Getting There -- The quickest way to get here is to fly to Aurangabad's airport (in Chikalthana, Jalna Rd., just 10km/6 1/4 miles from the city center) with Jet Airways (tel. 022/3989 3333 or 1-800/225-522 in Mumbai, 0240/244-1392 in Aurangabad). The flight from Mumbai lasts 45 minutes to an hour and costs around Rs 3,500 ($85/£43). You can also try Indian (tel. 022/2202-3031 or 1-800/180-1407). For a cheaper and fairly comfortable journey, book an air-conditioned chair car seat (Rs 369/$9/£5) on the Tapovan Express train that leaves Mumbai's VT/CST Station at 6:10am and reaches Aurangabad at 1:30pm. An alternative is the Devagiri Express, an overnight train that reaches Aurangabad at an inconvenient 4:10am (second-class air-conditioned sleeper berth Rs 654/$16/£8).
Visitor Information -- You'll find a tourist information booth at the airport arrivals hall, where you can pick up brochures on Aurangabad, Ajanta, and Ellora. The India Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC) office at Krishna Villa, on Station Road (tel. 0240/233-1217 or 0240/236-4999; Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 8:30am-2pm), is where you can get tourism-related information and book a private guide for the caves, although it's cheaper to pick one up at the caves themselves. The state tourist office in the MTDC Holiday Resort (Station Rd., Aurangabad 431 001; tel. 0240/233-1143; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; daily 7am-1pm and 3-8pm) operates tourist buses to Ajanta (Rs 270/$6/£3) and Ellora (Rs 170/$4/£2).
Getting Around -- Taxis and auto-rickshaws are widely available in Aurangabad, and you'll be approached at the airport by the usual touts offering you a "good deal." Though the scamsters and touts here are far less aggressive or annoying than those you encounter farther north, always arrange the fare upfront; a taxi from the airport into the city should cost about Rs 250 ($61/£31). Classic Tours and Travels (at the MTDC Holiday Resort; tel. 0240/233-7788 or -5598; contact@classicservices.in) lives up to its name, and will arrange just about any type of transport for travel within Aurangabad and environs (count on around Rs 2,000/$49/£25) for a full day with a car and driver; less if you're only going to Ellora), and beyond. All hotels have travel desks that will organize a car with a guide for any of the sights in the area.
Ajanta Travel Advisory -- The drive from Aurangabad to Ajanta takes between 2 and 3 hours, so you're advised to set off early in the day to avoid as much of the midday heat as possible. There are two ways of getting to the caves. Generally, visitors are dropped off in the public parking lot, several kilometers from the caves themselves; here you'll find stalls selling awful souvenirs, snacks, and tourist paraphernalia, and "guides" flogging their services. You'll also find green, eco-friendly buses that are the only vehicles allowed in the vicinity of the caves. Purchase a ticket (Rs 30/$1/£1) and hop aboard for the short drive to the Ajanta ticket office.
A far more rigorous but rewarding alternative is to have your driver drop you at the "Viewpoint," reached via a turnoff some distance before the official parking facility. From here you can take in a panoramic view of the site across the river, then make your way down the rather difficult pathway (don't attempt this route if you're unsteady on your feet) and eventually to a footbridge that spans the Waghora River. Make for the ticket booth and proceed to the caves. Be sure to arrange to have your driver collect you from the parking lot when you're done.
Ellora Travel Advisory -- These caves are only 30km (19 miles) from Aurangabad, but you should rent a car and driver for the day for transfers between certain caves. Starting at Cave 1, visit as many of the principal caves (don't miss Cave 10) as you have time for, until you reach Cave 16, where you should arrange for your driver to pick you up and then drive you to Cave 21, which is worth investigating. Having seen this cave, again have your driver take you to Cave 29, located alongside a waterfall, reachable via a rather dangerous pathway. Another short drive will take you to the Jain Group of temples, of which Cave 32 is the best example.
Be warned that Ellora is enormously popular -- especially during weekends and school vacations. Time your visit accordingly, or get here as soon as it opens, preferably not on a weekend. Ellora can be explored independently or with a guide (who may or may not understand English and who may sound like a recorded message); currently, the official rate is Rs 450 ($12/£6) for the first 4 hours, or -- if you're really enthusiastic -- Rs 600 ($15/£7) for up to 8 hours.
