Off the Beaten Track

A Few Days in Margaret River, WA

Getting to see more of Australia than its most famous icons and the east-coast beaches is not always easy. But if you have the time, there are many wonderful places to discover off the beaten track, which will give another dimension to your image and memories of Australia. Here, we suggest a few days in the Margaret River region, just a few hours' drive south of the Western Australia capital, Perth. You can add it on to the end of a week or so in the east, or change it with the latter part of the 1- or 2-week itineraries above.

Note that each year from August to mid-November, the southern half of Western Australia is blessed with a carpet of 12,000 species of white, yellow, mauve, pink, red, and blue wildflowers. Wildflower shows and festivals in country towns throughout the state accompany the annual blossoming. September and October are the peak months.

Starting from the pleasant, sunny city of Perth, you can tailor your trek to take in some great beaches and surfing, winery tours, excellent food and wine, and the chance to see kangaroos, whales, and dolphins.

Day 1: Welcome to Perth

The capital of Western Australia, Perth, has a superb climate, a great setting on the Swan River, a fabulous outdoor life of biking and beaches, excellent restaurants, and a beautiful historic port, Fremantle. If you'd like to spend a day or so recovering from jet lag as well as getting to know the city, you can overnight here before taking off on your exploration of WA. A relaxing way to spend the day is at the port of Fremantle, about 19km (12 miles) southwest of Perth's CBD at the mouth of the Swan River.

"Freo" is a bustling district of 150 National Trust buildings, alfresco cafes, museums, galleries, pubs, markets, and shops in a masterfully preserved historical atmosphere. It's still a working port, so you will see container ships and fishing boats unloading, and yachts gliding in and out of the harbor. It's a favorite destination for Perth's population every weekend, resulting in a wonderful hubbub of shoppers, merchants, cappuccino drinkers, tourists, and fishermen. You can enjoy the parade as you knock back a beer or two on the veranda of a gorgeous old pub.

Day 2: Perth to Margaret River

A leisurely 4-hour drive southwest from Perth will put you on the edge of the vineyards of Margaret River, one of Australia's finest and most scenic wine regions. En route, stop off at the town of Bunbury, where you may be lucky enough to see the wild dolphins, which regularly come in to "play" with visitors. The area is really compact, so you can make your base at any of the numerous boutique lodges or B&Bs. You can then readily take your choice from around 80 wineries, as well as numerous art and craft galleries and the many gourmet produce outlets. Eat out at one of the excellent local restaurants -- perhaps try one of the local specialties, marron (a freshwater crustacean), or venison, with a bottle of Margaret River wine.

Day 3: South to Cape Leeuwin

Spend the day traveling the winding country roads of the southwest "hook" of Western Australia. Prevelly, west of Margaret River, has some of Australia's best surfing. Follow Caves Road south from here to Augusta and the historic lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin, where the Indian and Southern oceans meet. Augusta is one of the best places in the south to see migrating whales (both humpback and southern right) in season -- with tours available. Your trip will take you through stands of massive karri and jarrah trees. Don't miss Boranup Drive, a scenic detour that cuts through a magnificent karri forest. For the adventurous, there is a maze of caves, some of which are open to the public. Have lunch at one of the winery restaurants or picnic in their lovely gardens. Wind your way back to your accommodations, with the car stocked with some newly favorite wines to drink or take home, as well as local cheeses, olive oil, and perhaps some craft work. Remember to designate a driver before setting out if you are planning to taste several wines; Australia's drunk-driving laws are strictly enforced and carry heavy penalties.

Day 4: North to Cape Naturaliste & Perth

The area north of Margaret River town has the biggest concentration of wineries including some of Australia's big names, as well as the Margaret River Chocolate Company. Caves Road runs north from here heading for Dunsborough and Cape Naturaliste. Don't hurry along the tree-lined country roads and take time to explore some of the local galleries and enjoy the scenery. At Yallingup, you will swing northeast for Dunsborough, where -- between September and November -- you can do more whale-watching. Another stop on your way back to Perth should be at the seaside town of Busselton, where a visit to the underwater observatory on at the end of the longest timber jetty in the Southern Hemisphere is well worthwhile.