La Stalla

This is about as rustic as it gets, sort of like a family picnic. It's a series of former livestock stalls made of stone walls and low-beamed ceilings thoroughly blackened by and still filled with smoke. The smoke rises tantalizingly from the open wood-fire grill and will have your mouth watering long before you secure a seat at one of the wobbly long communal tables. It's noisy, it's chaotic, it's not for the fainthearted, but it just may be one of your most memorable and authentic Umbrian meals. It will not be the most elegant. Start with the assaggini di torta al testo, small samplers of Assisian flatbread split and stuffed with prosciutto and cheese or spinach and sausage. Next up: the trittico, a scooped-out wooden platter laden with a trio of the house specialty primi, usually strangozzi, gnocchi (both in tomato sauce), and bigoli (a ricotta-and-spinach log dusted with Parmesan). For secondi, you have a wide range of choices: bistecca di vitello (grilled veal), spiedino di cacciagione (grilled game), or spiedino di maiale (grilled pork). Their salsicce (sausages) are out of this world. The conversation, generous imbibing, and general good mood can carry on for hours after official closing time.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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