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Don't let its dark streets turn you off. There is a party going on somewhere in this city if you look hard enough. There are plenty of bars dotted all around the city, especially a few blocks east of Plaza Uruguaya. You'll also find some down-at-the-heel karaoke bars around Palma and Colon. The Britannia Pub, Cerro Cora 851 (tel. 021/901-2850), is a British-style bar popular with locals and expats. In existence for over 20 years, it is still going strong, with good crowds drinking beer from huge tankards on any given night of the week (except Mon). Another favorite is Austria Pub, Austria 1783 y Vienna (tel. 021/604-662), situated upstairs in a small shopping mall called Excelsior in the downtown area.

For something trendier and more upscale, you have to go to Villa Morra and its various glitzy shopping malls. Kamastro, Paseo Carmelitas, Avenida España and Senador Long (tel. 021/615-041), is an interesting art-house bar with psychedelic guitars and naked body prints on the walls. Close by, you'll find Kilkenny Irish Pub, Malutin and Avenida España (tel. 021/672-768; www.kilkenny.com.py). Across the road, in a smaller mall, is Hooters, Avenida España and Romulo Feliciangeli (tel. 021/665-215), an American-based chain boasting cold beers and tasty chicken wings. Some of the best nightclubs are on the city outskirts. Faces, Mcal López 2585 (tel. 021/672-768), and Coyote, Sucre 1655 (tel. 021/662-816; www.coyote.com.py), are the biggest and best known. Canvas, Shopping del Sol ((tel. 021/622-875), is a slick and happening nightspot with five dance floors pumping out electronica and bossa nova. The high-tech restaurant is worth a visit just to experience the touch-screen menus on each table.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.