The safest course in Aswan is to keep it simple and stick to the fish. Don't expect to get a great steak or world-class tempura here, but do demand good-quality fresh Nile fish. Most of the big hotels here serve food that ranges from disappointing to overpriced. The exception is the Mövenpick; the restaurant has been completely renovated and hopefully that means better food. The Cleopatra Café, a few blocks south of the train station on Souk Street, is a great place to hang out and drink tea, smoke shisha, and people-watch.

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