What's New

The land Down Under continues to change in exciting ways. Travelers have new possibilities for getting to and around the country, and a greater choice of things to do once they are here.

Planning Your Trip and Getting Around -- Tougher competition in the Australian skies has been a boon for travelers, with lower fares and more choice on routes.

Domestic airlines Virgin Blue (tel. 13 67 89 in Australia, or 07/3295 2296; www.virginblue.com.au) and Qantas subsidiary Jetstar (tel. 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) have been challenged by Singapore-based budget airline Tiger Airways (tel. 03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com), which has launched domestic routes out of Melbourne in addition to flights from Singapore to Perth and Darwin. At press time, flights were only operating from Melbourne to Darwin, Perth, Alice Springs, Canberra, Adelaide, Newcastle, Launceston, and Hobart in Tasmania, and the Queensland coastal ports of Mackay, Rockhampton, Sunshine Coast, and Gold Coast. But it is likely the network will have expanded even more before you arrive.

For those who prefer their travel at ground level, Great Southern Railway's Overland train has been refurbished and relaunched, with greater levels of comfort for its thrice-weekly daylight service between Adelaide and Melbourne.

Sydney -- For an Aboriginal perspective of the waterways off Cronulla, a surfside suburb in Sydney's south, step aboard the Djeebahn, which departs Cronulla wharf daily at 9am. The custom-built vessel, operated by Cronulla Cruises (tel. 02/9544 1400; www.cronullacruises.com) takes visitors into the waters of the Rainbow Serpent, belonging to the Dharawal Aboriginal people. The 4 1/2-hour tour includes morning tea, lunch, and afternoon tea. Upon boarding, visitors receive a "welcome to country," with a traditional smoking ceremony by Uncle Max from the Buddgeti tribe. You hear stories about the first European settlers to the area and meet up with a local anthropologist and archaeologist. You'll also learn about the unique ecology of the Port Hacking River system, enjoy informative talks on the area's native plants and wildlife, view Aboriginal shell middens that were formed over thousands of years, meet Aboriginal dancers, and see various Aboriginal artifacts in and around the Royal National Park.

Brisbane -- One of Brisbane's best-value accommodations, Hotel George Williams (tel. 1800/064 858 in Australia, or 07/3308 0700; www.hgw.com.au) has added 25 new rooms.

New owners have transformed B&B One Thornbury (tel. 07/3839 5334; www.onethornbury.com) in the Brisbane inner-city suburb of Spring Hill, with a chic new decor. Everything has been refurbished and renewed in the past year, right down to the mattresses and new bathrooms for each room.

Queensland -- Fitzroy Island Resort (www.fitzroyisland.com.au), which closed in early 2006 for a A$10 million plus (US$8 million/£4 million) redevelopment, had not reopened by press time. The renovation will take it upmarket, with the addition of 48 new two-bedroom apartments, a spa, a bar and restaurant, a dive shop, a general store, conference rooms, and other amenities. Despite delays to the original reopening timetable, the resort was scheduled to reopen in July 2008. Check the website for updates.

Peppers Blue on Blue, at Nelly Bay on Magnetic Island (tel. 07/4758 2400; www.peppers.com.au) is one of a smart new breed of developments on the island, just off Townsville. It has a choice of hotel rooms, suites, and two- and three-bedroom apartments with views of the waterfront, marina, and mountains.

The new Ngaro Sea Trail in the Whitsundays is one of four new Great Walks of Queensland (www.epa.qld.gov.au/greatwalks), due to open in 2009 and 2010. The walk links sea routes with walks on Hook, Whitsunday, and South Molle islands.

Paradise Bay Eco Escape, on Long Island in the Whitsundays (formerly South Long Island Nature Lodge; tel. 07/4946 9777; www.paradisebay.com.au), has a new owner and a new name. The lodge's 10 cabins and all its public areas have been refurbished, and you'll now find the walls hung with Aboriginal art from new owner Peter Spann's private collection.

On Hamilton Island, the new ultraluxe qualia (tel. 07/4946 9999; www.qualia.com.au) is an exclusive, adults-only retreat area on the northern part of the island, with 60 one-bedroom pavilions, each with a private plunge pool.

On Great Keppel Island, the island's major resort has closed its doors for a complete rebuild. Construction of a new luxury version of the resort was not expected to start at least until early 2009.

In the Gold Coast hinterland, mountain resorts O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat (tel. 1800/688 722 in Australia, or 07/5502 4911; www.oreillys.com.au) and Binna Burra Mountain Lodge (tel. 1800/074 260 in Australia, or 07/5533 3622; www.binnaburralodge.com.au) have both added day spas to their range of activities and facilities. The latest accommodation choice at O'Reilly's is a range of 48 new one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas a short distance from the guesthouse complex.

Mission Beach's major resort, The Horizon, has re-opened after a major facelift and has been renamed The Elandra Mission Beach (tel 1800/079 090 in Australia, or 07/4068 8154; www.elandraresorts.com).

Melbourne -- If you suffer from vertigo, Melbourne's newest attraction may not be for you. The Southern Star Observation Wheel (tel. 03/8628 6000; www.thesouthernstar.com.au), scheduled for completion by December 2008, is a A$40 million (US$36 million/£18 million) giant Ferris wheel similar to the London Eye. It is 100m (328 ft.) in diameter and about 38 stories high, with enclosed glass cabins to ride in -- magnificent views assured. At press time, prices for the 30-minute ride had not been set.

Sports fans are flocking to the new National Sports Museum (tel. 03/9657 8879; www.nsm.org.au), housed within the Melbourne Cricket Ground. It covers a range of sports, including Australian football, basketball, boxing, cricket (including the Australian Cricket Hall of Fame), cycling, golf, hockey, netball, Olympic and Paralympic games, rugby union, rugby league, soccer, and tennis. You can see Australia's first-ever Olympic gold medal and Ian Thorpe's swimsuit.

The Old Melbourne Gaol's new Crime & Justice Experience (tel. 03/9663 7228; www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au) is an interesting way to spend a few hours. The "experience" includes touring the historic old prison (the scene of 135 hangings), and then moving on to the former City Watch House to find out firsthand what it might have been like to spend time here (including getting locked up temporarily, if you're game). On Sunday afternoons, you can also visit the adjacent former Magistrate's Court and take part in a reenactment of a real-life court case.

For those heading out of town on a day or overnight trip to see Phillip Island's fairy penguins, another new attraction is worth a stop: At the end of the Summerland Peninsula is an interesting rock formation called the Nobbies, home to thousands of nesting silver gulls and an island colony of Australian fur seals. The new Nobbies Centre (tel. 03/5951 2816; www.nobbiescentre.org.au) is a marine interpretive center with information about the wildlife, binoculars for better viewing, and a cafe. Entry is free.

Melbourne's grandest hotel, the Windsor (tel. 1800/033 100 in Australia, or 03/9633 6000; www.thewindsor.com.au), has begun a A$45 million (US$40 million/£20 million) refurbishment which is likely to still be underway in early 2009. The extensive facelift will involve renovation of all guest rooms, the entrance, and the lobby; the creation of a new bar and lounge area; and reactivation of the hotel's heritage elevators. Some things won't change: High tea will continue to be served each afternoon, as it has been for more than 100 years.

Victoria -- Steinfeld's is a new accommodation complex at the top of Sovereign Hill's Main Street, so visitors can stay in the heart of the recreated goldfields town. The building, formerly a furniture warehouse, has been transformed to create four guest rooms across the front of the building; and the large lounge room has views down Main Street. Steinfeld's is booked through Sovereign Hill Lodge (tel. 03/5333 3409; www.sovereignhill.com.au). Rates start at A$135 (US$122/£61) per double.

Mungo Lodge (tel. 03/5029 7297; fax 03/5029 7296; www.mungolodge.com.au) was scheduled to reopen in mid-2008 after a multimillion-dollar redevelopment, now offering 16 air-conditioned cabins and 2 self-contained cottages. Opening rates have been set between A$240 and A$270 (US$216-US$243/£108-£122) double, with an extra-person charge of A$60 (US$54/£27). There is also a casual restaurant.

Top End -- Peregrine Adventures (tel. 1300/854 500; www.peregrineadventures.com) has introduced a range of small-group environmentally and culturally sensitive holidays in the Top End. They include the rarely walked 7-day Dreaming Place Trek, from the remote community of Manyallaluk, across savannah woodlands through the Katherine River Valley and into Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge.

The Red Centre -- Ayers Rock Resort's Sails in the Desert hotel (tel. 08/8957 7888; www.ayersrockresort.com.au) is home to Yulara's first day spa. The A$1.8 million (US$1.6 million/£800,000) spa has four therapy rooms offering a range of "wet" and "dry" treatments and therapies.

Canberra -- Previously housed in Old Parliament House, with just enough room to display 100 works, the National Portrait Gallery (tel. 02/6270 82363; www.portrait.gov.au) will move to a brand-new purpose-built gallery at the end of 2008 that will have space for a permanent display of 500 portraits of people who have shaped Australia.

Also new in Canberra is the city's second five-star hotel, the Realm (tel. 02/6163 1800), offering some much-needed luxury rooms to the area around Parliament House.

Perth & Western Australia -- Perth's suburban railway network has grown with the opening of a fifth line, running through the city's southern suburbs and Rockingham to the resort town of Mandurah. This has necessitated the building of the new underground William Street Station with walkways linking it to the main Perth Central Station.

Perth has a new tour, which provides excellent background information on its Aboriginal heritage. The Kings Park Indigenous Heritage Tour (tel. 08/9483 1111) provides a walk through the park and a lesson on some of the traditional uses of the land and the local mythology.

Kununurra, in the Kimberley, has a new hotel, the four-star Kimberley Grande (tel. 08/9166 5600; www.thekimberleygrande.com.au). It brings a needed touch of class to this remote but increasingly important tourist outpost.

Malcolm Douglas is renowned for his films about Australia's tropical north, and the wildlife that inhabits these regions. He has now opened the Malcolm Douglas Wildlife Wilderness Park (tel. 08/9193 6580; www.malcolmdouglas.com.au). Situated about 18km (11 miles) out of Broome in the Kimberley, it is a showcase for many of Australia's animals, reptiles, and birds, and is also part wildlife refuge. Crocs are a major feature, with entry through the massive and lifelike jaws of an enormous simulated crocodile head and two large lakes stocked with some 200 of them. There are also superb examples of dingoes, kangaroos, and wallabies.

The Ningaloo Reef Retreat, just meters from the Indian Ocean coral reef, is being revamped, upgraded, and renamed in 2008. Sal Salis (tel. 02/9571 6399; www.salsalis.com.au) will offer "wild bush luxury," with a resident chef and open bar, but will retain the essential tranquillity and environmentally friendly nature of the place.

Tasmania -- The opening of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), at Moorilla Estate (tel. 03/6277 9900; www.moorilla.com.au or www.mona.net.au), just outside Hobart, is scheduled for late 2009. MONA's collection ranges from Egypt and the rest of Africa through Mesopotamia to Mesoamerica and dips into other ancient cultures. It will also show contemporary Australian, British, and American art.