; you'll also find an art shop and nice little cafe with a terrace and great views over the top of the cathedral.

Other colonial houses of interest include Casa Arango, a squat and eclectic 17th-century home located on Consuelo at La Merced; Casa Goyeneche, La Merced 201, today the offices of Banco de Reserva; and Casa de la Moneda, Ugarte at Villaba.

About a 15-minute cab ride outside of town, in Huasacache, is the Mansión del Fundador (tel. 054/442-460), one of the most important sillar mansions in Arequipa. It is said to have been constructed by the founder of Arequipa, Manuel de Carbajal, for his son. It features terrific vaulted ceilings and a large interior patio. The house is open daily from 9am to 5pm; admission is S/10 ($3.30/£1.70).

Parroquia de Yanahuara, a stunningly carved church with a long, single nave and vaulted ceiling, dates to 1730 and is the centerpiece of the Yanahuara main square overlooking Arequipa.

Arequipa's Colonial Churches

Arequipa has a wealth of colonial churches that are well worth a visit if you have the time. They include Iglesia de San Francisco (Zela 103), built of sillar and brick in the 16th century with an impressive all-silver altar and a beautiful vaulted ceiling; Iglesia de San Agustín (at the corner of San Agustín and Sucre), with a superbly stylized baroque facade, an excellent example of 16th- and 17th-century mestizo architecture (it was rebuilt in 1898 after earthquake damage and was restored, with an unfortunate new bell tower, again in October 2005); Iglesia de Santo Domingo (at Santo Domingo and Piérola), with handsome 1734 cloisters; and Iglesia de La Merced (La Merced 303), built in 1607 and possessing a lovely carved sillar facade and an impressive colonial library.