II Frantoio

The restaurant occupies a 17th-century olive-press building with modernized interiors, a lovely garden terrace, and a stony medieval room below the Hotel Fontebella. Staff members wisely suggest you begin with a frittatina in salsa di tartufo (a thin omelet spread with truffle pâté). The chef's specialty first course includes tortelloni frantoio (ricotta-and-spinach-filled pasta in a sauce of creamlike mascarpone cheese, sausage, and sage) and stringozzi paesani (homemade thick spaghetti with tomatoes, artichokes, and a pinch of hot pepper). Secondi run the gamut from Umbrian standards such as grigliata di carne miste (various grilled meats) to chateaubriand to fesa di tacchino ai formaggi (a huge turkey breast in cheese sauce). The wine list is a book, the wine steward the president of an Italian sommelier association.

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