45km (28 miles) NE of Jaén
Historic Baeza (known to the Romans as Vilvatia), with its Gothic and Plateresque buildings and cobblestone streets, is one of the best-preserved old towns in Spain. At twilight, when lanterns hanging from walls of plastered stone light the narrow streets, you might feel you've stumbled back into the 15th century. The town's heyday was in the 16th and 17th centuries. Even if you don't go inside many specific monuments -- and, indeed, many of the most charming buildings aren't open to the public -- you can still get a good idea of the architecture by strolling through the barrio monumental and admiring the old buildings.