Shopping

Atlanta is the shopping mecca of the Southeast. Period. Visitors might say they come to Atlanta to steep themselves in Southern history, take in a play or two, or contemplate the masterpieces in a museum. But what they really want to do is trot on over to Buckhead for a little retail therapy.

It's not just that there's a lot of shopping here; it's that it's so varied. There are chic boutiques that can hold their own with the best of Los Angeles or New York, flea markets bursting at the seams with antiques and collectibles, giant department stores, and interesting little browsable areas such as Virginia-Highland. And even if you don't want to buy anything, it's great fun to wander around the shopping areas, checking out the locals and taking the pulse of the city.

Antiques/Flea Markets

Atlanta is home to several permanent flea markets selling everything from custom furniture to antique toys, but the most exciting markets are those that set up shop once a month. The lineup of dealers -- from all parts of the country -- is ever-changing, so no matter how often you go, you'll always see something new and fresh.

If you're in search of real finds, shop on the first day as soon as the market opens -- that's when local dealers swoop in to snatch up the best merchandise. Serious bargaining often takes place in the closing hours of the last day, when many dealers are anxious to avoid lugging their wares home with them. Be sure to keep your admission ticket; it's good for the whole weekend.

Bookstores

In addition to the independent bookstores in Atlanta, the nationwide chains of Barnes & Noble, B. Dalton, Borders, Doubleday, and Waldenbooks are all represented locally. The main Barnes & Noble, 2900 Peachtree Rd. (tel. 404/261-7747; MARTA: Lenox), can be found in Buckhead, just a few minutes south of Lenox Square. The main Borders, 3637 Peachtree Rd. (tel. 404/237-0707; MARTA: Lenox), is also in Buckhead, 3 blocks north of Lenox Square.

I Scream for Ice Cream

If you happen to be at the north end of the Virginia-Highland shopping district in the afternoon or evening, stop in for a divine gelato or sorbet at What's the Scoop, 1402 N. Highland Ave. It's open Sunday through Wednesday from noon to 10pm, Thursday from noon to 11pm, and Friday and Saturday from noon to midnight. If you find yourself in Decatur, check out the equally delicious Cold Stone Creamery, 1579 N. Decatur Rd. NE. Only your imagination can limit the flavors here, as you get to choose your ice-cream flavor as well as dozens of delicacies that are mixed in on a cold marble slab (hence the name). If you're not feeling creative, choose from the shop's own combinations, including Chocolate Devotion, Birthday Cake Remix, and Cookie Minster. Open daily from 11am to 11pm.

A Little Bit of Italy in Atlanta

A local chef's love of all things Italian has resulted in one of the country's hottest gourmet food lines. Bella Cucina Artful Food offers handmade pesto -- one of which is highly regarded by none other than Oprah Winfrey -- and fresh pasta sauces, coarse-grain and honey mustards, and fruit preserves prepared with farm produce and beautifully packaged right here in Hotlanta. Now you can buy the stuff at the company's retail store, Bella Cucina, 1050 North Highland Ave. (tel. 404/347-6476; www.bellacucina.com; MARTA: Civic Center).

Fresh Market Fare

If your idea of fun is watching other people cook for you, stop in at the Morningside Farmers' Market on a Saturday morning. Each week at 9:30am, one of the city's top chefs gives a free cooking demonstration, and the lucky audience gets to sample the results. Afterward, browse the market, a small but beautiful array of organic, locally grown vegetables, fruits, herbs, and flowers. There are also handmade soaps, beeswax candles, primitive furniture, beaded jewelry, and other assorted artisanal items. The market, at 1393 N. Highland Ave., is open on Saturdays late April through December from 8 to 11:30am. Call tel. 404/313-5784 for details.