A rising and falling land of rivers, lakes, springs, and caverns, the Hill Country is one of Texas's prettiest regions -- especially in early spring, when wildflowers daub it with every pigment in nature's palette. Dotted with old dance halls, country stores, and quaint Teutonic towns -- more than 30,000 Germans emigrated to Texas during the great land-grant years of the Republic -- and birthplace to one of the U.S.'s most colorful presidents, the region also lays out an appealing mosaic of the state's history.
San Antonio lies at the southern edge of the Hill Country; Austin at its eastern edge. The interstate highway I-35 that runs between these two cities parallels a geological feature called the Balcones Escarpment, which is a fault zone that was created when the Edwards Plateau, a thick shelf of limestone, was gently pushed up about 1,500 feet above the coastal plains. This plateau extends for hundreds of miles north and west of San Antonio and Austin; the part closest to these cities is called the Hill Country. The extra elevation makes the climate a little milder, and the water pouring through the limestone creates an abundance of natural springs (and lots of caverns and caves, too).
In the 19th century, these features attracted many German and Czech settlers who were fleeing the social upheavals in Europe. They established small towns that now dot the area and add a little contrast to the prevailing cowboy culture. The mild climate, rolling hills, and abundant springs continue to attract visitors to this part of the state, with summer camps, guest ranches, and resorts serving a public that comes here to enjoy the outdoors.
The following tour traces a roughly circular route from San Antonio. (It's only 80 miles between the two cities.) Distances in this area are sufficiently short that you can design excursions based on your point of origin and your particular interests.
Note: Driving in the Hill Country can be a delight, but the speed limit on some roads is 70 mph. If you want to enjoy the scenery, move onto the nice, wide shoulders provided for slower drivers and let others pass. It's considered part of Texas road courtesy.
The highlights of the Texas Hill Country are covered here, but those with extra time will find far more to explore. For additional information about the area, contact the Texas Hill Country Visitor Center, 803 W. Hwy. 281 S., Johnson City, TX 78636 (tel. 830/868-5700; www.hillcountryinfo.com). The Heart of Texas Wildlife Trail West map, which details loop routes covering a variety of the region's natural attractions, is available free at most Hill Country town visitor centers. You can also order the map in advance for $3 by logging on to http://tcebookstore.org or by calling tel. 888/900-2577.
